Direct Wired Paddle Shifters

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

I'll follow up with details and connections, but here's some pictures to start.

Thanks to Anthony (atwong1) for sourcing the AMG paddles, as that motivated me to make this happen.

Ultimate Stealth ShiftHammer Group Buy - Lx Forums | Dodge Charger Challenger Magnum | SRT8 | Chrysler 300 Forum

And the current one... Ultimate Stealth Paddle for ShiftHammer Group Buy Round 2

This is a must read as well by Anthony in the knowledge base..

How to install the AMG Shift Paddles on our LX's

This write up by Mike also helps...

http://www.lxforums.com/board/f63/p...63/paddle-shifter-install-paddles-steering-wheel-connections-134753/index2.html

This is the clock spring removed from the steering column. You don't need to take it apart for this mod, but what this shows are the pins that go right through the SCM module and of those pins, two are not used.

If you look closely, you can see there's no contacts where those two pins enter this connector.

This is a close up of my '06 steering wheel. '05 - '07 are the same AFAIK. And there's the first thing I looked for, that caused me to pull the rest of it apart. Two unused contacts on the clock spring.

When the clock spring is assembled to the SCM, it's pins protrude through the SCM's connector shell.

This is the SCM (left) with the clock spring (right) put together, outside of the steering column.

Removing the connector is a bit tricky, to get to the back. It locks in place, and when unlocked, slides down out of the casting. I used a couple of tie wrap ends in behind the locks to release the connector and it's shell.

There's a bump on the side of the connector body that holds it in place inside the shell. Gently pry the shell up so it can slide off. (Yeah, I need to highlight it or put an arrow on or something...)

You can see the bump that locks the body in to the shell, a bit better here. Just look to the right of the white/orange wire.

The two empty spots next to the white and white/orange wires are where the unused clock spring contacts are. This where two new wires with contacts, will be inserted.

Here they are, inserted, the shell part the way on, and for mechanical support, I put on a tie wrap further down. Yes, I used speaker wire. LOL!

After that's all put back together, I did the connector for the other side of the clock spring. The connector shell I used had two guide tabs that I shaved off with a knife, so it would fit in the clock spring. It's a snug fit, so while nothing locks it in place, I'd be surprised if it ever came out on it's own. Note how one of the clock spring screws is backed out to stop it from turning. You do not want to lose the correct indexing of your clock spring!

Anthony drilled a hole for a screw to hold the shift paddles on (See his thread, I should link to it.) and also for the wires. I decided on a different path for the wires. This reamer I picked up from Princess Auto (Like Harbor Freight, but things cost twice as much) was perfect for creating hole for the wire.

I cut the holes for the paddles, smaller than the body of the paddle. The material is very flexible and stretches to fit. You can see the wire coming out the reamed hole.

Another angle of the same thing.... This is later on, after I've drilled the steering wheel and bolted in the paddle, then put the switches back in.

Automotive woody... Stand back and admire your work, then get right back at getting it done. You can see the wiring for both paddles done the same way.

Yes, it clears the signal stalk and cruise control, fine.... Hey, is a that an AMG or an SRT?

Yet another mod I won't notice in a month or so. But right now? I look at it and think.. Coool.... I know I'll miss it immediately when I drive another LX. They really should have built these cars with this!

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

I will post pictures and detail on the connections here. I just have a really busy week, so it may not happen until the weekend.

Basically I use the ground connection from the LIN bus for the steering wheel controls, which on my car is a red wire (Red for ground? Yeah strange). This is connected to the black wires on the paddle shifters. The remaining wires are connected to the two pin connector on the clock spring.

Out the back of the clock spring, those two wires are run to the console where the shifter is. On the shifter there is a three wire connection from the switches for the +/- shifting. The black is not connected, but the other two wires are connected to the wire from the paddles. Of course you'll want to wire them the right way around so that the paddles labelling of up and down, is correct.

I'll detail that as right now I don't recall which is which! Not a big deal if you get it backwards. Just switch them.

While I don't have my car right now, I do have some spare parts to help illustrate some more of this..

To remove the part around the shifter (bezel?), you need to remove the two screws at the front after removing the small mat below the ashtray.

Then with a pry tool, you can pop up one side of the bezel next to one of the circled areas, and then work up the rest of it to completely remove this.

