[garyfish340]

Your serve!

 

[garyfish340]

I just finshed reviewing this thread even though I subscribed to it from the begining.

First if all if you just look at name of the App you should come to the basic conclusion than this is NOT a TUNING TOOL.

This tool is very similar to the Tazer by Zautomotive.

Sent via Tapatalk

I quote from their website.
The "Programming" tab allows you to edit selected configuration parameters of the vehicle.
When using this tab, we recommend connect to the vehicle using the USB interface.
Our studies have shown that some Bluetooth and WiFi devices may not be able to save data in the vehicle, but some Bluetooth devices works propertly.
The list of available parameters for editing depends on the equipment of the vehicle and the version of systems installed in vehicle.
To edit the parameters, select the item from the list and click the "Run" button.
In the following steps set the values of the edited parameters.
The editing process can be aborted by clicking the "Cancel" button.

Installation To install the application run the file setup.exe .
Please read and accept the rules of the license agreement when installing the application.

First use

When you first start the program, go to the "Settings" tab and fill in the fields:

• User
• Password
• Server

using data received after purchase of software license.
Select the COM port that the Diagnostics Interface uses. You can check the number: from DeviceManager, select "View devices by type", then "Ports (COM & LPT)".

Connecting to the vehicle

Connection to the vehicle is possible when:

• In the "Settings" tab you have: (1) the appropriate COM port number under which the ELM327 diagnostic interface is available, (2) the appropriate "baud rate"
  • For most devices should be set to 38400.
  • For OBDLink SX should be set to 115200.
  • For some devices should be set to 9600.
• The diagnostic interface is connected to the computer, whether it is connected to a USB connector or paired via Bluetooth, depending on the device version.
• The diagnostic interface is connected to the DLC diagnostic connector on the vehicle.
• The ignition switch on the vehicle is in the "Run" position - Ignition ON.

If the above conditions are met, the application will connect to the vehicle by pressing the "Connect to Vehicle" button:

The process of connecting to the vehicle is signaled by the green progress bar visible under the Buttons, as well as the information displayed in the application status bar.

Once you have connected to the vehicle, the information in the next section will be displayed in the "Vehicle" tab.

My Car tab

The My vehicle tab contains basic information:

• regarding the vehicle with which the connection was made,
• about the version of the diagnostic interface ELM327 compliant,
• about the diagnostic database of the vehicle with which the connection was made. Two scenarios are possible:
  
  

If the Database is not available, download it from our server by clicking "here" or by using button the "Settings" tab.

Diagnostic tab

The tab contains a list of modules available on the vehicle.
The list contains the following fields:

• Module - module acronym, according to the nomenclature used by the vehicle manufacturer
• Name - full module name
• Active - The number of active DTC trouble codes read from the module
• Pending- The number of pending DTC trouble codes read from the module
• Stored - The number of stored DTC trouble codes read from the module

To access the diagnostic functions available for a particular module, double-click it in the list or select it and click the "Run Diagnostics" button.
Module info tab

The "Module info" tab is available in the Diagnostics tab, after selecting the module. The basic information about the module - identification and configuration information is displayed.
Live data tab

The "Live data" tab allows you to view the current values of the selected parameters of a given module.
Values are displayed for the selected parameters, after pressing the "Start" button.
The "Show selected items only" option allows you to hide inactive parameters.

DTCs tab

The "DTCs" tab contains a list of trouble codes read from the module.
The colors to the left of the items in the list indicate the status of the trouble code:

• means that the trouble code is active
• means that the trouble code has pending status
• means that the trouble code has stored status

Below are three buttons available:

It allows you to export data from the list of trouble codes - to the clipboard or file

It allows you to refresh the list of trouble codes

Clears the trouble codes memory in the module - if the trouble codes have 'active' status, they may not be erased until the fault is resolved.
Actuators tab

The "Actuators" tab allows you to control the actuators and tests available in the module.

Report tab

The "Report" tab contains the contents of the Vehicle Scan Report.
It can be found in it:

• basic vehicle data (model, year, VIN, odometer count)
• list of available systems, with a list of error trouble for each of them.

The report can be:

• copy to clipboard
• save to * .rtf text file

Programming tab

The "Programming" tab allows you to edit selected configuration parameters of the vehicle.
When using this tab, we recommend connect to the vehicle using the USB interface.
Our studies have shown that some Bluetooth and WiFi devices may not be able to save data in the vehicle, but some Bluetooth devices works propertly.
The list of available parameters for editing depends on the equipment of the vehicle and the version of systems installed in vehicle.
To edit the parameters, select the item from the list and click the "Run" button.
In the following steps set the values of the edited parameters.
The editing process can be aborted by clicking the "Cancel" button.

