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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
MY Supercharged 3.5l Chrysler 300 (4.0L STROKER)

~~~WARNING POST IS PICTURE HEAVY~~~
(Consolidating all threads into one build log. Also adding some new stuff)

First off thank you for taking a look at my thread, hope you
like what you see.

SO I've got a Supercharged 3.5l Chrysler 300. Performance Mods are as follows:


PERFORMANCE

o JBA Shorty Headers
o Custom Mandrel Bent True Dual Exhaust
o Straight Piped Converters
o SRT 4 Injectors (577)
o 3-Bar Map Sensor
o Platinum NKG Spark Plugs
o Ported Throttle body
o True Cold Air Intake (Mounted in Bumper area)
o Custom FMIC (Front Mounted Intercooler) Setup
o Upgraded PowerDyne Supercharger (The Super-PowerDyne rebuild by 928 Motorsports raises impeller speeds to 46,000 from 36,000. Its' supposed produce 20% more power across the board from stock).
o Sur-Grip Coated Supercharger Pulley (dropped from 3" to 2.75").
o GT500 Belt Tensioner
o GT500 SuperCharger Idler Pulley
o Gates RPM Micro-V Belt
o Custom Transmission Oil Cooler Setup
o Dual BT Catch Can Setup
o 3.91 Gears
o 42RLE to NAG1 (W5A580) Transmission Swap
o FTI Performance ESRT8300 Stall Converter
o Mopar Performance Transmission Contol Module

SUSPENSION & HANDLING
o Billet Tech Strut Tower Cover
o Mopar Performance Sway Bars
o Mopar Performance Track Pack Suspension
o Mopar Performance Strut Tower Brace
o Pursuit Big Brake Conversion (14.3"/13.8" rotors. Dual Piston Calipers)

AUDIO
o Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
o Fully Upgraded 10" DC Audio M2 XL Subwoofer
o DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
o Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
o Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
o Oversized CCA SkyHigh Car Audio Speaker wire
o Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box (Tuned to 32hz)
o Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
o MechMan 240a High Output Alternator
o Upgraded Electrical With oversized 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
o XS Power D3400 (with 6 Spot SHCA Battery Terminals)
EXTERIOR
o Paint Job (Cool Vanilla with Copper Pearl)
o 2008 SRT8 300 Front Fascia
o Grip Grille with (Custom Modded 2010 Chrysler 300 "s" Wing Emblem)
o 20" Brass Monkey HellCat Rims with Toyo Proxes 4 Plus (Staggered 315/35 & 275/40)
o Custom TruFiber Challanger Style Hood (Custom added mad eyes)
o Custom 2010 GT500 Style Rear Spoiler
o Custom 2014 SRT8 300 Rear Diffuse
o Custom Rear Roof Spoiler
o Chrome OEM Handles
o Chrome OEM Mirrors
o 2014 300 Style Chrome Head Lights
o

INTERIOR
o 2006 Chrysler 300 Heritage Front Seats
o Diablosport Tinity T2 EX
o 2008 Chrysler 300 SRT8 Cluster Swap
o Mopar Analong Boost Gauge (Custom Mounted to Clock Area)
o AEM AFR Digital Gauge


A ton of money over the years... LOL I don't really care at this point. BUT basically I'm going for the vehicle to some of have the best options available with out going over board. Meaning i wanted to go with a single 10" sub not 2 15's. I went with staggered 20's not 24's. Anyways I'm trying to explain how I'm not going overboard with this re-build? While at the same time listing a list of parts on a V6 that is CLEARLY over killed.

Current mods that are being done are as follows:

o Inertia Motorsports 3.5l HO 1.2v Camshafts
o Inertia Motorsports 3.5l HO V6 Premium Big Valve Performance Heads
o Inertia Motorsports 3.5l HO V6 Ported Lower Intake
o 2008 4.0L Dodge Nitro Engine Swap
o Custom EGR Delete
o Custom CNCd Lower Intake Manifold Spacer
o TranZformer Shift Kit
o NoWeeds Exhaust Diverter System



  • [*=left]
    [*=left]GT500 Belt Tensioner
    [*=left]Gates RPM Micro-V Belt
    [*=left]Custom Transmission Oil Cooler Setup
    [*=left]Dual BT Catch Can Setup
    [*=left]3.91 Gears
    [*=left]42RLE VLP to NAG1 (W5A580) Transmission Swap
    [*=left]2015 Charger Pursuit package BIG BRAKE Upgrade. (Dual Piston Calipers vented 14.5" front rotors and 13.8" rear rotors)


AUDIO


  • [*=left]Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
    [*=left]Fully Upgraded 10" DC Audio M2 XL Subwoofer
    [*=left]DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp ) Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
    [*=left]Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
    [*=left]Oversized CCA SkyHigh Car Audio Speaker wire
    [*=left]Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box (Tuned to 32hz). Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
    [*=left]Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
    [*=left]MechMan 240a High Output Alternator
    [*=left]Upgraded Electrical With oversized 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
    [*=left]PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery
    [*=left]XS Power D3400 (with 6 Spot SHCA Battery Terminals)

EXTERIOR


  • [*=left]2008 SRT8 300 Front Fascia
    [*=left]Grip Grille with (Custom Modded 2010 Chrysler 300 "s" Wing Emblem)
    [*=left]20" Chrome SRT8 Challanger Replicas
    [*=left]Custom TruFiber Challanger Style Hood (added mad eyes)
    [*=left]Custom 2010 GT500 Style Rear Spoiler
    [*=left]Custom 2014 SRT8 300 Rear Diffuser
    [*=left]Custom Rear Roof Spoiler
    [*=left]Chrome OEM Handles
    [*=left]Chrome OEM Mirrors
    [*=left]2014 300 Style Chrome Head Lights
    [*=left]Billet Tech Strut Tower Cover
    [*=left]Mopar Performance Sway Bars
    [*=left]Mopar Performance Track Pack Suspension
    [*=left]Mopar Performance Strut Tower Brace


Currently Pending Mods



  • [*=left]Mopar Performance TCM
    [*=left]FTI 3000 Stall Converter
    [*=left]Inertia Motorsports 3.5L HO V1.2 Camshaft


  • [*=left]Inertia Motorsports 3.5L HO V6 Premium Big Valve Performance Heads
    [*=left]Inertia Motorsports 3.5L HO V6 Ported Lower Intake
    [*=left]2008 4.0L Dodge Nitro Engine
    [*=left]Custom CNC'd Lower Intake Manifold Spacer
    [*=left]Custom EGR Delete
    [*=left]New Style LED Bar Tail Lights
    [*=left]TranZformer Shift Kit
    [*=left]NoWeeds Exhaust Diverter System


