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Completed the testing a few minutes ago. I had continuity between C105 and Diode 2 location. No continuity between C105 and C1. While attempting to figure out why I discovered that the wire at the #20 location on C1 had corroded inside the plug thus breaking the connection. I stripped a small portion of the wire and tested continuity from the wire to C105, and it was good. So I think I have figured out the problem. My next question is can a kit be accuired to simply rewire/replace just the plug and slip on connectors? Would rather not have to replace the whole harness as it appears to be quite extensive. Fnkychkn, thank you so much for all the help. I'm certain I would not have found the problem without your guidance.
 

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Okay, something is messed up. Fnkychkn, while I was working on the continuity test I unplugged C104 in order to gain access to C105. In addition, while I was investigating the corroded wire issue I unplugged the gray plug next to C1 at the IPM in order to access the harness better. I had the battery dsconnected the whole time. It was the first thing and did and the last thing I completed. So my issue is now the car won't start. It turns over just fine but just won't start. Did I FUBAR something by unplugging these? So now I have gone from no heat to no running. Clearly not the right direction to be moving.
 

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Completed the testing a few minutes ago. I had continuity between C105 and Diode 2 location. No continuity between C105 and C1. While attempting to figure out why I discovered that the wire at the #20 location on C1 had corroded inside the plug thus breaking the connection. I stripped a small portion of the wire and tested continuity from the wire to C105, and it was good. So I think I have figured out the problem. My next question is can a kit be accuired to simply rewire/replace just the plug and slip on connectors? Would rather not have to replace the whole harness as it appears to be quite extensive. Fnkychkn, thank you so much for all the help. I'm certain I would not have found the problem without your guidance.
you can get most mopar connector repair kits through your dealer. look them up here.
Okay, something is messed up. Fnkychkn, while I was working on the continuity test I unplugged C104 in order to gain access to C105. In addition, while I was investigating the corroded wire issue I unplugged the gray plug next to C1 at the IPM in order to access the harness better. I had the battery dsconnected the whole time. It was the first thing and did and the last thing I completed. So my issue is now the car won't start. It turns over just fine but just won't start. Did I FUBAR something by unplugging these? So now I have gone from no heat to no running. Clearly not the right direction to be moving.
if you have a scanner/tuner, scan it for DTCs. if not, try the key dance method.
might have to recheck all involved connectors and look for corroded, bent or pushed out terminals.
 

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Did the key dance this moring, even before breakfast, thats how much this is bugging me. Okay, enough rambling. Thanks for the links, I have already looked up the information. Listed below are the codes that flashed and the information I've gathered from my research.

0627 - Fuel Pump Relay Circuit

0499 - nvld Canister Vent Valve Soleniod Circuit High

0406 - EGR (This I have know about, just haven't changed it yet because of whats involved.)

2122 - Throttle/Pedal Pos Sensor/Switch D Circ Low Input

2127 - Throttle/Pedal Pos Sensor/Switch E Circ Low Input

I did have the battery disconnected for about 3 hours yesterday while I testing the continuity test. Could this have contributed to the issue. Going out now to check fuses again. It was getting dark last knight when I was putting things back together.
 

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Well fuse #6 was fine. I will look at C105 connection tomorrow. In addition, I will research my remote start. Today I noticed an LED light on that has something to do with the valet mode and not allowing the car to start, but that is research something that can be done in the dark.
 

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Well it seems as though all the codes coming up have something to do with C105. Doubled checked plug today and all seemed good, no bent pins or gapped connectors. So I'm still perplexed as to what is going on with my car. In addition to the codes previously listed the ETC light is flashing now after trying to start the car. The search continues as I have been off work for about 10 weeks and can't afford to really deal with a stealership. With the ETC light coming on does that mean I need to reprogram the throttle?
 

