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#41 ·
garyfish340 said:
As a matter of fact the photos I posted last week are all with the 05 FCM, and there are tons of stupid codes, heated seats, overhead module, (I don't have that either) and HVAC (Which functions) and Stereo codes, EQ not properly set (how the hell does it know how I like it set, bastard) plausible configuration for amplifier.
No real codes except the TCM sensing the engine coolant steaming off after I changed the radiator hoses without bleeding the air out.
Click to expand...
EQ/Amplifier code is important if your speakers started clipping, I blew my dash speakers after changing to 06 FCM, speakers slowly started crackling even at low volume.
FIX: Vehicle Config 2: Cabin Equalization Curve Number - 1A
 
#42 ·
I really wanted to hear another person say, "ignore it." before I did just as you suggest. Yes, I need the help, and feed back from the forum, but I also want to contribute to a post where, somebody looking for the answers, can see, "Oh yeah. That's what I got too." On my other forum there are guys who post stuff like. : You can swap magnum swirl port heads onto an LA engine... and they fail to mention that one oils through the rocker pedestals, and the other through the push rods. Sure fire disaster. Hopefully this post is more comprehensive. I can document everything that won't work if anybody asks, I can also reinforce the suggestion that are successful. I can try your suggestion in virtually "Real Time" That will allow other people to get what the want.
 
#44 ·
Genestealer said:
EQ/Amplifier code is important if your speakers started clipping, I blew my dash speakers after changing to 06 FCM, speakers slowly started crackling even at low volume.
FIX: Vehicle Config 2: Cabin Equalization Curve Number - 1A
Click to expand...
It did the same thing as when I did the temp gauge. I set configuration 3 just as you said, than started the car, and the light was still on, but when I shut it off, and plugged the program back in to double check that I did everything correct, the light was out. My wife has M.S.. She was watching me through the window. When I shot her the thumbs up, all I heard was awesome. AWESOME! This really helps. Highway driving in PA is like driving with maniacs, and Dawn's M.S. keeps her from being able to change radio stations. I can do stuff on the steering wheel now. Excellent. Thanks.
 
#45 ·
JD323 said:
garyfish340 said:
Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? In my case, I have the entire car as a donor. It's a salvaged SRT8, and I wanted to put the gauge cluster in my non SRT8, but when I tried it, I believed only the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge worked. My car is an 05, and the parts car is an 06.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
Click to expand...
Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? No. But my laptop does show 3 separate VIN#, an I've gained a whopping 100K miles. You shouln't have to many problems, you need to swap the Cluster, and FCM out of the SRT8. As GeneSteeler said, You might want to run AppCar program, go to report, save the report over to a file, and what I did is run Simple Desktop Recorder, and made a video of things I was looking at. (I didn't change anything, but the video can show you how the one car body, compares to the other. ) If you plan to turn the good body into an SRT8, maybe run the SRT8 also. If you're using Windows 10, I think X Box App come with a free desktop recorder app.

(GeneSteeler suggested (because he has an 05 to_ Go to "Vehicle config 3" in Appcar and change "Brake type calibration" to - Signal Not Available, and Suspension - Type 1. Axle ratio - 2.818. At least that's what fixed my BAS light on my 05 Magnum when I switched to 06 FCM.) That worked. Plus I have some stereo stuff that needs reconfiguring.
Click to expand...
 
#46 · (Edited)
So can Appcar reset ABS, TCM, PCM? Can it read wheels speed sensors? Can it tell what gear the transmission is in?


I'm having a problem with the transmission in my 06 Chrysler 300C 5.7 AWD and want to rule out some things.


Let me add that before the tranny went into limp mode, I started the car, the battery was a little low and struggled to start but it did start on the first attempt.

The ESP/BAS light came on and then when I put it in reverse and the tranny didn't do anything. I gave it some gas and then it banged into gear. Same thing when I put it in Drive. After some driving, it finally shifted into 2nd and 3rd and then lots of chimes and it went into Neutral. Been stuck in limp mode ever since, only 1st (maybe 2nd) and reverse.

I got codes P0700, P0730 and P0778.

I have changed the fluid and filter and then also siphoned more out and replaced it to flush the fluid some.


Oh, I also cleaned the 13 pin connector. I couldn't replace it because it wouldn't come out even after loosening the 7mm bolt. The blot wasn't free spinning in the conductor plate like some have experienced, it was completely loosened.

After cleaning the 13 pin connector, I haven't gotten the P codes again but the tranny is still in limp mode.
 
#47 ·
As for the hatch release. With the 2005 magnum factory cluster I added a trunk release button to the empty plug, prewired in the factory harness. (hanging directly below the parking brake release, behind the knee rest.) that worked fine. With the 2007 Cluster I simply removed the 4.7k ohm resistor, and plugged the wires back together as they were before the mod. Now that functions fine. In the hatch handle is a 4.7k Ohm 1/4 1/2 resistor. Remove the handle carefully cut into the left side of the handle, and remove, or bridge the resistor. Fixed. (Thank 65Standard for his outstanding research, and development.)
 