~~~NEWEST UPDATE ON PAGE 3; POSTS #39 & #40~~~


 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
OK so I have a 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited which I bought back
in December of 2011.

Here are a few pics of it at the dealership






It has a really nice tan leather interior with a light wood
grain. Which Im told is apparently rare and no one can tell me the name of the
color.






Here are a few up close pictures of the woodgrain







Then came the mods. tasteful, not over the top. Its not 100%
done yet but Im going for a beefy / sporty look. All I lack is a SRT 8 front
lip, trunk lip and AAC Halos. MAYBE some stripes. The mods consist of: Grip
Grille with a custom modded 2010 Chrysler 300 "s" Wing Emblem (silver Chrysler
ribbons rather than the OEM gold ones, 20" Chrome Challenger rims, Chrome
Handles, Chrome Mirrors, Darker window tint.
















Then I finnal got my exhaust done. Custom mandrel bent dual
exhaust consisting of single FlowMaster Super 40 and 2 4" chrome resonated tips.
I'll get some underbody pictures next time I lift it up on the rack at work.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
A few minor mods where added. WeatherTech FloorLiner floor
mats. These things are great. I live in west Texas... dust, dirt rocks and all
kinds of wild **** get tracked into my car on a daily basis. These mats help
protect my carpet as well and make clean up a snap. Not to mention these mats
looks great as well. There are only 2 down sides... One, they only come in 3
colors (Beige , Light Grey and Black). And Two, they cost $99 per set
(pair)

