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EEOCCharger
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've searched high and low for some good instructions on how to upgrade the stereo to an after market on my Magnesium Pearl 2006 Dodge Charger R/T with 6 speaker 276 watt amp. I decided to do it myself. It is fairly simple, I had to tie in to the speaker wires after the factory amp. The amp is located to the left of the steering wheel behind the access panel directly under the steering wheel. The amp in my ride is silver and looks like a regular amp without RCA's. There are two plugs going to the amp, both plugs contain speaker wire. If you don't mind your stereo being able to turn on with the key out you can hook the power and ground wires to the existing factory harness behind the radio. Just get a harness adapter from your local stereo shop. I used the one I had wth my 04 Ram. I just broke out the pins that didn't match up to power and ground. Those are the two pins on the far left upper and lower and on the far right upper and lower. I ran speaker cable down to the amp and spliced into the harness at the amp, leaving the amp unplugged.

Here are the speaker wire colors and their polarity:

Both front deck speaker wires are connected to the large plug of the amp. I don't know what the other wires were for. I just left it unplugged after tapping into the harness.

LF Deck 3 1/2" Gray w/orange stripe + gray w/yellow stripe - (connected to the large plug)
RF Deck 3 1/2" Gray w/light green stripe + gray w/dark green stripe - (also connected to the large plug)

LF Door 6 x 9 Gray w/purple stripe + gray w/yellow stripe - (connected to the small plug)
RF Door 6 x 9 Green w/yellow stripe + green w/purple stripe - (connected to small plug)

RR Deck 6 x 9 Green w/dark gray stripe + yellow w/gray stripe - (connected to small plug)
LR Deck 6 x 9 Green w/brown stripe + green with light gray stripe - (connected to small plug)

If you want to really be sure access each speaker and look at the color of the wires and stripe (if any).

I checked the polarity based on the sound of the speaker after I wired to the harness and switching back and forth selecting what sounds best.

Sounds average with factory speakers. I will be adding aftermarket speakers in the future. I think I will look for some low watt high spl speakers to run off the head unit internal amp.

It totally kills that low bass of the factory system.

I am adding a 12" MTX sub today.

If anyone has any other suggestions like a good low watt high spl 6 x 9, please let me know.
 

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LX Newbie
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52 Posts
EEOCCHARGER said:
If you don't mind your stereo being able to turn on with the key out you can hook the power and ground wires to the existing factory harness behind the radio. Just get a harness adapter from your local stereo shop.
So are you saying that you have to manually turn the radio on and off instead of it operating off the ignition? If so, that sounds like an annoyance, and you also have it wired wrong if that's the case. You just need to find the ignition controlled 12VDC wire for your main power on the aftermarket radio.
 

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Mini Me!!!
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54 Posts
EEOCCHARGER said:
I've searched high and low for some good instructions on how to upgrade the stereo to an after market on my Magnesium Pearl 2006 Dodge Charger R/T with 6 speaker 276 watt amp. I decided to do it myself. It is fairly simple, I had to tie in to the speaker wires after the factory amp. The amp is located to the left of the steering wheel behind the access panel directly under the steering wheel. The amp in my ride is silver and looks like a regular amp without RCA's. There are two plugs going to the amp, both plugs contain speaker wire. If you don't mind your stereo being able to turn on with the key out you can hook the power and ground wires to the existing factory harness behind the radio. Just get a harness adapter from your local stereo shop. I used the one I had wth my 04 Ram. I just broke out the pins that didn't match up to power and ground. Those are the two pins on the far left upper and lower and on the far right upper and lower. I ran speaker cable down to the amp and spliced into the harness at the amp, leaving the amp unplugged.
Actually, Metra make a harness just for that, the amp bypass, they also make a harness with a PC board tied into it so you can retain your factory R.A.P. (Retainted Accessory Power). Here are part numbers and pricing.

1. In order to bypass the amp (factory), you'll need Metra part # 70-6504 (amp bypass harness), $14.50.

2. You can now keep the Retained Accessory Power (R.A.P.) feature with this harness, Metra part # XSVI-6502, price $61.95.

Hope that helps.
 
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