#50 ·
Hey what the hell. I've got the AppCar, so why not ? I've had this one issue with both clusters. Magnum uses the switch pictured bellow. Charger uses a similar switch, but without the wiper/washer function. If I install the correct switch in my Magnum, I get washer/wiper, ESP, and Hazards okay, but I get a yellow airbag warning light (which is the black bar in the switch, and passenger airbag light under the temperature gauge. If I install the Charger style switch which came with my car (used), everything is good, except I loose the washer/wiper function. BACK TO THE MAGNUM SWITCH>>>With AppCar I can get the lights to go out, but than the washer/wiper becomes disable, and that's without messing with any washer/wiper values in the program. I wonder if there is a bundle of wires pinched, shorting, or is it a certain voltage value is sent to activate the items in the switches through signals? very confusing.
 
#51 ·
Without getting into it. I just received a notification how I supposed to grovel on my knees for forgiveness. I think I'm also supposed to be overwhelmed, and impressed with an overly price custom dash that has the insignia of that team that got destroyed by the Bruins last week. Sorry I share the philosophy of the guy who builds his stuff from parts cars, not from credit cards. bloo knuckles, not waiting rooms.
Thanks to everybody who has spent the time teaching me to tackle the next learning curve, instead of bragging about how they opened their wallet and purchase a cooler prefab ride, I did 245 mile across I78 today issue free thanks too you.
 
#52 ·
4timesT said:
So can Appcar reset ABS, TCM, PCM? Can it read wheels speed sensors? Can it tell what gear the transmission is in?

I'm having a problem with the transmission in my 06 Chrysler 300C 5.7 AWD and want to rule out some things.

Let me add that before the tranny went into limp mode, I started the car, the battery was a little low and struggled to start but it did start on the first attempt.

The ESP/BAS light came on and then when I put it in reverse and the tranny didn't do anything. I gave it some gas and then it banged into gear. Same thing when I put it in Drive. After some driving, it finally shifted into 2nd and 3rd and then lots of chimes and it went into Neutral. Been stuck in limp mode ever since, only 1st (maybe 2nd) and reverse.

I got codes P0700, P0730 and P0778.

I have changed the fluid and filter and then also siphoned more out and replaced it to flush the fluid some.

Oh, I also cleaned the 13 pin connector. I couldn't replace it because it wouldn't come out even after loosening the 7mm bolt. The blot wasn't free spinning in the conductor plate like some have experienced, it was completely loosened.

After cleaning the 13 pin connector, I haven't gotten the P codes again but the tranny is still in limp mode.
Click to expand...
Is it this issue>>> 5.7 hemi u0103 code fcm - YouTube
 
#57 ·
If you didn't know.You can remove wire from the weather connectors, and replace them in a new plug.??? : What I'm not aware of is if/how you can just replace the red locking tab, to make things less frustrating, an quicker. Wire bunles age, and they get tough to manipulate.

As far as apologies go. Not happening. There was a bunch more done to the 2005 posted than buying AppCar, and using it. Somewhere there was either a swap to an 06, or later, or reflash or the old 05, and from what N.Y. installer told me, if you flash an 05 up to 06, the 0-60 timer gets lost. So No apologies.

 
#58 ·
For those of you that are skeptical (I was too) about this software I just wanted to share my experience. As I said, I was skeptical about this software for awhile because some of the posts seemed like paid advertisements and a little too good to be true for the price. I needed a software to program my Homelink, steering wheel controls, and EVIC cluster. I sent App Car a message on their site and did not get a response for several weeks. I got back on their site and sent another message saying that I sent a message before and never got a response and explained that I was skeptical of their software and told them what I needed it to do.... few days later I got an email from them saying that they would let me use the software and then pay for it afterwards if it works. This was a shock to me! They kind of were saying "here you go, we will prove that it works". I replied saying that was a deal and they sent me the install link along with my username and password. I installed the software on my computer, plugged in my Bluetooth OBDII adapter (VGATE icar2) and followed the instructions for setup on their site. No joke, 10 minutes later I had working steering wheel controls and Full EVIC cluster! I have yet to install my Homelink, but I am confident that I will be able to get it done with this software as well. I hope this helps some of you that are on the fence about this software.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
garyfish340 said:
So if I read what they state, it isn't a tuning tool? What does, "editing parameters" mean?
Click to expand...
Have you ever owned a real timing tool? Like a Diablosport product? It's a tuning tool. You can re-write files with it if you know someone who can mod them.

Good grief. This is getting pathetic. If you don't want it don't use it. I turned on my steering wheel controls. If it makes you happy I'll pull all that **** out for you so you can sleep better. Do you need your pacifier also?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
#60 ·
I have been reading on how to switch my plain SXT dash to an EVIC type. Well, I installed the wheel w/switches, PCM, Clockspring, and RT cluster. I hooked up the APPCAR software, and it was amazing how many things you can adjust. Basically I was really just interested in getting DRLs, but I figure since I am going to be keeping my '10 for a while I wanted the wheel controls, and a leather steering wheel. I figured for the $70 I paid for the cluster was a worthwhile purchase. I did not have any of the issues listed above, all my stuff just worked. I still need to put my home link in, and I think I need to get the FCM from the car the column and cluster came out of to get everything up and running. Thanks to the OP for posting this up and keeping the thread going.
 
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