Front





Rear





Anyway, I finally got my car back and my car audio build kicked
up again. Im going for more of a SQL build this time around. The setup is one DC
XL m2 10" on a DC 2.0k (1 ohm final load) It has an 8 speaker bose factory
system ,u-connect and sirrus radio. That being said, I didn't want to mess with
the factory speakers just yet. Add a RF BLD (3Sixty.2) to beable to add the sub
stage for now. Anyway, this is what I came up with;



The reason for the baffle being that way is so that it can be
flush mounted to the mini-wall. Which will seal it all off from the trunk area.
Here are the specs: (inches)

Volume
12" H * 10" W * 29.5" D = 1.44618� ft

Port
10.5" H * 2" W = 21in� with a port length of 33.625" (which is
about 33hz)

Sub will only get rated power @ 1 ohm off the DC 2.0k so with
the Volume of 1.44618� ft - .13402� ft of 45s and port displacement - .18� ft of
sub displacement. The sub should be seeing 1.13216� ft after displacement.

Sorry that I didn't take any pics of actual "building" but I got
in the zone and didn't stop. Plus my camera was with my relatives that when on
vacation BUT it turned out better than I expected.
Upgraded all the stock wires with Knu Flex 1/0. I need to
upgrade the stock battery eventually.




Added a run of Knu Flex 1/0 from the alt to the battery.




I found a stock grommet that allowed me access to the engine
bay.



Haha finally got my DC XL m2 10" with all the fixin's in. Rusty
even signed it for me. I couldn't wait to slap it in!!. Took these pics whith my
cell phone while at work.





So then I got my DC 2.0k in finally. And It looked sick!




 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I added a plexi glass back to the DC 2.0K.









I then added holes for air flow.








Then I added 2 PC fans to the plexi-glass back for even more
airflow.







I was going to go this route with the trunk but I eneded up not
liking the over all look. Plus I wanted to show off the plexi back.





I also scratched the red port idea.





This ended up being a much better route. It gave the trunk some
much needed sex appeal.





Added a plexiglass back, drilled holes and added 2 70 mm fans
for better airflow.



The left fuse goes from the XS D3100 to the DC 2.0k. The right
fuse goes from the XS D3100 to stock battery. (I even left room for dual inputs
in the future)



With the way I mounted the XS D3100 I can still gain access to
the stock battery with ease.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
And now the box which is sealed off from the trunk. I hate rattling trunks. (the flash makes the carpet's color more dramatic than it really is)









Here are some pics without flash in the sun light.





Oh yeah and here is what it looks like behind the trunk wall. there is another wall right behind it with 2 x 4's spacing it apart. the amp fits right in between them 2 x 4's. I recycled a 1/4" "pecans for sale" sign to make my trunk wall.. its good wood so sue me haha.....





 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I added factory trunk carpet to the trunk lid. Makes it 100 times better in my opinion.



Little bit of an update. added a few more mods. ( SRT8 Front Fascia, SRT8 Style Trunk Lip, Show-n-Go License Plate Bracket, Red Fender Stripes and Painted the Calipers to match. )




















 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ditched the DC 2.0k and replaced it with a DC 3.5k with dual inputs. Re-did the trunk wall and added Plexiglas backing to the DC 3.5k. I also added cooling fans to the wall. Mainly because I couldn't fit any fans on the DC 3.5k itself. Took out my Factory 750cca battery and but my XS D3100 in its place. As well as adding five Exide deep cycle batteries (same tech as optima just different patents)

How the trunk usually looks with my tool kit in it



without tool kit



amp guts shots




Fuse holders for the positive dual inputs leads ( close to amp )



negative and positive dual inputs (leading to the battery bank below)



cooling fans



I didn't pull any punches this time around electrical wise. haha....... As you can see I added five Exide spiral tech deep cycle batteries (same tech as optima, just different patents). Each negative and positive has two 1/0 leads going to and from each post. I beat the spare tire area flat and Great Stuff foamed them into place. That black thing in between the bottom to batteries is a piece of leather. The negative and positive there are kinda close so I just put it there "just in case".



