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Ultimate--Paddle Jaak Hack wiring kit!

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121K views 713 replies 148 participants last post by  shpunt  
#1 · (Edited)
I have volunteered my services to the cause.

I am writing this to try and clear up some of the confusion:

This is what the board does, it gives you the lockout to the shifter. Think of this; the shifter is made where only + or - is selected mechanically never can they both be selected at the same time. The board mimics this mechanical action. The Line-Lock was an after thought and added. The board can be populated with or without the line lock parts. Line lock locks the front wheels, you will need a line lock solenoid also; I don't sell this.

What you get from me is the harness from the 2 pin connector at the clock spring, this has flying leads and is crimped with the pins inserted into the connector. You get the T tapped ground wire for the paddles to the Lin Bus Ground. You get the harness with crimped pins for the 14 pin connector at the column. Also you get all the harnesses to connect the circuit board and the adpter board for the manual shifter.

Now if you get the board the other end will have a connector to plug into the board. The board will have a 4 pin connector that will accept the plug from the 4 pin black connector at the ESM (on the shifter). There is also a harness from the board that plugs into where this black plug was. You will also need to splice the 12v connection.

So the main difference for people with Paddles and not Buttons is you will have to cut off the plugs and butt solder and heat shrink (heat shrink included) to the 2 pin harness for both the paddles (blue and yellow) and the tapped ground lead. Then solder to the Lin Bus ground a tapped connection. This is what is needed in the Steering wheel.

Now you will have to remove the SCM on the column by the instructions and the service manual. This will reveal the 14 pin plug, you will insert the 2 pins that are crimped on the harness into the plug assembly in the instructions. Now run this cable to the shifter.

Now with the board no Vampire connectors will be used, this wire is very small on the shifter. You will need 12v switched accessory, the red wire on the ESM (shifter) 6 pin plug this is below the 4 pin that you plugged into the board (this is the +/- switch from the shifter), is the accessory 12v. This will be soldered in a tapped configuration. I will be doing mine this weekend and will be taking a lot of pictures. Unfortunately I already did the steering wheel, but I may take the air bag off to take some pictures there also.

I hope this helps

Raymond

Remember this is only good for the 2005-2007 LX models

The units will be built with Blue and Yellow wire.

I have my own UPS number so I can ship anywhere without hassle, which I prefer for tracking purposes.

Or ship by USPS if not the lower 48

Still available

Cost: $100.00 Relay lockout and harness (Steering harness and plug and play 99%-splicing only at the 12v and steering wheel)

Still available
Cost: $175.00 for the relay board with Line-Lock, harness, enable switch, and solenoid relay, harnesses and fuse. Deluxe Harness wiring all the way to the relay in the engine compartment

These will be in a plastic box to put in the console area. This is being done at cost plus a little for my time to assemble the boards and Harnesses.

The above kits do not include shipping, I need your real ship to address. UPS will not deliver to a PO Box. The only exception will be Canada, these will be priority international shipment. This is the best, or standard parcel post to Canada.

Also include your real email address.

Shipping will be as listed below:

USPS To the lower 48 states $10.00
USPS Priority mail to Canada $28.00
Alaska Hawaii USPS Priority Mail $23.00
Express Mail to Canada (includes tracking) $39.00
USPS Priority Mail to Australia $35.00

Yes I have paypal and will accept

Here we go:

My paypal is:

raymond@wlsmithelectronics.com

Then send Funds

Please put in the comments or notes what you are wanting plus your screen name! Also your real email address.

I need your complete address please. Canada if the address is differant than the paypal please include in the Paypal comments.

http://www.wlsmithelectronics.com/page2.php

You can download the files from here ^^^^

Also you can order from my site also

http://www.wlsmithelectronics.com/page19.php
 
#430 · (Edited)
Looks like another recap write-up is coming your way!

The short answer is that this wiring kit is used to install a set of paddle shifters onto your steering wheel, which act the same as the auto-stick lever. You have one paddle for upshift and one for downshift. They operate exactly like your shift lever, once the transmission is in Drive.

The combination of these three fellas coming together really made this whole thing do-able.

Anthony (atwong1) found a source for these paddles, when nobody else could find them in quantity, at least not for a good price.

Jim (jaak) discovered the spare contacts in the clockspring, which made it so you no longer needed the receiver/transmitter.

Raymond (plcman) made the harnesses plug-and-play, and incorporated a line-lock option.

EDIT: quoting myself from a post on another forum, here's the quick recap:

Here's the paddle install write-up thread (which was done before the harnesses were available, and back when we thought these paddles were only good as alternatives for the ShiftHammer buttons - at the time you still needed the ShiftHammer transmitter/Receiver combo). It mostly still applies - it's how to install the paddles, not the wiring:
How to install the AMG Shift Paddles on our LX's

Here's where this thing broke WIDE OPEN. Jim (jaak) figured out that there were spare (unused) terminals inside the steering wheel, which allows you to pass two circuits through (one for each shift paddle) - and then wire it directly to the factory wiring harness - no transmitter necessary! All you need is some wire, essentially:
Direct Wired Paddle Shifters

Then Raymond (plcman) said, well, shoot - I'll do you one better - instead of tapping and splicing down there at the shifter mechanism, why not make it plug-and-play? All the connectors the factory uses are commonly available (if you know where to look), so let me rig up some harnesses:
Ultimate--Paddle Jaak Hack wiring kit!
It got even more creative and impressive, but you need to read that one yourself. Most of it's consolidated in the first post.