You can edit of available parameters

The last step in editing parameters - a summary is displayed:

• Programming Status: OK or ERROR
• List of parameter values saved after programming

 

[garyfish340]

So if I read what they state, it isn't a tuning tool? What does, "editing parameters" mean?

 

[hemi_57]

I quote from their website.
The "Programming" tab allows you to edit selected configuration parameters of the vehicle.
When using this tab, we recommend connect to the vehicle using the USB interface.
Our studies have shown that some Bluetooth and WiFi devices may not be able to save data in the vehicle, but some Bluetooth devices works propertly.
The list of available parameters for editing depends on the equipment of the vehicle and the version of systems installed in vehicle.
To edit the parameters, select the item from the list and click the "Run" button.
In the following steps set the values of the edited parameters.
The editing process can be aborted by clicking the "Cancel" button.

***** Snip ****

The "Programming" tab allows you to edit selected configuration parameters of the vehicle.

I think you're taking the term "Programmimg" literally. If you had supplied can tunes and other tuning options of adding timing, change idle, change max RPM, reset the speed limiter etc like Trinity from Diablo has then you would have a real Tuner. But, all this does is turn on/off switches in the configuration files.

I have a 17 Scat and with the Tazer I am able to access the SRT options that are pre-loaded in the ECM but not turned on. Zautomitive also has an option to add the 3 Aux buttons (supplied for $45) and to remap them to the user's requirements.. IE - Button 1 = line lock, Button 2 = launch control, Button 3 = Sport Mode/Street Mode/ Custom Mode (press 1,2,3 times) The Tazer also has a light show option that you can run from the key fob. The only thing I know you can actually change is the tire size to correct a speedo error.

 

[garyfish340]

I think you're taking the term "Programmimg" literally. If you had supplied can tunes and other tuning options of adding timing, change idle, change max RPM, reset the speed limiter etc like Trinity from Diablo has then you would have a real Tuner. But, all this does is turn on/off switches in the configuration files.

I have a 17 Scat and with the Tazer I am able to access the SRT options that are pre-loaded in the ECM but not turned on. Zautomitive also has an option to add the 3 Aux buttons (supplied for $45) and to remap them to the user's requirements.. IE - Button 1 = line lock, Button 2 = launch control, Button 3 = Sport Mode/Street Mode/ Custom Mode (press 1,2,3 times) The Tazer also has a light show option that you can run from the key fob. The only thing I know you can actually change is the tire size to correct a speedo error.

No offense, but the only thing I mention was what the title did. Installing a functioning EVIC cluster. I never mentioned messing with the engine tune, or TCM.

Tuning means exactly what it says, " Changing parameters", in this case, it claims it can change what you car was optioned with, and in the post specifically, EVIC cluster. I am not confusing the term, I'm clarifying if anything. And I'm not actually trying to go after the Author of the post, I'm going after the statement that Appcar, Will reply the requests, and add sales codes to allow parameter changes. The Author of this post has been inquiring about how to add a EVIC cluster since before 2011, when people were doing this job the hard way, and there was no Appcar program.
For that matter, you really need to have the correct model cluster for the car you have. If you have a cluster from a super bee, or srt8 charger and you install it in a magnum, the rear hatch will read the wrong resistance, and not open. This maybe something Appcar could resolve. Somehow I doubt it since it's similar to the temp gauge issue in resistance.
2011 post
" mike, if you want to use a charger cluster in your magnum, you need to modify the rear gate switch. take a good look at this picture. it is the switch inside the gate handle. there are only two wires. the wire on the right goes straight into the brass contact. now look at the wire on the left. you can see the wire goes into the switch a little to the left of the brass contact. between that wire and the brass contact is a 4.7 ohm resistor. i soldered over that resistor to eliminate it.

also, everything you see here is burried in plastic. i scraped the plastic off until i saw the resistor. as you can see, i scraped the right side first and didn't find the resistor. you will not have to do that. just scrape the plastic off the left side where the resistor is hidden under the plastic.

once you modify the switch, the rear gate handle will work with the charger cluster. you can also buy the charger's dash button and plug that in to pop the gate too. and you can change the rubber insert in the key FOB with one from a charger to get the 4th button. that too will work to pop the rear gate remotely.

you will have to change the gate struts to stronger ones or and a little spring to the stock struts to help it get past the catch.

