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See ya in anotha life brotha
14,677 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

OK guys here is some of the info that I was passing along to people at the shindig. Ill also have links to the Store and the MOL ( Meguiars Online Forums )

First off what I was doing :

On my car as I was mostly up on the defects that I can actually fix ( swirls and small scratches ) I just applied a #7 Show Car Glaze for the event using a 8006 pad w/ the Porter Cable 7336 ( there is another version of teh same tool call the 7424 I think, and Meguirs sell it as the G-100 )

To use the Meguiars pads you need a #64-DA backing plate, and the pad, you can if you like use the 9006 pad as well for Glazes, it comes down a little to personal preferances.

Apply @ Speed 4 to 5 and work a small 18x18" area untill the product is almost clear but not completely dry. Then wipe of with fresh MF towel.

After that I could have laided down and LSP ( Last Step Product ) Wax, Sealant what ever you like. You can use NXT Wax, #26 Yellow, #21 Synthic Sealant, #20 Sealant, #16 Wax, Garys Paint Sealant. Just about anything, it just depends on what you like.

For the show I left it just the Glaze as it leaves a very rich deep and wet look which is nice for shows. It wont last long but it looks great at a show.

Now for BBH's hood there was a lot of scratches as best guess is the dealer monkey used a scrub brush on the paint when they wash it. I would have thought that I could get them all out. I didnt, I got about 90% on the finish just using the PC orbital BUT I did make a VAST improvment in the over all look and finish of the hood. It will need more work with a Rotory tool ( which I have but I am not skilled with yet ) to make it 100%.

I started with a small area for testing to see what I would need to fix the finish. I started with :

PC + 8006 Pad and #83 Dual Action Polish/Cleaner Speed 5 I did about 1x1' area and worked it in with about 10-15lbs of pressure the results were ok but there was still a lot of scratches, so I applied again and again it got a bit better, so on when a 3rd application at that point I was making no more progress. Next step was #80 Speed glaze on a new 8006 pad also at speed 5. After that all the scratches that were left were rather deep, so it was a matter of just making it look as good as I could. Next went on #7 Show Car Glaze which is a Pure Polish, no abrative materials and lots of oils that are good for your paint ( speed 5 on a 8006 or 9006 pad 9006 is prefered).

For the LSP I used some #21 Synth Sealant as I had not used it yet ( just got it actually ) PC set to Speed 3 and a fresh 9006 pad, work it into the paint for a consistant uniform finish, wait for it to dry ( Waxes and Sealants are the only products from Meguiars that HAVE to dry, all the other products you take off while still wet )

I use MF bonnets on a 7006 pad to remove the wax/sealant.

Now, if I was a little more confident in my skills with the Rotory I would have started with the 8006 pad and #83 at about 1500 rpm to work the deeper scatches out follow with PC and 83/8006 and 80/8006 7/9006 and wax.

When you are doing this you are removing very very small amounts of the finish, so you ALWAY want to start with the least abrasive action first. As you get more experance you will be able to get a good feel for what a finish will need, just remember not all paint is created equal.

Now for the links :

Meguiars Online
General Info on finish work, detailing and care, they also sell via a online store

Run by 2 car crazy guys, Mike Phillips also run the MOL site, and this is his personal/bussines site - His "How to Use the PC for ShowCar Results" DVD is OUTSTANDING, I highly suggest this for someone that wants to learn to use the PC or G-100 buffers

Auto Detailing Solutions
Good place online to get Meguiars products, good priceing and fair shipping

Suggested Viewing

How-To use the PC for Showcar Results If you really want to see how to use a PC to do a car right and see technique used live and give you a great idea how things sould LOOK and Arm Speed and all that other fun stuff GET THIS DVD !

Suggested Reading

Using the G-100 / PC 7336 to Remove swirls

Testing for presents of wax

Removing a Defect by hand w/ ScratchX

Product, Pad and Speed settings for the Porter Cable Dual Action Polisher

I think that covers a lot of it, Ill edit as needed for typos and stuff as I notice them. I hope this helps out with all the questions and stuff people had at the Shindig. If you have more post it here or PM me and I'll try to get to it asap.


05 Magnum RT and 10 Challenger
7,415 Posts
Now that I have some training, I need to study more, get some products, and finish the job Rob started. I already have a PC 7336 new in a box I bought a week ago.

All Black Everything!!!
6,115 Posts
no problem , just something i observed while reading the post..

MOL is great detailing forum, im a member there myself, and a dedicated megs user,,

by the way, #80, follow by #07, topped with Gold Class paste x2 looks great on brilliant black, the GC enhances that deep wet look the #07 and adds the protection needed to prolong the deep wet look of #07..thats the procedure i currently use on my mag, and it looks great..

#26 adds a nice deep reflective finish to brilliant black as well, i havent tried nxt on it yet, but im looking forward to trying #07, followed by #21 x2 and then #26 to top it...

First AWD LX in the 12's N/A
8,067 Posts
RobAGD said:
When you are doing this you are removing very very small amounts of the finish, so you ALWAY want to start with the least abrasive action first.
This one little bit of information is the absolute best to share with everyone. You've made a great post, but if people reading it only learn the one part I've quoted, you sir, will have saved people much aggravation.

What part should we make next???
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