I am looking to specifically factory ordering a Dodge Charger Scat Pack in the end of January or February depending on rebates I will be a $25,000 down payment while financing the rest through Chrysler capital for 60 months at either 0% or 1.9% max APR depending on the incentives at time of order. I have been saving up for this car for years with enough money left for bills and such which is why I am looking to get a great deal on the car.

I have no plans on buying used or leftover models, I am 100% sure on getting this car the way I want via order especially since I will be owning this car a long time and I dont want to settle on a few things here and there.
I am looking for advice ahead of time so when I do purchase the car, I will be in for no surprises and can get the best deal possible.

The car I am looking to purchase is a new Dodge Charger Scat Pack Cloth interior, Octane Red, Beats Audio Group, Driver Confidence Package, Red Calipers

I live in the NY metro area and most dealers do not have the car I want or are asking too much. I am willing to travel up to 300 miles to get the car I want in the configuration I want. My confusion lies in pricing.

I want to spend no more than 40K out the door for my future Scat Pack purchase. I have seen plenty are cars with similar configurations to mine and even more for the same price range so I know its possible.

How do I go about custom ordering a Scat Pack with the options listed and get the deal I am looking for? I know I will have to make a deposit and the best time to get a good deal is at the end of the month.

Do I lose negotiating power when not buying whats on the lot?

Since I wont be buying leather, does having cloth increase my chances of getting a good deal?

Will most dealers lock in the price for me even if rebates end by the time my car arrives?

What dealers within 300 miles of the NY/NJ metro area do you recommend will give me a good deal on a factory order and lock in the price (no bait and switch)?

Currently looking into Dulles and Koons Dodge in VA, has anybody dealt with them before?

Has anybody ordered their car in the end of January or February? If so how was the discounts and rebates?

Thanks for you input guys, I very much look forward to officially owning a Charger Scat Pack and being part of the Mopar community.

Sounds like you're NOVA/DMC region. I got my scat pack from Lindsay Dodge in Manassas. 7k under sticker for a factory order 392 Shaker with all the goodies. My sales person has moved on so I wouldn't know who to talk to now.

Buying a factory order is actually beneficial for everyone. The car is immediate profit and they get immediate holdback. No interest paid, no inventory taxes, no loss of real estate. The dealer loves it. You can still negotiate like any other car.

I'd recommend you buy the car at low interest and zero down and use that stack of cash to make my payments until it ran out. If you total that car anytime in the next several years (not unheard of for this car and not unheard of for any car in this area) you are not going to recoup that money.

Example: 40k car that you owe 15k on at day 1. A week later you wreck it and the insurance pays you what the car is worth (about 80% of msrp, or 35k). You get 35k, pay off your 15k note, and are left with 20k to go buy another one. Your week of ownership cost 5k.

Example 2: 40k car with zero down and GAP insurance for 700/month. Wreck it one week later and insurance pays you 35k and GAP covers remaining loan. You still have 25k in your pocket.

Lets say you don't wreck it, you take 400 bucks out of your 25k stash and combine it with the 300 you allocated each month and you make your car payment. At the end of your car note you have a car worth about 16k and you have 1k in cash from your stash. Or you take the car payment straight out of your stash and don't take a hit to your monthly budget for 35 months. Then you figure out how to swing a 700/month payment for 15 months or you refinance.

Let's say you have a major expense come up (lose your job, medical procedure, baby on the way, etc). If that 25k cleared you out, you might be putting your car up for sale.

You do what works for you, but I agree with the other folks here, it's not the best financial plan to throw tons of savings at a car to drive the monthly payment down into affordable territory...I may or may not have done that in my early 20s and it did not end well. Either pay for it all (if you're so loaded you don't notice the 40k dent) or finance it at low to no down and low interest and let your savings pay the note.

Good luck.

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A few notes on incentives/ordering/special financing:

1) Negotiate the price before you order, and get it in writing. This the price plus taxes and fees less incentives, as you can't take advantage of factory incentives/rebates until the time of delivery. Just because its 2000 off this month when you order doesn't mean you get 2000 off when the car shows up next month. Now the dealer can take money off whenever they want but they can't cash a factory rebate on a car that doesn't exist yet. Factory rebates are cash given to the dealer at time of sale from FCA (dealer makes money) where discounts are reductions in price offered by the dealer (dealer loses money).

