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· Registered
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1,357 Posts
haha. Thanks Keith.

All i knows is, a house is top priority, even though I'm modding my car. I really need to get away from home.

ps- what struts are you running, and how much did you grab em for?
 

· Registered
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489 Posts
i replaced mine with koni's and the hard bounce front and soft rear went away... rides like i never lowered it.
 

· LX Something-or-Other
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243 Posts
I purchased lowering Springs off of eBay, and aftermarket shocks - Tokico, and something else (neither brand had both front and back, and I was not even interested in Monroe or other basic shocks), from some storefront I cannot remember right now, I could look it up.

Total was just over $300. A buddy and I did the work, was a pain, but worth it.

Beware of the DZ (dropzone) 1.8 inch drop, they dropped much further, well over 2 inches, I'm sure well over 2.5 inches in the 6 months they have been installed, otherwise they are just fine.
 

· The Rattling Rocket
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441 Posts
You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.
Unfortunately, this is what I used and wound up damaging the upper control ball joint.

I would strongly recommend you not use a puller and instead just strike the flat portion of the knuckle with a hammer, after having loosened and placed the nut at the end of the ball joint stud in order to protect the threads from an accidental hammer blow.
 

· Premium Member
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554 Posts
I agree that lowering the rear control arm is a royal PITA. Has anyone tried using a spring compressor to compress the spring enough to pull it out? Some car guys that I talk to acted like it was bad mojo to do it that way, though they don't give a clear answer why...

Anyways, I installed BCR coil-overs a couple of months ago and had to lower the rear control arm a couple of times. I found that a quick(er) way of getting the rear control arm bolt back in is to use two jacks, one in the center/right of the control arm and one under the knuckle. Then its just matter of raising and lower each jack to get the arm into position. If you get to a point were that holes match up, but not enough to get the bolt in, use a screwdriver (or something to fit) to hold the arm into place and adjust the position of the jacks, moving the one jack off of the knuckle and over to just left of the bolt hole:



Not sure if this helps, but it worked pretty good for me. Instead of using a gear puller or pickle fork, I suggest:



Harbor Freight sells them for under 20 bucks (search for ball joint tool) and its almost identical to the Miller tool (no retaining chain on the HF unit).

Hope this helps!
 

· Premium Member
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500 Posts
Start the bolt, front to back. Get it started, then take a pry bar and put in that opening on the bottom of the lower control arm facing towards the back of the car. Use a jack to lif up on the pry bar and align the hole. Then like ^^^^ said, use a impact and screw it in.
If this is for the rear then the bolt starts in the back and goes towards the front. Are you saying reverse it?

I have the lower control arm stuck right here.


I cannot for the life of me get it to line up. 2 days ive spent right here.
 

· MEDICATED AND MOTIVATED
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572 Posts
Lets see

I'm gonna be honest with you its been 2 years since i did this post and there is always a possibility i typo'd that...however if you have too go to a local car dealership like i did when i was tryin to see if exhaust and suspension would swap over from a charger and see if you can either find a charger or 300 in the same trim as yours and see how the bolt goes, front to rear or visa versa, and then do like i ended up having to do and use a punch and use a hammer and tap it in till it connects with the bolt and just give it a couple good pushes when your tryin to drill it back in and it should follow the punch and eventually work its way through and then bada bing your bolt is in and the punch will fall out....keep me posted.

Cam
 
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· MEDICATED AND MOTIVATED
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572 Posts
I cannot get the REAR Lower control arm to line back up, any suggestions?

Please ahhhhrrrgghhhh..
Use a punch thats about as big around as the bolt...maybe a lil smaller and tap it through on the opposite end as the end your trying to run the bolt in and let the bolt push the punch out and it should for the most part stay lined up together and SHIZZZAAMMMM...your back through the hole...maybe a lil WD-40 always works wonders too.

Cam
 

· Aussie 300c touring
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15 Posts
Thanks guys for this thread, it's been the fantastic help installing the springs in my 300c. The only things I'd like to add is, all i did to undo the upper balljionts on the front was a few solid hard hits in the flat "pad" cast into the peice the ball jiont bolts into. Came away on both sides quite easily. Do not hit the ball joint itself.

On the rear, I used the 2 trolley jack approach that beirutbob susgested. It worked a charm. The only hiccup was I snapped the little pivot/bellcrank thingy on the right hand side. I saw it earlier in the process but got a tad excited when I undid the lower control arm bolt. I'm not even sure wot it is, I'm thinking a trigger or sensor for the IRS Thanks again

Before, taken Nov 2009.


10 minutes ago
 

· dsm n.o. member
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1,099 Posts
may i ask what is the reason for trimming the bump stop?
 

· Registered
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859 Posts
Your shock travel just shortened the amount of the drop. Therefore, you will contact the bump stop much sooner than normal. Cutting it the same amount of the drop will make it just like stock.
 

· Burn some dust here. Eat my rubber!
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436 Posts
My father-in-law and I are going to attempt to install a set of Eibach pro kit springs here in the next week or two. He has the stands and hydro jack. Just need to pick up th spring compressor it looks like.
 
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