That is a lot of lift! Are you sure you need that much cam? Always check piston to valve clearance when assembling engine.

 

The cars an automatic so it should be fine with a decent amount of stall for driveability? I just want the most bang for my buck while the engine is apart.

 

The cars an automatic so it should be fine with a decent amount of stall for driveability? I just want the most bang for my buck while the engine is apart.

The Comp Cam HRT Stage 3 is looking like a solid choice with its impressive lift and included springs. Just remember to check the piston-to-valve clearance during assembly to make sure everything fits like a glove. Since your car's automatic, it should handle the cam just fine, especially if you throw in a decent stall for good drivability.

 

I just did a comp cam stage 2…… cam installation is pricey unless you do the labor yourself but still needs tuned. I had all the aftermarket bolt ons and solid tune from Jay Greene…… after the stage 2 install I gained over 40 hp and never lost any torque down low (actually gained some)…….Most of that power comes in in the later rpm ranges. Mine came in at 4000 rpm’s and up…… I would think a stage 3 you’d lose a bit of torque down low unless you have a converter obviously.


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Trying to choose which cam kit to get for highest hp gain. So far I’ve come to conclusion the comp cam hrt stage 3 is best to get. Got over .600 lift and the kit comes with the springs needed to handle the extra lift. The heads are stock but the pistons are MMX forged 6.1 2816 with valve relief cutouts. Will this cam work with these pistons and stock heads? Or should I just order a custom grind from MMX?
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Selecting the right camshaft for your engine is essential to achieving the highest horsepower gain. When considering aftermarket camshafts, compatibility with your existing components is crucial for optimal performance and reliability.
The Comp Cams HRT Stage 3 cam kit you mentioned can indeed provide a significant increase in horsepower due to its high lift and aggressive profile. However, it's essential to ensure that the camshaft is compatible with your specific setup, including the pistons and heads.
Given that you have MMX forged 6.1 2816 pistons with valve relief cutouts, it's crucial to check whether the camshaft's lift and duration are within the piston's safe clearance range. The valve reliefs in the pistons are designed to provide adequate clearance for the valves when they open.

 

I would consult with MMX. They are pros at this.

The HRT3 will be a pretty radical top end cam. You will need a higher rated stall converter. You will loose some bottom end.

I went with the HRT2. It keeps a nice wide power band. If you street drive it, you are cruising at or below 2000 rpm. You don't want to punch it beside a Rustang and not be in your power band and have him pull away. I still changed to a 3k rpm stall to smooth it out.

WOT top HP numbers and all on a dyno are just for bragging. As was said before get the cam for your use. If it is just a weekend drag car, go wit the 3 and put a 4000 rpm stall in it.