2) You should sign your build sheet so it's agreed that the config on the sheet is what it should be on arrival. If you put down a deposit make sure it's refundable. Make sure it's listed as a sold order with your name on it instead of a dealer order; your build priority will go up and your name will get printed on the window sticker.

3) read the fine print on incentives. Sometimes they state that they are only applicable to on hand dealer stock (I.e. not a factory order). Regarding regional incentives, you get the rebates applicable to YOUR zip code, not the dealer (I.e. I didn't get the mid/Atlantic 500 hemi cash on my car registered in CT)

4) at the end of the day the dealer can charge as much or as little as you're willing to pay, so just because an incentive or financing deal isn't applicable, they can still hook you up ( it's just the dealer doing it instead of FCA corporate). If they want to make a sale, they'll make it happen.

5) dealers can only order off allocations. They can take your order all day long and submit it, but if they don't have an allocation, the car won't get built or ship until they have one (they sell what they have on hand). Big dealers like in VA have tons of allocations so it's no issue.

6) if the car isn't right when you inspect it, don't take delivery until it's fixed. If it's not configured right, get your deposit back and walk. An extra night in a hotel or a plane ticket home is cheaper than fixing/upgrading a car that's not right.

7) don't get any of the extended warranty/scotchguard/tire protection/nano whatever/protection packages. Waste of money. The dealers with huge markdowns often make their money back in the FI office.

8) line up your own financing. If your entire plan depends on super awesome corporate financing that you can't apply for until delivery, and it falls through due to timing or your credit not being on point, you might find yourself with a custom ordered car with YOUR name on the window sticker and no way to pay for it except a shady high interest and/or ultra long duration note. If the super awesome financing is approved, take it. If not, use your own financing. If you didn't sort out your finances, don't buy it.

9) you're custom ordering a car, which means you don't NEED this car. If you NEEDED a car you'd be scooping up a gently used Toyota Yaris today that would get you from point A to point B safely, reliably, and affordably, not planning to order a sports car in three months. That said, if somethings not right, walk away. Price goes up, walk. Cars not built the way you ordered, walk. Financing not right, walk. It's their problem to sell a factory order that didn't get delivered, not yours.

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25k down, willing to finance only 15k, whats with that. It would be silly to tie up that capital in a depreciating asset. If you talk to some of your dealers and let the phone do the walking you should find what you want. As it sits though. You could take your 25k right now, buy 2 bitcoin and wait until those 2 bitcoin can buy you a hellcat buy May. Just my 2 cents. :stir:

 

You could go to truecar.com and build the car you want there, some dealers will respond with a price and go from there. They'll probably try to sell you a car in stock but just tell them you want to order the car for the price they quoted or negotiate from there.

Can also get the prices of similar cars in stock on sale and tell them you want the same discount on an ordered car, as said, it's quick easy profit for them.

Rebates usually what's in effect at time of delivery or sometimes dealers will lock in current rebates, just make sure it's in the deal that if new rebates open up you get them. FCA is in a high inventory state right now so deals should be coming.

I ordered my last one December with February delivery, only bad thing is the salt and mud that gets all over your car.


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Never put money down on a depreciating asset! $0 down, finance the rest with OPM (other people's money). Invest your $25K. In 4 years, cash out the investment and pay off the remaining loan amount (if you want). I'd keep the investment rolling, but that's just me. Any of the strategies mentioned above work better than a large down payment.

 

Your going to have to fight with dealers to order, because they will want to sell what is on the lot.

About a year and a half ago when I ordered my scat, i visited several dealers in the south jersey area, just to get ignored, or offended ( on what I was looking for. I finally was able to work with a friend who was a sales manager at a dealer ( not there anymore) and ordered exactly what I wanted (sunroof, driver confidence package).

2016 Dodge Charger Scat pack

 

My long distance order went fine. I usedUSAA (true car) and Lindsay reached out to me, quoted me 7k under for a factory order (no negotiating, just took it), dropped a deposit, then flew down 28 days later when it showed up. They picked me up, drove me to the dealer and sent me on my way. Got a nice 500 mile break in taking backroads through the Poconos back to Connecticut.

The car was just fine,as expected.

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My long distance purchases are done over the phone. 3 out of state deals so far. If it wasn't worth it I wouldn't keep doing it.

 

0.00 APR for 72 months on 2018 Chargers through 01/08. I'm hoping I take delivery before then because I will be all over this. Free money. It's a no brainer.