Where in the car is the receiver for the key fob door locks located? Under adverse conditions, like weak fob battery, frozen lock, so I can't insert the key, where would be the best place to attempt unlocking with the fob? I often have to wace the fob around to unlock, especially from the back. (Yesterday while I was out I could not unlock the car with my fob and could not insert the key because the keyhole was frozen. Got a ride home and today came back with a fresh battery in my fob and some lock de-icer. The fob still did not work, but the de-icer did.)
oldyellr
Joined
·
16,591 Posts
You're over-thinking this...it would be rare indeed that a passive mechanism, in this case a fixed / on-board (PCB, circuit-level copper traces on board) antenna system would be the issue - either on the RKE or the remote key (transponder) side.
Range issues are many and varied and can be the transponder key or the RF environment around you.
Or, it could be the PWR supply side within the key; our keys are well-known for failing to operate properly / consistently if they have been abused. Dropping a key just once can cause one of the solder joints to fail (dropping it over and over is a really bad idea) Not immediate failure as there are other negative-side solder joints to ground (GND) within the PCB.
Side note: waving it around the key to improve antenna reciprocity is hit-or-miss. Putting the key against your chest - then pressing buttons is more effective as the other side of any antenna is a GND plane (every EMI / RIFI travelling through the ether has an X and Y component). Your body acts as an effective GND plane for carrier frequencies in the ISM band.
Range issues are many and varied and can be the transponder key or the RF environment around you.
Or, it could be the PWR supply side within the key; our keys are well-known for failing to operate properly / consistently if they have been abused. Dropping a key just once can cause one of the solder joints to fail (dropping it over and over is a really bad idea) Not immediate failure as there are other negative-side solder joints to ground (GND) within the PCB.
Side note: waving it around the key to improve antenna reciprocity is hit-or-miss. Putting the key against your chest - then pressing buttons is more effective as the other side of any antenna is a GND plane (every EMI / RIFI travelling through the ether has an X and Y component). Your body acts as an effective GND plane for carrier frequencies in the ISM band.
Joined
·
16,591 Posts
The door lock mechanism; that could be the key tumble, pushrod, solenoid etcetera...tumbler could have frozen - but only if water was forced into the mechanism and quickly froze. The solenoid that locks / unlocks would not be affected.
Also, its unlikely that all four doors would fail in any one or more of the aforementioned modes simultaneously.
Also, its unlikely that all four doors would fail in any one or more of the aforementioned modes simultaneously.
Joined
·
16,591 Posts
There's also the issue of lead failure(s) at the door / frame cable interface...
Make doubly-sure you can return any key FOB you elect to buy online;
Make doubly-sure you can return any key FOB you elect to buy online;
- More often than not they can not be programmed to the SKREEM - even if you have two (mandatory) existing and fully operating keys that are already recognized
- Dealers will not entertain programming aftermarket keys.
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
