[leveil22]

Thanks Pete after rechecking in the daytime it was diode #2

 

[fnkychkn]

Thanks Pete after rechecking in the daytime it was diode #2

so it's working now?

 

[leveil22]

Yes sir thanks to you!

 

[mcushway]

Hope someone can help me out. I am having the same issue. Airbag light in Cluster is on and not heater controls. No A/C or rear defoster light. My car is a 2006 Chrysler 300 touring. Single climate controls. The problem started about a week ago. Just changed Diode #2 today with no change. I live outside of Chicago so I would like to get issue solved before it starts to get really cold. I do have a Viper remote starter which was already installed when I bought the car three years ago. Any help would be great. Thanks.

 

[fnkychkn]

check fuses 14 & 40 in rear fuse box.

 

[mcushway]

check fuses 14 & 40 in rear fuse box.

Checked all fuses, both front and rear fuse boxes. All are good. Thanks.

 

[mcushway]

Checked all fuses, both front and rear fuse boxes. All are good. Thanks.

Sorry read through my last post and it seemed as if it could be read that everything works fine, but that is not the case. Fuses are all good but still having the same issue. Sorry for any confusion. Anything else I can try? Thanks.

 

[mcushway]

Bump!!!!!!

 

[fnkychkn]

i know you said the fuses were ok but are they getting power? use a test lamp and check for power at fuses 14 & 40.

 

[mcushway]

Fnkychkn, I just wanted to say thanks for all the help. Ok I checked the fuses with a test light, 14 and 40 check out. My Owners Manual says that 14 is for my keyless entry and 40 is my power mirror. It lists fuse 41 as my Climate Control Module, this has no power. Fuse 27 is my Airbag and that has power. At this point I'm not sure if this helps or confuses me more. I'm hoping you can make some sense of it. Thanks.

 

[fnkychkn]

ok, yours is a late build '06. wired a little differently.

key off, check for power at run relay cavities 86 & 30. should be battery voltage.

 

[mcushway]

I will check this tomorrow and report the results.

 

[mcushway]

I checked the locations at 86 and 30 with my multimeter. Both locations are reading 12.75 volts with the power off.

 

[fnkychkn]

remove diode #2 (mark orientation for installation).
should be power on one of the terminals.
ground it to trigger the run relay.
if HVAC now works, you either have a bad diode or the FCM is not grounding the relay coil.

 

[mcushway]

Well I was so excited to try one more thing, but since its raining here and the wind is blowing at about 35 mph I think I will wait until tomorrow. Will let you know what I discover.

 

[mcushway]

Well the jumper worked. Heater/blower controls fire right up with the jumper in place. I had already replaced Diode #2 prior to posting anything in the forum. Since the part was less than four dollars thought it might be a cheap solution. The diode has a notch in it so its pretty diffulct to install it incorrectly. Took my dash apart this afternoon to see if my remote start might have been tapped into the power to heater controls, but it is attached directly to the ignition. So Fnckychkn I'm hoping you have something else to check.

 

[fnkychkn]

No diagram access from the fnkyfone. I'll check tomorrow morning.

sent from the fnky fone.

 

[fnkychkn]

test continuity from other terminal of diode #2 (the one with no power) to IPM (front fuse box) C1 connector cavity 20.

 

[mcushway]

I will test this later this morning and post my results.

 

[mcushway]

Deleted my last post, thought I messed something up. Anyway, ran test with no power (battery disconnected). Have no continuity between Diode #2 and the 20th pin position on the C1 plug.