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Well here is the lastest update on the car. I left the battery disconnected last night. Today I checked all the relays for both proper operation and continuity. They all checked out. Next I simply disconnected C105 and reconnected it. Hooked the battery back up and she fired right up. Checked for heater controls and they are working once more. No airbag light in the cluster. So all is good. Fnkychkn, once again THANK YOU!!!!!, without your guidance I would have been pulling my hair out by now. You are the man.
 

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Thank you for this thread and Pete for all the responses on here. I'm extremely confused at this point though because electrical stuff might as well be written in some alien language, I have a hard time understanding so please bear with me...

My heat works but my A/C does NOT work. My airbag light is on (instrument cluster). I have dual climate control. I have a Viper alarm that was installed last year. The problem did not start until the day I picked my car up from getting the amps installed for my audio. I did check fuse #40 which is good but I haven't check for power on anything. I also pulled out diode 2 but I'm not even sure what I'm looking at here. I'm just super confused and not sure what I need to do. I'm not a total dumbass but this electrical stuff just frustrates the hell out of me.
 

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Thank you for this thread and Pete for all the responses on here. I'm extremely confused at this point though because electrical stuff might as well be written in some alien language, I have a hard time understanding so please bear with me...

My heat works but my A/C does NOT work. My airbag light is on (instrument cluster). I have dual climate control. I have a Viper alarm that was installed last year. The problem did not start until the day I picked my car up from getting the amps installed for my audio. I did check fuse #40 which is good but I haven't check for power on anything. I also pulled out diode 2 but I'm not even sure what I'm looking at here. I'm just super confused and not sure what I need to do. I'm not a total dumbass but this electrical stuff just frustrates the hell out of me.
heater and fan work OK?
no cold air when AC on?
diode #2 was reinserted correctly (arrow pointing to spare tire)?
all symptoms started at same time?
 

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Heater and fan work fine. No cold air when AC on, but light comes on. Diode is inserted correctly. All symptoms started at the same time when I picked my car up from the audio shop.
 

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i'd start by checking their install to make sure they didn't tap into something they shouldn't have or crushed/chafed some wires.
Apparently my two problems are unrelated.

Found a massive A/C leak but can't diagnose where it's coming from because the Procharger unit is in the way of the compressor and lines.

Scanner found two codes, one of which I believe is unrelated. The codes are: U0176 - Lost communication with Right Side Satellite Acceleration Sensor 2, and B1660 - Front Fog Lamp Control Circuit High. I have a bad fog light so I know what that is but that should not be throwing an airbag light, so it has to be that sensor that is throwing the warning light.

Charger is still under warranty but the manager at the service center said he won't be able to have it done under warranty unless I bring it in minus the supercharger so they have access to the A/C stuff. Thanks for the support Pete, and if you happen to know if I can easily access whatever this sensor is let me know! Thanks!
 

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Out of curiosity have you confirmed the plugs are fully plugged into the hvac? The symptoms your describing can happen with hvac unplugged. But the odd thing is your saying the heat works..
I have not checked but I think the result of the freon charge is pretty definitive. A full pound of freon and almost immediately leaked out. Haven't got in there with a blacklight yet but I think it's pointless until I get the SC off and get a better look.
 

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Hi guys, I have a 2005 Magnum R/T and the blowermotor stopped to work and the airbag light is on (the light comes on when you "turn on" the blower and disapears when you shut it down)
This far I have tried toi change the blower motor and the resistor (didn´t help)
I have 12V to the blower motor but it doesn´t work, any ideas what it could be?

Thankful for Help =)
//Tommi
 

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Fnkychkn, I just wanted to say thanks for all the help. Ok I checked the fuses with a test light, 14 and 40 check out. My Owners Manual says that 14 is for my keyless entry and 40 is my power mirror. It lists fuse 41 as my Climate Control Module, this has no power. Fuse 27 is my Airbag and that has power. At this point I'm not sure if this helps or confuses me more. I'm hoping you can make some sense of it. Thanks.
@fnkychkn i think i have the same problem i can turn the blower motor on but i cant adjust the temp or the position in where i want the air to blow the rear defrost and ac button don't turn on
 
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