True Ram Air intake for $10.
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wow good stuff would like to see an air flow gauge reading to see if this helps a lot. Good Job
Yea. I think the water intake on this would be huge. You might think about getting a black K&N Drycharger (http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RF-1042DK) and putting it over the inlet behind the grill. It's coated to reduce water flowing through it but still allow air flow. Granted the airflow will be reduced but seems well worth it if it keeps water out of the engine.
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You are better off putting together a Frankentake III. It is cheap, does add hp and tq (as proven by test), looks damn mean, and sucks air, like there was not filter at all. Plus you get to take out the ugly airbox and other junk from there. Leaves you lots of place for those HID ballasts 
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Hummm... I was thinking WARNING this could be dangerious!
I wonder if you couldnt modify something similar to a dryer vent like they use on a house. The flaps open when the dryer runs to allow the hot air to escape. Take these flaps and add a small servo motor and a switch and you could open the flaps when dry out and close them in the rain. Air will still get into the airbox from the stock system if left in tact. Hell for that matter a second servo could close off the stock hole when the damper opens in the grill.
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But now I'm thinking even harder....this could get real dangerous
Make a damper for the end of the tube and connect it to a servo. Like throttle plate...Ok you guys take it from here I got this thing started.
I wonder if you couldnt modify something similar to a dryer vent like they use on a house. The flaps open when the dryer runs to allow the hot air to escape. Take these flaps and add a small servo motor and a switch and you could open the flaps when dry out and close them in the rain. Air will still get into the airbox from the stock system if left in tact. Hell for that matter a second servo could close off the stock hole when the damper opens in the grill.
But now I'm thinking even harder....this could get real dangerous
Make a damper for the end of the tube and connect it to a servo. Like throttle plate...Ok you guys take it from here I got this thing started.
Nope, not at WOT and high speed.
I'm a dentist. The high speed handpiece I use sprays water and air to keep the tooth cool while I'm prepping. If my assistant gets the suction too close to the handpiece none of the water hits the tooth, it just gets drawn into the suction.
The same thing will happen here. I don't know how many CFM our engines pull at WOT, but considering their displacement and power output, I think 750 CFM is probably reasonable. Seven hundred and fifty cubic feet per minute is a lot of air. Now consider that your tube is blowing pressurized air and water at your intake from just an inch away, while your intake sucks 750 CFM. I guarantee it'll draw water in!
That's not to say you can't make this work, just not the way it is now. A gas (air) will move around corners much easier than a heavy liquid (water). That's why "wet" intake manifolds are so hard to design. So consider putting the filter in a box, then cutting some large tubing in half so it would act as a shield for the front of the filter but leave the back half open. The water hitting the shield won't be able to turn 90 degrees and enter the filter so it'll drop off, however the air can turn easily. If you sealed your ram air to the box the pressure in the box will likely be higher than just blowing the air at the filter anyway, so you may even net more HP with the shield/box intact. Just make sure to drill a small hole to allow the water to drain from the box.
Please bear in mind that I haven't tried to build this, it's just a thought to try to keep you out of trouble. I'm open to suggestions if anyone sees a fault in this.
Cheers:i2:
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