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stay modded, my friend...
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Champion Iridium #9403

07RT, how do you like the Iridiums?? Anyone else use the NGK Iridiums?? Are they worth the extra money??
They work great, but time and miles will be the true testto see if they were worth the extra $. Th original copper ones I pulled were still hangin' in there, so no substantial performance gain.
 

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Just did mine. Took about 3 hours, first time doing plugs. Went well. The 95' heat made it a pain but other than that I am happy.

70k miles, 2nd owner so I don't know if they are factory plugs or not. Made sure to use anti seize as some of them were in there tight and made noise coming out. I only used the wrench to start and finish the twisting, fingers and an extension the rest of the time to be safe. Started her up after every pair and found no problems.

BIG thanks again for the info guys!
 

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I ♥ AWD
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My Magnum has the originals and I'm at 63k miles now (50k miles in the last 25 months). I think it's time to change them!

What local parts store has these in stock and at a good price?
 

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My Magnum has the originals and I'm at 63k miles now (50k miles in the last 25 months). I think it's time to change them!

What local parts store has these in stock and at a good price?
I bought the plugs from rockauto.com and the anti sieze/boot grease from a local run car parts store. Great having them shipped right to the door for around $30 and picked up a few odds and ends as well.
 

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I ♥ AWD
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How much anti-seize are you guys applying? Are you spreading it over all of the threads?

How much dielectric grease are you using as well? Are you putting a small amount on top of the insulator?
 

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Sedan on Steroids
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How much anti-seize are you guys applying? Are you spreading it over all of the threads?
A little anti-sieze goes a long way. I just put a small dab on the leading edge of the threads. It gets spread around the rest of the threaded area as you install the spark plug and tighten it.

How much dielectric grease are you using as well? Are you putting a small amount on top of the insulator?
On the dielectric grease, I just give a small squeeeze of the tube to the inside of the rubber spark plug boot and then spread it 360 degrees around the inside of the boot using a smalll screwdriver. Just enough for a thin coat will do you just fine.
 

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How much anti-seize are you guys applying? Are you spreading it over all of the threads?

How much dielectric grease are you using as well? Are you putting a small amount on top of the insulator?
With the anti size I would place a small dab on either sie of the plugs in the middle of the threads and spread it around with my finger. Just made sure a small amount was in the threads and no gobs hanging off.

The grease just a small dab in the plastic boot of the coil pack, about the size of a peanut.
 

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I ♥ AWD
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Thanks for all the help fellas.

Took me almost 2hrs taking my time and jacking up the car to take off the belly pan to retrieve a bolt. Plugs looked pretty good for 64k miles on them. I won't change them again until 100k. Used OEM Champions from NAPA, around $30.
 

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Mopar or No Car
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Plugs are not torqued... if it has the little metal gasket it is a 1/4 turn past contact, if it doesn't and it just has a tapered metal flange it is 1/16 turn past contact. or snugged up as someone put it... haven't done mine yet but about to... hopefully get rid of the stutter I get sometimes...

I'm not even at 23k yet but I like doing things early... Might try the platinums but like most said, the coppers are fine and cheaper and I'll be taking them out on the copper scheduled 30k or sooner anyways so why throw the money out...

maybe I'll do em and like my oil go right on schedule instead of early with regular (changed to synth at 3k)
 

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im running platinum plugs and have had no issues also installed an mds light. mds comes on more readily. fuel mileage has increased slightly. i run premium fuel, ams 5-20 full synthetic, tunned for premium fuel with superchips cortex. k&n filter element cleaned every 30 thousand kilometers.

....not necessary to remove wiring from coil just unplug from spark plug and rest on intake. every time you remove plugs you introduce moister and dust and they wont fit as snug if removed frequently.....and always check gap even if they claim to be pre gapped
 

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Plugs are not torqued... if it has the little metal gasket it is a 1/4 turn past contact, if it doesn't and it just has a tapered metal flange it is 1/16 turn past contact. or snugged up as someone put it... haven't done mine yet but about to... hopefully get rid of the stutter I get sometimes...
According to the Service Manual: "13 foot pounds; not to exceed 15 foot pounds", for the 5.7L engine.
 

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Excellent post. I used this to change the plugs in my 06 300c. It took me about 2.5 hours, which included the time spent removing the piece of plastic under the car to get a lost bolt. One tip that I picked up on is to not completely unscrew the bolts on the assembly. Each assembly has threads, so the bolts will stay in place and you will not have the great experience of having to find the bolt under the engine.
 

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Very useful write up. I just finished changing the spark plugs on my 2006 Daytona. One of the simplest plug changes I've ever done. Not sure how it could have been made easier. That being said, it still took 1 hour and fifteen. There's a lot of twisting involved with changing 16 long plugs. I replaced the plugs with the exact same Champion type. I used anti seize and dialectic grease. I even set the gap and torqued the plugs, a first for me. I do have a couple comments, hopefully not offending anyone. I'm not sure how a few of you dropped screws when removing the coils. For my car they are the type of screw that remain in the coil pack (retainer type) when unbolted. Next comment is concerning the mileage. I was surprised at the low mileage a few of you changed your plugs at. Seemed like the 70s again. Perhaps shame on me for waiting until 110K miles to change them for the first time but the car has alway run so good I wrongfully assumed they were platinum plugs. The old plugs were all about the same with .060" gap. Don't get me wrong, I do believe in preventive maintenance which is why I changed my serpentine belt the other day.
 

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Very useful write up. I just finished changing the spark plugs on my 2006 Daytona. One of the simplest plug changes I've ever done. Not sure how it could have been made easier. That being said, it still took 1 hour and fifteen. There's a lot of twisting involved with changing 16 long plugs. I replaced the plugs with the exact same Champion type. I used anti seize and dialectic grease. I even set the gap and torqued the plugs, a first for me. I do have a couple comments, hopefully not offending anyone. I'm not sure how a few of you dropped screws when removing the coils. For my car they are the type of screw that remain in the coil pack (retainer type) when unbolted. Next comment is concerning the mileage. I was surprised at the low mileage a few of you changed your plugs at. Seemed like the 70s again. Perhaps shame on me for waiting until 110K miles to change them for the first time but the car has alway run so good I wrongfully assumed they were platinum plugs. The old plugs were all about the same with .060" gap. Don't get me wrong, I do believe in preventive maintenance which is why I changed my serpentine belt the other day.
Well... for the 5.7, the changeout schedule is every 30k, using Copper plugs.

On the other hand, the 6.1's have Iridium plugs and the changeout schedule is 100k.

Some members are running Iridium plugs in the 5.7 and going with longer changout schedules...

I would say that those whom you have observed as changing out their plugs at relatively low miles are probably following the prescribed maintenance schedule :)

Bob
 

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aka White Ops R/T
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Holy **** am I overdue for this. I bought my car with 30k on the clock, and I highly doubt they were changed when I bought it. Currently sitting at 105k on the clock. For some reason I was under the impression that the hemi's were 100k plugs. Going to change them this week!
 
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