The black wire on the Positive side of the XS D3100 is the 1/0 Knukonceptz running to the alternator. The light red one next to that is the factory 1/0 that also runs to the front of the car and splits off before the alternator. ( Don't worry about that black tape lol.. its just temporary.. The D3100 sits a little high its just for safety. I'm working on something more permanent.)



The battery bank starts at the top right hand Exide battery (positive and negative are rand from that battery to the D3100) and ends at the bottom right battery which is also where the amp dual inputs are as well. ( I didn't fuse any of the batteries due to them being so close.. That should be fine yeah? Or should I at least fuse near the D3100 and the Exide?) There are two fuses on the alternator lol... Don't worry.



I also replaced my Stock alternator with a MechMan 240a alternator. According to the testing paper it does "142a at low rpm speeds and 252a at high rpm speeds." I could defiantly tell the difference as soon as I started the vehicle. The alternator on my 300 is on the bottom.. No worries, I have a car lift at work at my disposal muhahahahaha.







Also when I was re-doing the system I locked myself out of my trunk.... So I had to kick the front side of the box to get into the trunk and pop the trunk lid. Which in turn broke and I had to redo the front side of the box and the mini-wall. I'll get pictures of it later today. It needs to be re-sealed but I ran out of great stuff. Ill re-do that this weekend. Either way the single DC 10" m2 XL defiantly gets down. Quite a bit difference in loudness as well.






 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

We'll I got my hood in and been working on it. Got the custom eyelids moulded onto the hood. Did a little reshaping and test fitting last night. Seems to be coming along smoothly.

During the first test fit their was quite a bit off. So I had to sand down a bit on the eyelids.







Then I popped it on the hood to do a tad bit of test fitting. every thing line up pretty nicely after that.





Then I slapped some more kitty hair on the back of the eyelids to add strength. Now to let that dry and sand it later today.







I'm one of them type of people that over think things a lot.. lol. I have to have it perfect and I have to know how what it will look like haha.That being said I got a small update tonight. Did some more work on the eyelids.



I got on the sander a bit too much on the passanger side. Thats' ok. fiberglass and resine to the rescue!!

Looks ugly at the moment but don't you worry it will come around



NOW for the Driver's side. Damn near perfect if I do say so myself.




 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Did some more sanding, trimming and smoothing out over the weekend. I think I got it pretty smooth haha. only issues I noticed was the corner near the eye on the left needs smoothed out.​









OK so yesterday after a little more smoothing things out... I cleaned the bottom side off and Degreased/DEwaxed it. Then ran a terry cloth over it to prep for paint!



PAINT!! OH Snap... its on. Painted just the bottom side. Will do the top side today after work.



And while I was at it I also painted some of my under the hood bling... haha...



strut mount covers



Modded Infinity G35 engine cover... its gunna look sick with its 100% done. It had an oil fill hole that didn't line up to my 3.5L but I took care of that by filling it in. I also filled in the Infinity emblem. Im still debating over paint the "v6 3.5" torch red or gloss black. Also Im debating over painting the raised section of the cover black. Keep in mind, the hash marks will be torch red. What are your guys thoughts??



sexy all coolant tank!!





Top side was painted today at lunch by my buddy. I came over and snapped a quick picture.



I got off work a little bit late so sorry for the night time pictures... Ill get some better ones tomorrow. **** looks mean tho haha. Also I decided against painting the stripes.. just in case I ever want to take them off. Ill be getting some new vinyl stripes applied.




I got most of my under the hood bling installed as well.





Still need to decide if i want the factory fuse box cover painted or not.



Eww... my coolant bottle looks terrible.


But not to worry!! This one will be going in as soon as my stainless lines come in. Fresh coolant, new lines and new sexy coolant tank!




 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)

Ok so I finally upgraded my stock speakers. I decided to go with some Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs. Fronts are TS-D1702C and the rears TS-D1702R.



I got this powering my front and rear speakers. Its a Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 mini amp. Pretty powerful for as small as it is haha.






Here are the fronts TS-D1702C. Pretty solid set of speakers for the price.




Now compare them them my stock 6x9's haha...

This is how I snaked my wire through the molex connector. Coat hangers and electrical tape ftw.



