I say get the scan - the average rate for a update is around 1 full hour of labor, so it sounds about right.

Good luck trying to get them to correct a TSB for free, if it was a larger spread problem it may become a recall but I doubt it!

 

the update is covered under the 8/80 emmissions warranty. Have the service writer run the labor op code and verify it.

 

I am way out of warranty, I didn't get that deal, I'm up to 91K

 

i had that code on my car, and an egr code as well. i just erased the oil code and it never came back. i use a snapon model code retriever, it's not mine, my old boss walked me through it where i used to work at a local garage when i was younger. i would just erase the trouble codes and if it comes back deal with it , but you never know what type oil somebody else puts in your car.

 

So check this out.
I originally pulled the code on this myself and I went to see the parts guy at ALAN SAMUELS DODGE
in North Richland Hills, Texas.
The code said it was an oil pressure sensor failure, although my oil pressure seemed to be working fine.
They gave me the right part but told me it was in the wrong location.
I was told it was located by the oil filter when in fact it is on the front of the engine block
behind the belt, near the alternator.
Well when I went to have the part changed out at the local lube place they said it wasn't
the right part simply because they were looking at the wrong part.

When I went back to figure this out one of the service members offered to me that
the problem was a TSB bulletin that required a Starscan update.
I thought this was malarky but agreed to bring it in to get updated.
When they connected the computer they found that the software update was not
for my specific VIN number and would not load.
So they suggested to skip the update and simply replace the sensor anyway.

Then the guy says, "the starscan is usually $90 but I'll reduce it to $54"
What?
Why should I pay ANYTHING for bad advice followed by non-service?
I refused to pay.
Nothing was actually done, nothing was fixed and nothing new was offered.
After about 15 minutes of arguing he claimed that he was going to pay the bill
himself out of his own paycheck (which I refuse to believe).

The bottom line is that I was given nothing but bad information and bad advice with a
lack of research leading me into getting services I don't even need to milk me for rmoney!
At the end of the day nothing was repaired.

 

Here it is a year later and I finally replaced this sensor.
Had to remove the plastic belly pad, remove the altinator and finally got this thing switched out.
It was leaking oil like crazy!!
Once replaced, the engine light dissapeared and the MDS started working again.
I wish I had done this sooner!!!

 

:duh:
:mrgreen: :mrgreen::mrgreen:
:sosayweall:

 

HAHAHA!! You're a worse procrastinator than ME - LOL! A whole year's worth of MDS savings out the window. It'll be interesting to see if there's a change in fuel economy, since you're used to what you've had for the last year or so. Kudos for updating.

 

Yeah, changed the plugs today too and filled up with premium!
Heck, I even washed it!!!
I should be slipping through the air like an arrow now!!!

 

The wash has got to be worth a 1/2 mpg at least.

 

Figuring this thing out is like trying to unsnarl Medusa's hair. If you have the patience to read through this post, maybe you have some ideas.

Car is a 300C, 2008 with a tune. It was on the car when I bought it. (EVIC shows the pedal position of 102.)

In May is suddenly started some bucking and surging at highway speed. Taking off from a stop or under light throttle, it was bucking and missing like crazy and sputtered some at idle. Before I cold get to a shop, it started getting better! Better to the point it runs pretty good these days. However, it still seems to surge a bit under 40 mph or so and under heavy throttle will sometimes buck like a misfire at between 2,200 and 2,700 rpm, after the "misfire(s)" it take off like an old 4-bbl carb when the secondaries open. Sometimes is's sluggish coming off idle, other times it'll spill your coffee. However, it idles as smooth as glass but if I tickle the throttle at idle, it can run rough and has died once. WOT seems to perform fully.

Now, about codes. This morning I performed the key dance once again and there were no codes. Two days ago I got the P1521 for wrong oil. (New plugs after the problem started so it's not that.) I'm getting the P1521 on an intermittent basis, and yes, it's the right oil. When I power up but without starting the engine, the EVIC, shows 2 psi, buts sometimes it shows 0.

The MDS is intermittent and the CEL is lit but no codes - no, wait, I got an MDS fault when the MDS problem first occurred last year, but before I could take it in, the MDS started working and the CEL went out. As things stand now, the MDS will cut in-and-out on a random basis, but still no codes and when the MDS does kick-in it only stays engaged for a few seconds.

Most of my driving is urban/suburban and with no MDS it's 16.8-17.5 - about what it was when the MDS worked.

Oh, there are no oil leaks. At least none that I've seen.

Hope you guys and gals have some useful information to impart.

-Merlin-