Here's a view from underneath, you can see the points that clip in. This has the screws with the clips on them, which you should have already removed. (the screws that is... Don't touch the clips.)

The next fun challenge (I use needle nose pliers) is to carefully pull the wires out of the guide for the backlight.

Once they're out, you can then turn the bulb socket to remove it.

And get it out of the way...

Next thing is remove your shift knob, if you haven't already.

Now this is a bit tricky, but it does work. You have to feel for the tab that's under the red circle in this picture and push it in (towards the P) and up. It will pop up if you get it right.

You'll feel it pop up, but if you could see it from the side, this is what you would see. One of the four tabs released.

Once that's up, you should be able to work loose the other three and remove that from the shifter assembly.

Next is to remove the module that contains the swithes for the +/- shifting. The tab in the circle needs to be pressed down enough so the module will slide back.

Like so... It still has the wires attached... They run out the bottom towards the shifter assembly. (Shhhh... This one's missing them.)

The circled connector is where the wires plug in. You can't view it like this unless you remove the console. However on the right side of that connector is a tab and if you can gently hold the wires with needlenose pliers, you should be able to take a slot screwdriver and move the locking tab in enough to pull the connector out. Not the easiest if you don't understand it.

As tough as it might seem, it's then possible to remove the switch assembly and wiggle the connector through things to get the whole thing out.

Sorry, I still need pictures showing this. Much more to come.

Reference pictures for the curious.

Where the paddles connect is the four pin connector on this circuit board. Look at these for more than a second and you're a geek.

FlyByU · Jun 1, 2008

I love it.

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

Thanks Dan, I just went for a drive and so do I!!!

1fastsedan said:
Very nice! So, no shifthammer? or does this interface with the shifthammer?

No Shifthammer... Two paddles, connectors and wires.

Magnumb_SRT said:
VERY cool Jim! Assume this is your car?

Sure is!

BlazeHemi said:
It looks like a factory install :not_worth

So how much to have you install a set in my car??

Greg

You can't afford me. Heck, I can barely afford me!

Now I have to help my daughter with her school project, but I'll add words later.

1fastsedan · Jun 1, 2008

Very nice! So, no shifthammer? or does this interface with the shifthammer?

Magnumb_SRT · Jun 1, 2008

VERY cool Jim! Assume this is your car?

BlazeHemi · Jun 1, 2008

It looks like a factory install :not_worth

So how much to have you install a set in my car??

Greg

Bud · Jun 1, 2008

Very nice. I can't wait for further developments!!!

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

Bud said:
Very nice. I can't wait for further developments!!!

Stepped in for a couple of minutes, I'm not sure when I'll get to write this up. Hopefully tonight. I'm off to TX this week, so I don't know how much I'll be online...

RobAGD said:
Jaak that kicks much ass.....

So the wires and connectors are there for it already ? WOW

-Robert

Hey Rob, thanks...

It's weird, I stumbled across a diagram in the service manual about a year back, that suggested there were two unused connections in the clock spring. I even told a vendor here about it. But the idea of using it for paddles has always been in my mind, I just never saw paddles I wanted to use until Anthony started up his group buy for the Mercedes AMG paddles.

Fast56k said:
That simply rocks.

C.

Yes, it does.. It's fun!!! I want to go out for another drive!

RandomAccess said:
Jaak... You are amazing... it must have taken you a lot of time studying the wiring diagram to figure all this out... plus tearing the wheel apart!

Thanks. Amazing? Wow, that's a lot better than some other things I'm been called... LOL... As I mentioned, I suspected the connections were available, and buying the paddles motivated me to tear it apart and look.

There was a bit more luck involved which is nice. I picked up some standard 0.1 inch header bits and the contacts not only fit in the connector in the column, they lock in place, like the OEM ones. Sweet...

KGBPro said:
wow! :shock:

i want some!!!!!!

Yeah, that's the tough part. I won't be building any for anyone else, I barely had the time to do it for me! So unless you feel up to the task of doing it yourself, there's other solutions that might be easier.

Walt SRT8 said:
That is so cool..........Why didn't you discover this about $$$$$ say, 2 months ago. Good Job.

Yeah, well working for a living is a PITA, as it gets in the way of car modding!