 

[hemi_57]

No harm - no foul

Carry on.

 

[garyfish340]

No harm - no foul

Carry on.

These guys from the early days of the LX Forum really knew their stuff. They learned it the hard way trial, and error. The trunk hatch is the key. I think it was Genesteeler or Jay727 who replied about FCMs, and basically said, "If it can't communicate, than you're wasting your time." If the resistors are different for oil press, or temp gauge, or the rear hatch. It's not going to read correctly. So in some cases, it's not going to work. I can't imagine that the Charger cluster would have a different resistor for oil, and temp than a Magnum. (It can work by modification.)
Anybody looking to install a basic 2005 EVIC cluster? I didn't think so unless like me you just want steering controls.

 

[JD323]

These guys from the early days of the LX Forum really knew their stuff. They learned it the hard way trial, and error. The trunk hatch is the key. I think it was Genesteeler or Jay727 who replied about FCMs, and basically said, "If it can't communicate, than you're wasting your time." If the resistors are different for oil press, or temp gauge, or the rear hatch. It's not going to read correctly. So in some cases, it's not going to work. I can't imagine that the Charger cluster would have a different resistor for oil, and temp than a Magnum. (It can work by modification.)
Anybody looking to install a basic 2005 EVIC cluster? I didn't think so unless like me you just want steering controls.

I don't think that it's a different resistor, I think the clusters are programmed to the VIN. I tried putting an SRT8 cluster in my 300c and the only think that worked was the speedo, I had nothing for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage.

I sent them an email about a month ago asking if I could reprogram the cluster to work in my car and never received a response. I am going to purchase the app so I can reset the airbag light on my car, and disable the tpms on my wife's Journey.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

 

[garyfish340]

I don't think that it's a different resistor, I think the clusters are programmed to the VIN. I tried putting an SRT8 cluster in my 300c and the only think that worked was the speedo, I had nothing for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage.

I sent them an email about a month ago asking if I could reprogram the cluster to work in my car and never received a response. I am going to purchase the app so I can reset the airbag light on my car, and disable the tpms on my wife's Journey.

To swap out the Cluster with an EVIC Cluster the FCM needs updateing (in my case 05 to 06, plus the 07 cluster must be flashed to 06.). Most cases those without the Wheel Controls will still need to swap the SCM and Clockspring... Most of the time if you have the Traction Control Button, then you shouldnt need the different SCM & Clockspring, as you should already have the correct one.

The Homelink Module is needed if you wish to have the EVIC Compass feature working, but you can still add EVIC without the HM, you'll just notice to dash marks -- where the Compass reading is supposed to be... You can add the HM at a later date like I plan to for mine...
As I stated earlier, I only have issues with oil press., and engine temp, plus hatch release.
Added EVIC !!! Big Thanks To NYinstaller !!

 

[JD323]

I don't think that it's a different resistor, I think the clusters are programmed to the VIN. I tried putting an SRT8 cluster in my 300c and the only think that worked was the speedo, I had nothing for oil pressure, water temp, and voltage.

I sent them an email about a month ago asking if I could reprogram the cluster to work in my car and never received a response. I am going to purchase the app so I can reset the airbag light on my car, and disable the tpms on my wife's Journey.

To swap out the Cluster with an EVIC Cluster the FCM needs updateing (in my case 05 to 06, plus the 07 cluster must be flashed to 06.). Most cases those without the Wheel Controls will still need to swap the SCM and Clockspring... Most of the time if you have the Traction Control Button, then you shouldnt need the different SCM & Clockspring, as you should already have the correct one.

The Homelink Module is needed if you wish to have the EVIC Compass feature working, but you can still add EVIC without the HM, you'll just notice to dash marks -- where the Compass reading is supposed to be... You can add the HM at a later date like I plan to for mine...
As I stated earlier, I only have issues with oil press., and engine temp, plus hatch release.
Added EVIC !!! Big Thanks To NYinstaller !!

Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? In my case, I have the entire car as a donor. It's a salvaged SRT8, and I wanted to put the gauge cluster in my non SRT8, but when I tried it, I believed only the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge worked. My car is an 05, and the parts car is an 06.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

 

[garyfish340]

Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? In my case, I have the entire car as a donor. It's a salvaged SRT8, and I wanted to put the gauge cluster in my non SRT8, but when I tried it, I believed only the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge worked. My car is an 05, and the parts car is an 06.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

Look Mon!, no AppCar Diag. and yes my front right brake is screwed up, but the old dash didn't tell me at all.
GOPR0008 - YouTube

 

[Genestealer]

Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? In my case, I have the entire car as a donor. It's a salvaged SRT8, and I wanted to put the gauge cluster in my non SRT8, but when I tried it, I believed only the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge worked. My car is an 05, and the parts car is an 06.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

Since you have a donor car, swap the FCM from it to your 05, and your SRT8 cluster will work fully.

 

[garyfish340]

Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? In my case, I have the entire car as a donor. It's a salvaged SRT8, and I wanted to put the gauge cluster in my non SRT8, but when I tried it, I believed only the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge worked. My car is an 05, and the parts car is an 06.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

First, remember I have a 2005, so results may vary.
So the results were the same as you. I only had, fuel gauge, speedo, & tach, also my digital oil pressure read 157P, with my stock 2005 FCM, when I installed the the 2006 FCM, I thought it was pretty much the same for the engine temperature gauge faces, but the digital read out were correct. On the first test drive, I was trying to read those tiny digital numbers while keeping one eye on the road. I was just about to curse about the temp gauge needle not functioning, but as I glared over to it, it was reading correctly.So right now the only item I have an issue with is a ESP/BAS light, which I do have an issue with the right front brake, but the AppCar_Diag program states is in "implausible configuration." So that may be a software issue, or it maybe a brake issue. As much as I would like to be egotistical, and be like, "Screw that useless program." I have to assume it's correct, until I prove otherwise. My philosophy is you can have a crappy engine, or trans, but brakes are not to be ignored. So I'll do the front brakes AGAIN, and pay a local guy check it on his Starscan. If the results don't change, I'll have the 2005 FCM flash to 2006. It's just not worth not knowing what the brake are doing.

 

[garyfish340]

Did you have to get the FCM programmed to your VIN? In my case, I have the entire car as a donor. It's a salvaged SRT8, and I wanted to put the gauge cluster in my non SRT8, but when I tried it, I believed only the speedo, tach, and fuel gauge worked. My car is an 05, and the parts car is an 06.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app

Tip:40
Centering the Steering Wheel: AKA: SAS calibration (steering Angle Sensor)

On Disconnect of the vehicle battery;
You may need to do a SAS calibration if when restoring power your steering wheel and steering angle sensor get out of calibration. This is where the steering wheel is centered, but the actual front wheels are not seen centered (electronically).

If the vehicle is equipped with ESP, once the battery is reconnected, the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) within the Antilock Brake Module (ABM) needs to be calibrated. The SAS requires calibration (initialization) using the scan tool anytime the battery or an ABS (ESP) component has been disconnected for any length of time.

If the SAS is not calibrated following battery reconnection, the ESP/BAS indicator lamp will flash continuously with no DTCs.

Step 1: Start car:
Center the wheels (not the steering wheel, but the actual front wheels need to be straight) then Turn OFF car, open door to kill electronics, wait
for 3 minutes for vehicle CANBUS to shutdown.

Step 2: Start car:
turn wheels full right turn and hold for a 10 Mississippi count.
turn wheels full left and hold for a 10 Mississippi count
turn wheels full right
turn wheels full left
Return to Center.

---
Note:
In the dealers StarScan tool, it directs you thru each step with a countdown timer of 10 seconds.. but the StarScan is not needed to
calibrate the SAS "Steering Control Sensors", all it is doing is walking you thru the above listed steps.

This applies to all models (SX,RT,SRT) of Dodge Challenger 2008 and above, as all have the SCM (Steering Control Module)
at the base of the steering column.

 

[Genestealer]

right now the only item I have an issue with is a ESP/BAS light, which I do have an issue with the right front brake, but the AppCar_Diag program states is in "implausible configuration." So that may be a software issue, or it maybe a brake issue. As much as I would like to be egotistical, and be like, "Screw that useless program." I have to assume it's correct, until I prove otherwise. My philosophy is you can have a crappy engine, or trans, but brakes are not to be ignored. So I'll do the front brakes AGAIN, and pay a local guy check it on his Starscan. If the results don't change, I'll have the 2005 FCM flash to 2006. It's just not worth not knowing what the brake are doing.

Thanks for asking, this is a configuration problem in FCM, not your brake problem.
Go to "Vehicle config 3" in Appcar and change "Brake type calibration" to - Signal Not Available, and Suspension - Type 1. Axle ratio - 2.818. At least that's what fixed my BAS light on my 05 Magnum when I switched to 06 FCM.

