Installation and Testing
1. Using the saddle splice, connect and securely lock the six inch 18 gauge wire and the previously isolated 18 gauge brown/light blue striped wire on plug C1 of the PCM.
2. Strip and securely crimp the female barrel style push plug to the other end of the six inch 18 gauge wire.
3. Slip the original electrical tape cover back over the wires and, using electrical tape, securely re-tape (leaving just the six inch "pigtail" exposed) to look like the original installation.
4. Strip and securely crimp the male barrel style push plug to one of the speaker wires, making note of wire color or identifying mark. This will be the power wire going to the lighted switch. Do not plug in at this time.
5. Strip and securely crimp the connector with the ¼ inch hole or open horseshoe to the other speaker wire.
This will be the ground wire going to the lighted switch.
6. Connect this wire to the previously loosened or removed mount bracket bolt on the PCM. Tighten mount bolt.
7. Route the wires behind the fire wall support brace (the one the PCM is mounted to) and secure with nylon ties. The nylon ties will slide between the brace and the plastic cover mounted to the top of the brace. The last nylon tie should be place directly over the cable/grommet area. The only thing that should be visible are the nylon ties.
8. Using electrical tape secure the free end of the wire to the small 8-10 inch common screwdriver starting about 2 inches back from screwdriver blade. Note: Leave a little tape pigtail so you can easily remove the tape after feeding through the firewall.
9. Push screwdriver and wire through the firewall grommet. This will require a little force to puncture the grommet. Push in far enough to grasp wire from inside the car.
10. From inside the car under the dash, locate and remove tape from screwdriver. Pull remaining wire into car.
11. From under the hood, remove the screwdriver and push the soft center of the grommet back in place.
12. Route wire to the area where the switch is going to be mounted, being careful not to interfere with any moving parts under the dash. I routed over existing wire looms away from pedal/steering mechanisms.
13. Reinstall shiny metal panel.
14. Reinstall lower dash panel, making sure to hold wire between upper dash and lower panel right behind where the switch mount is going to be mounted. Reinstall trim strip.
15. Mount the switch mount using the previously drilled holes and two No. 8 sheet metal screws.
16. Route the wire through the hole in the switch mount.
17. Strip and securely crimp both wires using the two connectors that fit the back of the switch.
18. Connect both wires to their correct terminals. My lighted switch had 3 terminals: Supply Volts, On Acc., and Earth Ground. The previously identified power lead gets connected to the Supply Volts terminal, and the ground wire gets connected to the Earth Ground terminal. Do not hook anything to the center On Acc. Terminal.
19. Lightly and carefully pull the lower panel outward and push the excess wire back behind the panel. Secure the switch in the mount.
20. If battery was disconnected, reconnect it now. Reset various vehicle functions, as needed/required.
21. If you have a test lead, connect one end to the male barrel style push plug and the other end to the red "positive" terminal on the Forward Control Module (FCM) located in front of where you are working. Go in the car and activate the switch. The light should come on. Turn switch off and the light should go out.
22. Disconnect test lead and connect the male barrel style push plug to the female barrel style push plug on the exposed pigtail at the PCM.
23. Reinstall the PCM and its cover.
24. Go for a ride and try it out.