MAGFX said:
Great job, Jaak. I think you just cost me some money (again), but all is real good.:rock:

Thanks Jonn... I'd say it's a mod that lives up to the class of your ride!

ZMagnum said:
That's very very cool jaak. I'm betting that he used some unused pins in the clock spring assembly. I doubt Chrysler had the connections specifically for paddle shifters already in place.

You got it. Now the part that sucks, if you have an '08, is there are no unused pins on the clock spring on the '08's as it's used for something else. However, someone might come up with something for them.

KGBPro said:
opcorn:

Need a beer with that? :friday:

fargo59 said:
daaaam jaak, now im going to have to see that sunday...

I kinda thought that might happen. Crap, that means I have to clean the interior and get out the winter floor mats finally.. LOL!

StPaulGuRu said:
I think you are right, because I could swear in one of the photos, it looks like he used speaker wire (11th pic).

Awesome work! That would be SOOOOO much fun! If I were to try a project like that though, I think I would have to buy a junked steering wheel first.

I bought a junked steering wheel for this. Damn friends, it's now on Token's car. LOL! It wasn't junky enough! I have to admit, it wasn't easy cutting in to my SRT8 wheel... But after the first side the second one was fine.

Yes, it's speaker wire. I was thinking, two conductors, gotta keep it tidy, what do I have then I started laughing and thought, wtf, just use it.

RobAGD · Jun 1, 2008

Jaak that kicks much ass.....

So the wires and connectors are there for it already ? WOW

-Robert

Fast56k · Jun 1, 2008

That simply rocks.

C.

RandomAccess · Jun 1, 2008

Jaak... You are amazing... it must have taken you a lot of time studying the wiring diagram to figure all this out... plus tearing the wheel apart!

KGBPro · Jun 1, 2008

wow! :shock:

i want some!!!!!!

SMKG HOT · Jun 1, 2008

Very Trick Jaak............

That is so cool..........Why didn't you discover this about $$$$$ say, 2 months ago. Good Job.

MAGFX · Jun 1, 2008

Great job, Jaak. I think you just cost me some money (again), but all is real good.:rock:

ZMagnum · Jun 1, 2008

That's very very cool jaak. I'm betting that he used some unused pins in the clock spring assembly. I doubt Chrysler had the connections specifically for paddle shifters already in place.

Dr. Bud · Jun 1, 2008

ZMagnum said:
That's very very cool jaak. I'm betting that he used some unused pins in the clock spring assembly. I doubt Chrysler had the connections specifically for paddle shifters already in place.

I think you are right, because I could swear in one of the photos, it looks like he used speaker wire (11th pic).

Awesome work! That would be SOOOOO much fun! If I were to try a project like that though, I think I would have to buy a junked steering wheel first.

KGBPro · Jun 1, 2008

opcorn:

Fargo59 · Jun 1, 2008

daaaam jaak, now im going to have to see that sunday...

Fargo59 · Jun 1, 2008

haha, good thing i have a spare R/T steering wheel now...

ZMagnum · Jun 1, 2008

You got it. Now the part that sucks, if you have an '08, is there are no unused pins on the clock spring on the '08's as it's used for something else. However, someone might come up with something for them.

What about the radio controls? I don't have them on my '08.

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

ZMagnum said:
What about the radio controls? I don't have them on my '08.

Very good question... Drive over here and I'll look for you. LOL!

You'll have a clock spring for the horn and airbag, so likely you'll have some open connections. But will they be LIN bus connections for the steering wheel buttons? Those don't go straight through.

mikespy · Jun 1, 2008

Very...Veryyy...Niceeee!!!!

Fargo59 · Jun 1, 2008

08 LX 5.7 steering column control module connector pinout

Module-steering Control – Black 14 Way Cav Circuit Function
1 R63 20lg/wt Driver Squib 2 Line 1
2 R61 20lg/vt Driver Squib 2 Line 2
3 R45 20lg/or Driver Squib 1 Line 1
4 R43 20lg/br Driver Squib 1 Line 2
5 - -
6 - -
7 - -
8 Z910 20bk/tn Ground
9 A913 20rd/gy Fused B(+)
10 D65 20wt/bk Can C Bus (+)
11 D64 20wt/lb Can C Bus (-)
12 D54 20wt Can B Bus (-)
13 D55 20wt/or Can B Bus (+)
14 - -

MattRobertson · Jun 1, 2008

Incredible. Just incredible in look and function, and ingenuity is off the charts. I don't understand how you connected it to the transmission though. I see you plugged the wires into a socket assembly, but how did you get the plugged-in wires to run thru to and command the tranny? Or were they set up to do that already? Seems like you already said they weren't.