The rears are TS-D1702R and they'r pretty nice. They're 6 3/4" as well.



 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got the fronts TS-D1702C wired up and mounted.





Mounted the the tweets in the sail area on the doors.





I mounted the Rockford Fosgate PBR300x4 mini amp behind the trunk wall. Looks like a bit of a cluster but it works for now lol.





I ditched the stock Head unit for a Nice SQ deck. Its an Eclipse CD3200. Looks sexy and works great. Tested it with my DD-1 and maxed out at 80 its gets a clean undistorted signal.





 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Well i got the supercharger back from paint. I must say it does looks good all assembled. Painted it cool vanilla to match the car.​




OK I decided to go ahead and tackle this install this weekend. Im still waiting on a few other things to go with an intercooler setup but for now Ill just install the kit as intended. I already have a true cai so I didn't need to uninstall the air box assembly. So I started with taking the plenum off.​




I made sure to cover the intake with some rags so that dirt and debris wouldn't fall off into the engine. I held the plenum up and out of the way with a ratchet strap. That way I could start tackling the spark plugs and injectors.​


Got the old plugs out and for only 58k on the clock it had some nasty ass plugs!!​


Out with the old and in with the new NGK plugs! I gaped these to .032 peR what Brent Hughes suggested.


If your worried about torque specs grab yourself one of these handy devices. I love it, no more guess work.​


Next I took out the fuel rail and got ready to swap out the injectors.​


SRT4 injectors​


I took all the old one off.....​


Then I installed the SRT4 injectors.​



I then buttoned it all back up and installed the new 3 bar map sensor.





Once that was all done I took out the stock radiator reservoir.



Next I installed the relocation tank and ran all the hoses.



OK SO....... I got it all back together. Here are some pics. Only thing that is missing is a few BT goodies but that will come later on.





Also here are a few minor additions I've made. (Plates and a couple stickers) The car was a bit dirty.. So don't mind the dirt. All the stickers are made of reflective vinyl... So at night with the light hits them they reflect. Kind of like cop car decals





I custom made these "Chrsyler 300" logos to mimic the looks of the old script emblems.


 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Took off this stock idler pulley


and installed the 3 1/2 idler pulley that comes with the kit

Then came the fun part running all the hoses and and tubing.

Mounted the vacuum block and ran all the hoses.

Boost gauge line ran through the hood latch cable grommet hole. (next to Brake Booster)

Mounted the blow off Valve section.

Almost done!! Just waiting some glue to dry on my boost gauge.... SO I figured Id take a break and post my progress.


After dialing installing everything I took it out on a test drive.

1/4 mile 15.86 @ 90 and 0-60 @ 7.78



 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well I've been working on the car again. I recently just install this setup, seems to run pretty good. The intercooler is a Tredstone z type. I couldn't find the one I wanted in the dimensions I needed so I worked with what I had. All the connections had to be fabbed up but I managed to get every thing how I wanted it to fit. On with the pictures.....



With this setup I only had to trim the foam a tad bit. It required no timing of the crash bar. I do however have to make a custom mounting bracket.


Kind of a tight fit but everything worked out.



I had to remove the washer fluid reservoir and relocate the power steering reservoir.



Remade part of the engine cover bracket so that it would support the weight of the intercooler piping. Also added a bracket to hold the piping above the ABS module. If you look closely you can see I moved the location of the horns as well.



With the help of a horn bracket the horns were relocated to the passenger side frame.



I have the Air filter bracket attached to the clamp's bolt. Worked out quite well to be honest. Don't mine the dirty air filter I have a new one on the way.



The inlet and outlet of the supercharger is looking smooth with all this stainless steel.





This is pretty much it for now. I have a few things that I'm getting repainted. Ill take more pictures as thing progress.



And here is some under the hood goodies







OH yeah I also has the cats gutted and re-welded a piece of pipe inside them. Straight pipe but looks like it has convertors. Besides the paint and the sound you can't even tell lol.





Last but not least I ran it on the highway real quick but im maxing out at about 5.08 psi. Take into consideration that I have a 4spd transmission.... but I was maxing out at 7.83 psi before the intercooler.