Here's the thread about the trouble with the '08 models:
URGENT: Please help atwong1 with ShiftHammer installation

You'll need to have this handy:
How to Remove/Change your Steering Wheel

Here's the current Group Buy for the paddles:
Ultimate Stealth Paddle for ShiftHammer Group Buy Round 3

And if you're interested, here's a package for sale:
Mercedes paddles and complete plcman circuit board with all options
 
#55 · (Edited)
plcman said:
...Thanks everyone!
Click to expand...
-
No, picman, the membership thanks YOU for giving generously of time and knowledge to provide a sound, and safe, critical component for the paddle mod. :thumbs_u::thumbs_u::thumbs_u:

All: 'Suggest you take the time to express your appreciation to picman by, at the very least, exercising the green bean award option.

Edited to add: For those not familiar with the process, simply left-click on the scales located in the upper right corner of any of your intended recipient's posts and follow the prompts.
 
#163 ·
Daddy... there is no pattern for those buttons for you to trace. Once you get the buttons, you can take a piece of cardboard and trace one out and then cut it. Then use your button for testing the fit... once you are happy with your cardboard piece... just place it on the wheel for placement and use a sharpie or something to draw it... then measure the distance from the side on the wheel to the sharpie mark and do that to the other side. You may want to place the button the wheel with with some black tape to hold it in place and then pick up the wheel and see how the paddles feel... are they to far away ... going towards the center of the wheel... or are they pushed out to far.... this may take a few mins to see it laid out but it is worth it.

This is just a few hints for you...
 
#510 ·
Sweet!!!!!!!!
 
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#30 ·
Please add me to the list as well.
I want to see the dealer service technicians trying to figure out why these wires aren't in his service manual.
 
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#58 ·
No monies will be accepted until I am ready to ship. I will update in the first post the mail to for money orders and paypal info. Also this is when I will take your address, when you pay.

I need to start getting a count of who is going to need the relay board. This will add a little time to the delivery but I think this is needed.
The boards will take 2 weeks to build and deliver to me. I then will stuff them with the the parts. I am ordering plenty of boards to get the price down.

First post has all the info.
 
#78 · (Edited)
Ok the board is done I will test the circuit tomorrow.
This unit will allow you to use your paddles to engage your line lock. Flip enable switch (mounted some where convenent). Foot on brake, press the down paddle, then press the up paddle at the same time. Release your foot from the brake, your line lock will hold the front brakes during your burnout. To release the line lock release the paddles, either or both. The line lock will release. Hold up paddle to engage drive. The line lock will not reengage until the enable switch is turned off then back on. (safety)
The unit will need an external relay to turn on the solenoid for the line lock. (Normal Bosch 12v 40 amp relay) The unit can be used with or without the line lock, same board, just install the enable switch and relay.
 
#82 ·
plcman said:
Foot on brake, press the down paddle, then press the up paddle at the same time. Release your foot from the brake, your line lock will hold the front brakes during your burnout.
Click to expand...
I haven't raced my car and don't normally do burnouts (unless it is with a rental), but aren't you suppose to do your burnout in 2nd?
So do you have to have the car in 3rd when you press the brake and hit the DOWN paddle? Is that even possible?

Joe
 
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#105 · (Edited)
And the best part is, you'd never get a PnP error like this!

Image


OK, good news and bad news on that fourth pin...

The good news is, no problem delivering the current, as it's wired up to the same connection as the solenoid that allows the transmission to be shifted out of Park, which draws around 480 mA current.

The bad news is, it's wired up to the same connection as the solenoid that allows the transmission to be shifted out of Park, it's a brake sense line, which may or may not be useful in the Line Lock logic, but isn't constant power.

Pin one (top pin - red wire) of the six pin connector is power. With pin two (black) being ground and that same brake connection at pin three.

Oh well... Such a shame!
 
#381 ·
I will have about 50 units available after this first round of shipping. Most of the delays are behind me, we are putting together kits so when someone orders all we have to do is put them in a box and ship. We are still behind about 20 harness's because of the relocation of the box.
I do not expect longer than a week delay right now.

Also when you paypal do not forget the shipping.
 
3
#414 ·
recived paddle shifters in apporx. 12 days

I ordered my shifters through Rockland Collision Center 2 months ago, thy ordered them from Germany $160 with shipping. Fax215 324-5233 att. Hugo maneger, 221 West Roosevelt Blvd. Philadelphia,PA 19120 :modding: Hugo might give a fast track to ordering your shiffters. tell him Al with the 300C AMG sent you. Buy the way all you in philie thy have a 1st class body shop. he painted my car painted trunk spoiler, shifters cost me $0 ,paint payed for by insurance claim :)
 
#466 ·
Why can't you?

It is easy!

There are a couple of guides to help you. I know I wrote 2. If I can do it, EVERYONE CAN!
 
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