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

MattRobertson said:
Incredible. Just incredible in look and function, and ingenuity is off the charts. I don't understand how you connected it to the transmission though. I see you plugged the wires into a socket assembly, but how did you get the plugged-in wires to run thru to and command the tranny? Or were they set up to do that already? Seems like you already said they weren't.

Matt, it's so simple it'll make you laugh...

I steal a ground off the LIN bus connection for the steering wheel controls, and run that to each switch. The other two wires I run to the unused clock spring connection.

Out the back end of the clock spring it mates in to the connector on the column, which is missing those contacts/wires, and I put those in place and run them to the shifter assembly, where there's a three conductor plug off the autostick switch and I tap in the two wires on the shift up/down off that.

So in effect, all I'm doing is paralleling the autostick's switches.

Now I have built a circuit with a couple of relays to force a shift up if both are pressed, and to mask the shifter from seeing both buttons being pushed, but I'm going to see how it runs without that, first.

So far I've seen that both buttons, results in a shift down (which personally, I don't like) and if you do it enough, the TCM will throw you back in to D and lock you out of autostick until the next restart. But so far, I've not seen this to be an issue as you have to be pretty deliberate with these buttons to push both. I purposely mounted them so they're reachable, but not in the way if you're not trying to shift.

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

Pins 5 & 6... Fargo.

Flanman · Jun 1, 2008

Very nice work Jim! Excellent write-up.

Jaak · Jun 1, 2008

Thanks I'll take the first one, and disagree with the second. But it'll get there.

ZMagnum said:
That would be cool. The heat might get to you this time of year though.

I'm going to TX for training, this week. Think that'll help?

Redfox0099 · Jun 1, 2008

wow, yeah what part of Tx?

Jaak · Jun 2, 2008

DFW... Down Tuesday morning, tortured with training Tuesday afternoon, and Wednesday and fly home Wednesday afternoon. Fargen Bastages wouldn't let me squeeze in another day for goofing off with friends.

hemiwagn said:
I'm lucky Jaak lives just a few miles from me.
He *thinks* he is going to TX Tuesday, but really it is just my clever plan to kidnap him to complete the mod on hemiwagn and our charger..... heh heh heh...

How much wire did you leave on the underdash part of the scm connector to reach the shifter switch? 4 ft? And you crimped the wire onto connector pins that fit into the SCM connector, right? (I realize you will be posting wiring details shortly....)

Gotta get the connector detail up....

Redfox0099 said:
So I get to use part of my Shift Hammer I have installed or I get to sell it????

Either one. You don't need the ShiftHammer with this. (Sorry Scott) But I still think the Shifthammer is the right solution for those that don't want to tear apart their column...

MattRobertson said:
Brilliant. You have totally outdone yourself with this mod. Beans to you. When you get it the way you'd like it, drop me a PM and I'll copy it into the Knowledge Base.

Hey thanks Matt, kind words well taken from a highly respected member (as are pretty well everyone that popped up in this thread... Blows me away.)

I do want to put together a complete walk through...

fnkychkn said:
i knew that big brain of yours would come in handy someday. :spock:
i've had those column hubs apart countles times and replaced at least a dozen of those docking connectors and never thought to look for extra circuits.
you are the master. all hail jaak! :not_worth

Really? Got any spare parts?

As always Pete, compliments from you, mean a lot.

Fast56k · Jun 1, 2008

I think we got a sticky thread starting up here.

C.

hemiwagn · Jun 1, 2008

I'm lucky Jaak lives just a few miles from me.
He *thinks* he is going to TX Tuesday, but really it is just my clever plan to kidnap him to complete the mod on hemiwagn and our charger..... heh heh heh...

How much wire did you leave on the underdash part of the scm connector to reach the shifter switch? 4 ft? And you crimped the wire onto connector pins that fit into the SCM connector, right? (I realize you will be posting wiring details shortly....)

Direct Wired Paddle Shifters

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