 

[garyfish340]

Thanks for asking, this is a configuration problem in FCM, not your brake problem.
Go to "Vehicle config 3" in Appcar and change "Brake type calibration" to - Signal Not Available, and Suspension - Type 1. Axle ratio - 2.818. At least that's what fixed my BAS light on my 05 Magnum when I switched to 06 FCM.

Genestealer. I agree. I just sent an IM to RobsSXT capitulated, admitted defeat. (But not before considering a piece of black electrical tape over the light.) if I can't make the system function 100%, than it the same as a epic fail. but,,,I'm told the only way to repair this is to reflash the system using WITECH pass thru with TECHAUORITY WEB SITE or you can use your own J2534 and buy a 1 day subscription from TECHAUORITY and reflash it yourself.
Still if you had success with what you stated above, I'd be a fool not to take a shot at it.
ANIMAL HOUSE Bluto's Germans Speech - YouTube

 

[Genestealer]

Thanks for asking, this is a configuration problem in FCM, not your brake problem.
Go to "Vehicle config 3" in Appcar and change "Brake type calibration" to - Signal Not Available, and Suspension - Type 1. Axle ratio - 2.818. At least that's what fixed my BAS light on my 05 Magnum when I switched to 06 FCM.

Better yet, swap back to your 05 FCM, Build a Vehicle Config Report with Appcar, (report feature is available in 1.6 beta version), and save to a file. Install your 06-07 FCM, and change all the FCM parameters to match what's in your 05 Report. And the new parameters that didn't exist in you 05 FCM change to Signal Not Available/Not Set, like "brake type calibration" i believe didn't exist in 05 FCM. Of course keep the Steering wheel controls SET, and set any other features that you like/want if you know what you're doing.

 

[garyfish340]

Better yet, swap back to your 05 FCM, Build a Vehicle Config Report with Appcar, (report feature is available in 1.6 beta version), and save to a file. Install your 06-07 FCM, and change all the FCM parameters to match what's in your 05 Report. And the new parameters that didn't exist in you 05 FCM change to Signal Not Available/Not Set, like "brake type calibration" i believe didn't exist in 05 FCM. Of course keep the Steering wheel controls SET, and set any other features that you like/want if you know what you're doing.

I already experimented with that idea just as you suggested. Remember the "Heated seat open circuit" My guess is I would also need to swap the old cluster back too, and it might get confusing. When I swapped back to the 05 FCM it still said, "Heated seat open circuit." I even turned it to NOT SET, and it still won't go away. Maybe I have heated seats, and somebody swap the lower center dash. Very odd.

 

[garyfish340]

As a matter of fact the photos I posted last week are all with the 05 FCM, and there are tons of stupid codes, heated seats, overhead module, (I don't have that either) and HVAC (Which functions) and Stereo codes, EQ not properly set (how the hell does it know how I like it set, bastard) plausible configuration for amplifier.
No real codes except the TCM sensing the engine coolant steaming off after I changed the radiator hoses without bleeding the air out.

 

[Genestealer]

Genestealer. I agree. I just sent an IM to RobsSXT capitulated, admitted defeat. (But not before considering a piece of black electrical tape over the light.) if I can't make the system function 100%, than it the same as a epic fail. but,,,I'm told the only way to repair this is to reflash the system using WITECH pass thru with TECHAUORITY WEB SITE or you can use your own J2534 and buy a 1 day subscription from TECHAUORITY and reflash it yourself.
Still if you had success with what you stated above, I'd be a fool not to take a shot at it.
ANIMAL HOUSE Bluto's Germans Speech - YouTube

I have Witech, and with 07 Charger SRT8 cluster and 06 300C FCM in my 05 Magnum, while I was able to re-flash modules, restoring "configuration" FAILED using Witech, no matter how much I tried, thankfully using CDA to change all the parameters worked wonders.

I already experimented with that idea just as you suggested. Remember the "Heated seat open circuit" My guess is I would also need to swap the old cluster back too, and it might get confusing. When I swapped back to the 05 FCM it still said, "Heated seat open circuit." I even turned it to NOT SET, and it still won't go away. Maybe I have heated seats, and somebody swap the lower center dash. Very odd.

Like you should already know, heated seats are set in Cluster config also, which can't be changed with Appcar yet. I'd say ignore it, it doesn't hurt anything, and won't set your check engine light.