[wasp392]

Hey guys. I'm new to the dodge community but have been trying my best to chuck cars left and right around the race track for the last 20 or so years (crap that just sunk in)

i have a dedicated track car, but it doesn't mean that I won't take this new 16 SRT 392 Charger out for some laps. Have you guys found any specific weak links in the new chassis? Any must do bushings or things like the ps cooler that translate over to the newer cars.Tires, Pads, lines and fluids are on order for me for track days, and actually I like a hotter pad for the street and run light weight track pads on trophy brakes on my last daily.

so far most of my reading have found tips and tricks for the drag strip, which doesn't really interest me much.

Depends on how far you wanna take it. But if it's for an occasional track day I'd just concentrate on the chassis first. Subframe connectors, front and rear strut braces. I wouldn't change the sway bars since the 15+ SRT has bigger sway bars already. Instead, I'd get the adjustable links. Then I'd swap the brake lines for some stainless steel ones, upgrade to dot 4 brake fluid, and get a set of front carbotech racing pads and dedicated rotors ( I really like the oem ones) to swap before going to the track. The rear brembos are just fine. No need to change them imo. Get some sticky tires ( if you can get dedicated 18" lightweight wheels wrapped with some nitto nt01s then I'd do that. Finally lower the car. I like H&R springs. If you afford some coilovers then by all means do it. The 393 already have oil coolers from the factory and upgraded power steering unlike the pre 12s where you definitely needed to upgrade that. I've been tracking my car for the last 4 years and the above suggestions are just fine unless you wanna go hardcore. Then we're talking control arms and the whole nine yards. These cars do extremely well at the track events until you get up there in competition levels. Also a tune will help you with keeping it cooler. But it's a little costly with the 15+ model years due to the fact that you'll need an unlocked pcm to start with.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fifty]

Thanks for the detailed response!!!
i have a couple questions:
1) you mentioned 18 inch wheels. I'm not sure I can fit 18's over those huge 6 piston front brakes. If so, then awesome!!!
2) coilovers are out on this car. The wife won't appreciate me getting rid of the adjustable bilsteins. I'll look into possible springs if decent rubber just makes the suspension to catapult (lol technical term). Subframe connectors I will definitely look into and get. Off for the search!

 

[wasp392]

Thanks for the detailed response!!!
i have a couple questions:
1) you mentioned 18 inch wheels. I'm not sure I can fit 18's over those huge 6 piston front brakes. If so, then awesome!!!
2) coilovers are out on this car. The wife won't appreciate me getting rid of the adjustable bilsteins. I'll look into possible springs if decent rubber just makes the suspension to catapult (lol technical term). Subframe connectors I will definitely look into and get. Off for the search!

Oh yeah. I forgot about them 6 piston brakes. No the 18s won't clear the calipers.
19s would. There are companies that make custom make them. A couple if you want to check them out are forgestar and MRR. I have the MRR FS01s.

Pettys garage subframe connectors is what I have plus many of their other parts. Check them out.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Fifty]

I well better about a flow forged ("spin cast") than the cast factory repo's...
id love a set of forge star if I could swing a set, or even better if they have a wheel that matches the stickers in 20x11...

this car really really really needs as much rubber out back as possible.

 

[392WLCHR]

Depends on how far you wanna take it. But if it's for an occasional track day I'd just concentrate on the chassis first. Subframe connectors, front and rear strut braces. I wouldn't change the sway bars since the 15+ SRT has bigger sway bars already. Instead, I'd get the adjustable links. Then I'd swap the brake lines for some stainless steel ones, upgrade to dot 4 brake fluid, and get a set of front carbotech racing pads and dedicated rotors ( I really like the oem ones) to swap before going to the track. The rear brembos are just fine. No need to change them imo. Get some sticky tires ( if you can get dedicated 18" lightweight wheels wrapped with some nitto nt01s then I'd do that. Finally lower the car. I like H&R springs. If you afford some coilovers then by all means do it. The 393 already have oil coolers from the factory and upgraded power steering unlike the pre 12s where you definitely needed to upgrade that. I've been tracking my car for the last 4 years and the above suggestions are just fine unless you wanna go hardcore. Then we're talking control arms and the whole nine yards. These cars do extremely well at the track events until you get up there in competition levels. Also a tune will help you with keeping it cooler. But it's a little costly with the 15+ model years due to the fact that you'll need an unlocked pcm to start with.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah sweet; Great info, I'll heed your advice as well! Second track day at the Roval is coming up, bought new tire (Continental Extreme Contact DW's) and some EBC Blue's for the front! Contemplating on getting stainless lines before as well! What's your input on those?! I do eventually want to get both front and rear strut braces; with H&R springs!

Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums

 

[Fifty]

Have you any opinions on the different chassis braces out there? Some are aluminum and some are steel, for the front strut tower brace, as for the under chassis bracing, I haven't really made a list of the different companies to see who is making what and the quality difference.

 

[bobsmyuncle]

You have a dedicated track car. Don't waste any money on the Dodge.

As you should know ANY car can go around the track and some of the most fun can be had in the slowest cars. These cars are surprisingly good on the road course but they are primarily limited by size and weight which you cannot engineer your way around.

Take it out just the way it left the dealership and have a blast.

Save the money for tires on the track car.

 

[Fifty]

But its so hard!! Lol!

I wish I could fit 18's... I have plenty of conti slicks sitting around.

 

[wasp392]

Ah sweet; Great info, I'll heed your advice as well! Second track day at the Roval is coming up, bought new tire (Continental Extreme Contact DW's) and some EBC Blue's for the front! Contemplating on getting stainless lines before as well! What's your input on those?! I do eventually want to get both front and rear strut braces; with H&R springs!

Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums

The SS brake lines is a must if you're going to track your car on more than a few occasions. Unfortunately you won't feel the difference or benefit on the street (fluid just doesn't get that hot). At least I didn't.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[wasp392]

Have you any opinions on the different chassis braces out there? Some are aluminum and some are steel, for the front strut tower brace, as for the under chassis bracing, I haven't really made a list of the different companies to see who is making what and the quality difference.

As far as quality goes they're all great and do the job. The difference would be in the design imo. Id recommend pettys garage or razors edge for strut braces. I went with Mopar braces. But if I had to do it over again I'd go with pettys garage. I do have the pettys garage bolt on subframe connectors and the difference was noticeable. But I prefer the ones that are welded on. Unfortunately I didn't do a lot of research when I started modding my car. Didn't know I was gonna get hooked on racing. Lol

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Trump_Rises]

Any recommendations on a shorter tire size to help gear ratio on an 18 inch wheel?

 

[wasp392]

Any recommendations on a shorter tire size to help gear ratio on an 18 inch wheel?

How wide are the 18s? And on what car? Model year and trim

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Trump_Rises]

06 magnum rt awd, stock 18s by 7