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05 Magnum RT and 10 Challenger
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7,415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Plug Specs:

ABout $41 for 16 new Champion RE14MCC4 Copper Plus Plugs.

Use 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs to torque plugs and 105 in-lbs to torque coil bolts.

Gap plugs at .045"

Changing spark plugs:

1. Remove Engine Cover
2. Pick a coil plug set to start with. Here is the #2 (front pass side)



3: Remove the electrical connector by pushing the red locking mechanism to the left to unlock and then pressing the center catch clip while pulling up.



4. Remove the boot for the secondary plug wire:



5. Loosen the two 10mm bolts with a 10mm socket wrench.



6. Remove coil pack by pulling upwards. Make several lighter tugs to break the boot suction rather than one big pull so as to not separate the coil from the boot (breaking the unit).



7. Remove secondary plug boot. Now both spark plug holes should be exposed.



8. Use small standard (5/8" I think) spark plug socket (with rubber boot inside) and wrench to remove plug. Remove one or both at a time, it doesn't matter.



9. Inspect your plug for oil fouling, black soot and other damage. This is a good plug.



10. Gap new plug at .045" and apply liberal amounts of High Temperature Anti-seize lubricant (e.g. Napa Copper Anti-Seize). Don't skip this part. Anti-seize is needed when two disimilar metal threads are in contact (spark plug = steel, head = aluminum).

11. Install both plugs and torque to 13 ft-lbs or 156 in-lbs.

12. Install secondary coil boot and press the top to ensure a good connection.

13. Install coil and hand thread the two 10mm bolts

14. Tighten the 10mm bolts to 105 in-lbs.

15. Connect the secondary plug boot.

16. Connect the electrical connector and lock it pushing the red lock tab to the right.

17. Repeat process 7 more times.

Here's some photos of the plugs I replaced.

Old vs New (25K miles, some electrode wear as expected)



See all photos here:

http://public.fotki.com/99300mricva/2005_300c/25k_spark_plug_repl/

Took about 1.5 hours to do the job, taking my time. Plugs were in tight and squeaked when being removed at first.
 

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100K Mile Club!!
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2,892 Posts
Thanks for this great write-up! I'm thinking I can do this myself now instead of paying the dealer an arm and a leg.
 
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LX Oldtimer
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11,692 Posts
Did you use Champion Plugs? What part number?

Thanks,

Bob
 

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Mopar Man
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118 Posts
The part number is on a decal near the radiator. They are not Platinum and Dodge does not recommend Platinum on MDS engines. Mine are Champions. I just don't have the part number with me right now.
 

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05 Magnum RT and 10 Challenger
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7,415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry, forgot the details on what to buy. I edited the first post to show the plug specs.
 

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LX Guru
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3,247 Posts
Quote from dealer to change plugs..$265, Joining forum $0, cost of plugs $60 (from dealer) savings $205. Took a little over an hour because I was being careful. this is a no brainer more money for mods.:thumbs_u:
 

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LX Padiwan
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309 Posts
krwkenny said:
The part number is on a decal near the radiator. They are not Platinum and Dodge does not recommend Platinum on MDS engines. Mine are Champions. I just don't have the part number with me right now.
I don't know where everybody is getting this "only copper core stuff". You can install any type of plug you want as long as the heat range and dimensions are the same.

The only reason "Copper cores" are instaled on the Hemis are price. Bean counters looking to save some production cash.

Even the new Champion catalog is offering metal flavors "Copper, Platinum and Iridium" for your Hemi.
 

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05 Magnum RT and 10 Challenger
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7,415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
All I was saying was put back in what you took out since they are working good.

I've heard many stories about putting platinum plugs in engines not designed for it and having problems (Ford 5.0L V8, etc).

When you see the option in the catalog to get those I wonder if it's because they've been tested or just have the same thread and length specs, only the internal makeup being different.

Try the better plugs and if they work, great, but when some of them cost up to 6 dollars a piece it is an expense test when you have to buy 16 of them.
 

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Giggity, Giggity... Alllright
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8 Posts
Hey all,
I know this is probably a bit late, but I talked to a guy a Bosch and asked about the Platinum spark plugs for the hemi. He states that Bosch tests the plugs on actual engines before releasing the plug to the consumers. So, I have already bought the plugs and hopefully will install them this weekend. I'll leave a new post to let everyone know how they work. By the way, the Bosch platinum plugs are part number 4314 for the two point (+2) plugs @ $3.99.
 

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Mopar Man
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118 Posts
Quagmire, I personally would (and did) install Copper Plugs. They are what the car was designed to operate with. Dodge informed me that none of the MDS Hemi engines use Platinum plugs.
 

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05 Magnum RT and 10 Challenger
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7,415 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I generally agree as I put in the copper plugs. It will be interesting to see quagmire's experience down the road with the platinums.
 

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Die hipster scum!
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15,111 Posts
Anybody catch DCX's rationale for not recommending the Platinums? I was just wondering if there was a particular reason why they feel the platinums are ill suited for the Hemi... :roll:
 

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LX Guru
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2,481 Posts
Once again, DCX didn't use the plat plugs because they would cost more, and with the copper you'r egetting them replaced more often. Same reason for factory filling the engine with dino oil instead of synthetic.
 

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LX Padiwan
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309 Posts
Fred said:
Once again, DCX didn't use the plat plugs because they would cost more, and with the copper you'r egetting them replaced more often. Same reason for factory filling the engine with dino oil instead of synthetic.
DCX uses the Copper cores to save money. It is not an engineering decision but an accounting decision. Other than design of the electrodes, like two or four electrodes on the Bosch +2 or +4 and the heat range, precious metal plugs only benefit is that they stay within gap for longer ignition cycles. The metals don't "erode" as quickly as standard plugs or copper core plugs. The "spark" is the same on any plug.

The only problem with the Bosch +2 or +4 design may be the effect of shielding the spark inside the electrodes. The standard single electrode type plugs should be OK.
 

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Premium Member
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709 Posts
Great post Professor of all things LX (BrilliantBlackHemi)!

I hadn't wondered into the process of changing these beast-o-plugs. This will be great reference when it’s time to change plugs.
 
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