You pretty much have it on the head as far as bolt ons go. And you are very prudent to address the suspension first but how about upgrading to some OEM SRT stuff or some aftermarket stuff so you can get it out of the way. The SRT stuff is cheaper and will address your budget. As for the tuner go with either a Diablosport inTune or Trinity. Check out Legmaker intakes for a CAI.

 

I haven't wholly decided on what suspension I want to run. I need to look into what SRT stuff will fit my car and how much of a drop it will be. I'm looking for something around 1.5-2" and a more aggressive spring rate. I want to feel more stable, the stock springs feel "mushy"... whether it's from age or they're just that soft.

I see Diablosport thrown around a LOT for a tuner. Seems like it is the go to for the community. Your recommendation for Legmaker is the first that I have saw for that name, I'll check them out. Thanks.

 

X2 on diablosport. Lmi makes a great product, lmi true cai is the best one. I have slp long tubes on my car now, like it. However jba long tubes and high flow cats were on my last car and they sounded great, $1000 for long tubes and high flow cats thru autoanything.com

 

I installed the brake front/rear calipers and spindles from a 2010 SRT8 Charger onto my 05 300C. I run BC Racing Coil overs, they were around a $1000 when I bought them. There are several vendors here that sell them. I will X3 the Diablo and the LMI True CAI. If you run Long tube headers you may have issues trying to set your ride at 1.5 - 2.0". OEM SRT springs will set you around 1" lower.

 

Stages 1-3 are completed (a little while ago)
*entire front end parts were replaced (minus TRE's, those were solid and had already been replaced recently)
*installed a set of Eibach Pro Kit springs on Sachs shocks
*purchased a Diablosport u1000 & running 93 octane w/ CAI tune
*made my own "frankentake"
*put on a Jegs 3" catback exhaust

I haven't done headers or mids yet, I want to do a cam swap first. I'm leaning towards the SR2B cam. Most of my driving is on the street, but I want something that has a really good sound to it, a "lope". From what I have read, I'll need to get (or SHOULD get) a 6.1 timing set, pushrods, and valve springs. Down the road, I'll upgrade the converter to probably a 3200 stall... maybe 3600.

Is there anything else that I should change?
Can I run a canned tune safely until I can get it professionally tuned?
Other than losing low end power, will keeping the factory torque converter hurt anything?

 

With a new cam, I would get a startup tune and you can then email tune. After going a few years without one, I would highly recommend you install a wideband 02 sensor and connect it to your Intune for data logging and tuning your cam and any other mods you install afterwards. Trinity would be easier but Intune will work with a laptop.

If you drive on the street mostly, the stock torque converter is fine. You won't loose low end power with the factory converter, you just wont be able to launch at a higher rpm where there is more power. That's not going to happen on the street or with street tires anyways.

Another way to go is with new rear end gears, either 3.06, 3.23, 3.55. Its a bit of money but very worth it since you put more torque to the ground without modding the engine. 3.06 will get you about 9% more torque multiplication, 3.23.. 15%, and 3.55...about 26% percent more!

Last recommendation would be an upgraded TCM or at least a Tranzformer. Higher shift points, quicker shifts, 2nd gear lockup etc.. will make the car a blast to drive.