1/4 mile 15.54 @ 91.5 and 0-60 @ 7.46

 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well I have been working on a few things, this little addition to the rear bumper is one of them. First things first, here is an older picture just for comparison to show what it looked like before.



Its not 100% done but here is my progress thus far.

Plastic welded the defuser to the rear bumper





Next I hit it with a little bondo and sand paper



More bondo and sanding



Slap some paint on there and it almost good to go



Then I reinstalled it back on the car. Its not 100% but it turned out pretty decent. I also installed some mud flaps and have them painted as well.



Snow finally let up and I was able to finish off the rear bumper check it out.



Turned out rear good in my opinion



Also add these to the fenders. They're the Hellcat fender emblems. Fit my theme pretty well.



You can also see that the stripes are not a 100% solid color. They're actually reflective, kinda like cop vehicle decals.

 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Long story short I originally bought stuff from an 2006 3.5l HO Charger which was all incorrect for my 2008! DUH! right lol..... I'm making the TCM harness from Mopar pigtail. I had no clue about Mopar parts they're very hard to look up. Maybe the pigtails are sort of universal? The pigtail's pins are correct. Here is what I could find out. The first two pictures with the TCM shows what I believe the pigtail connecters should look like. I got these pictures off the internet. The last picture with the pigtail connectors I have and they are a bit different. They have the correct pin layout but the overall shape is lacking. With the way they're shaped it appears that they wouldn't stay clipped in. But I found out the connecter appears to have a hole in it that accepts another pigtail connection for the can bus + and - wires. Maybe my Issues will show the next person what not to do lol.




Had to change out the shifter of course



But clearly I had the incorrect one. Notice I=how its too small. that's that 2006 vs 2008 crap lol.



Needed to actually have this one

The connector to the shifter was different. Main reason for this because they went too WIN Keys (Wireless Ignition Module) Workshop manual helped a little but it was for pre 2008. Wired it all up and it was good to go.


















Transmission crossmember mount that was on my car seemed to show it was universal (Has holes for both transmissions) but ended up not being 100%. This was 2006 vs 2008 thing again... lol.



Transmission's pan also needed to be replace due to the NAG1 transmission mounts to it.





So I had to make some adjustments. Had to make these spacers to get it to work. Heavy DUTY!



Well since I have an open rear end I had to modify the driveline. The rear have is had to be the original and the front half needed to be fro the new transmission. Reason for this is the mounting coupler isn't the same. 3 bolt vs 4 bolt.







Also the driveline was slightly wider and needed to be trimmed to fit the mount.



 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
Then here came the SUSPENSION UPGRADE! Mopar Super Track Pack and Mopar Sway bars. The kit comes with Bilstine Shocks and Springs.





Out with the old rears and in with the new.



Out with the old fronts and in with the new



Then a fellow member run2jeepn put me on to a place that had some Pursuit package calipers on the cheap. SO I had to man..... these things are HUGE!

New PURSUIT calipers are on the left and the old stock ones are on the right









Here are the old sets. Front rotors are 12.6" vented and the Rear rotors are 12.6" solid rotors. Single piston calipers all around.



The Pursuit fronts are vented 14.5" rotors and the rear rotors are vented 13.8" rotors.

Front pursuit vented





Rear vented pursuit vs solid stock











The Pursuit fronts are vented 14.5" rotors and the rear rotors are vented 13.8" rotors. Turned out really good





I guess I didn't take pictures of the rears lol - Oh well Ill get some later.

 

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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Well I wanted a change of Wheels and wanted to go bronze so I tested out some bronze AutoWrap sprayable vinyl in a can. It has a flack to it! Man that stuff is pretty nice. They held up to 3 hail storms while being used.







Tested them out. turned out pretty good. this was before the big brake upgrade.





Played with some emblems as well





I liked the color so much I ended up buying some Bronze Hellcat rims.





I went staggered 275 in the front and 315 in the rear. NO rubbing issues at all. Nor do they extend too far out from the body. Plus they go good with the mud flaps lol





Here is the clearance, Its close but not an issue.



 
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