How-To Install Lowering Springs

162399 Views 114 Replies 71 Participants Last post by ENUF PWR, Mar 18, 2017

DMAG

Discussion Starter · Mar 26, 2005 (Edited)

compiled by snickle

Dodge Magnum SXT with 245/40-20 tires
Before picture:

1st step is to jack the car, support on jack stands and remove wheels:

Fronts:

Remove the upper sway bar link:

Then remove the bolt securing the upper A-arm and separate it with a pickle fork:

Tie the upper arm with a string for now, so as to keep the brake line from stretching:

Remove the top 3 shock mounting bolts, but leave one lightly attached to hold it in place, (also remove the lower shock mount, but its not pictured):

Remove the strut assembly as a whole, then use your spring compressor to tighten the springs for removal:

Old and new springs:

New spring reassembled:

Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 2

1 - 20 of 115 Posts

DMAG

Discussion Starter · #2 · Mar 26, 2005 (Edited)

Rears:

Remove the rear shock, it is held on by one nut/bolt on the bottom and two bolts on top:

Next remove the inner part of the lower control arm. Set a floor jack under to keep the spring from expanding and knocking the whole assembly loose when you remove the bolt

Here is the inner arm removed:

For info, a pic of the top of the shock, installed:

Rear spring comparison:

The rear spring is removed by gently releasing the jack holding the arm up. then place the new spring in its place.

Next, we need to disassemble the rear shocks to trim the bumpstops (not necessary on fronts)

Before:

Bump stop after:

Once again, reassemble everything in reverse and you are done!!!!

After picture:

Torque Specs from Badpenny:

FRONT

1) shock shaft: hold the shaft from turning, tighten retaining nut to 66 ft. lbs. (there is a special tool 9362 for this).
2) upper ball joint: hold stud from turning, tighten nut to 35 ft. lbs. +90 degrees.
3) stabilizer link: hold stud from turning, tighten nut to 108 ft. lbs.
4) lower shock mounting bolt: tighten to 128 ft. lbs. with car on ground at ride height.

REAR

1) spring link bolt at crossmember: tighten nut to 80 ft. lbs.
2) shock absorber upper: tighten bolts to 38 ft. lbs
3) shock absorber lower: tighten nut to 53 ft.lbs. with car on ground at ride height.

See less See more

Save

SoCalRT

· #3 · Apr 19, 2005 (Edited)

Alternative to the Pickle Fork

You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.

See less See more

Save

Vaderwagon

· #4 · Apr 29, 2005

What happened to the pics of the "lowering spring" install?? The description is good but the pics are helpful.

Save

2003z

· #5 · May 1, 2005

sorry, i switched ISPs, then my computer crashed and I lost all my pics.

Save

ChargerOsix

· #6 · May 4, 2005

t5rwagon said:
What happened to the pics of the "lowering spring" install?? The description is good but the pics are helpful.

On each box, right click and goto Properties. Cut and past the URL and replace dodgemagnumclub with lxforums. The pics are in order so just replace the number for the next frame.

Save

DMAG

Discussion Starter · #7 · May 4, 2005

Sorry...fixed the pics in the posts.

Save

Black on Black

· #8 · May 11, 2005

I used the same tool and it worked out great. Those rubber seals/gaskets are filled with grease, so its always nice when you can do without damaging them.

SoCalRT said:
You may want to use a tie rod end puller instead of the pickle fork. I picked up this one for around $10 at the local parts store. A few turns with a wrench and it popped loose, with no damage to the rubber seals.

Save

StatueMan

· #9 · Jun 17, 2005

RE: Lowering springs and bump stop

DMAG

Does the "bump stop" require trimming or is it something you did for ride, etc? What if it isn't done? What did you trim it with?

DMAG said:
Sorry...fixed the pics in the posts.

Save

Jerry M.

· #10 · Jun 26, 2005

alignment

Is an alignment needed after installing the lowering springs?

Save

snickle

· #11 · Jun 26, 2005

An alignment is recommended, however that can be challenging as it won't quite come to factory spec. Camber is off.

Save

Reactions: 1

buellcyclone

· #12 · Jul 7, 2005

I just installed a pro kit last week. In an RT you have to loosen your exhaust to remove the inner A arm bolts so remember that. That took a little time. Use a impact driver to remove the bolts from the shock shafts, forget about the special tool Chyrsler says you need for the struts. Ensure that the spring compressor is compressing the springs slightly before you remove the spring holder on the strut to make sure the spring doesnt fly when you remove the holder. You do have to remove and cut the rear suspension stops or you will continuously bottom out.
When you installed your kit does your front suspension bottom out occasionally? Mine does. Just wondering. Also, do you find the ride a lot harsher? I installed a Pro kit on my 2000 Mustang GT and the ride didnt feel too much harsher but on the Magnum, I really feel the length of the car now compared to stock springs and the ride is way more rough.Let me know.

Thanks

Save

nkjs77

· #13 · Jul 22, 2005

Very helpful. Thanks alot~!!!

Save

Earache

· #14 · Jul 25, 2006

Although mechanically challenged, I am swapping out my RT suspension bits for SRT8.

Removing the spring\shock assembly is straightforward, but I am stuck on how to remove the top hat from the assembly. The retaining nut is recessed into the hat and compressing the spring does not make it accessable.

How do I get to the 18mm retaining nut in order to remove the hat?

earache
______________
2005 Midnight Blue RT

Save

Hemi31

· #15 · Jul 26, 2006

Earache said:
Although mechanically challenged, I am swapping out my RT suspension bits for SRT8.

Removing the spring\shock assembly is straightforward, but I am stuck on how to remove the top hat from the assembly. The retaining nut is recessed into the hat and compressing the spring does not make it accessable.

How do I get to the 18mm retaining nut in order to remove the hat?

earache
______________
2005 Midnight Blue RT

If you dont have the tools do yourself a favor and take the strut assemblies to a shop.They will swap them out quickly and for just a few bucks.Otherwise;put your spring compressor on and tighten down on the spring to take the tension off the hat(NEVER TAKE A STRUT APART WITHOUT A SPRING COMPRESSOR!IT IS THE FASTEST WAY TO LOSE BODY PARTS!)Then you will need a thinwall 18mm impact socket and impact gun.Spin the 18mm nut off take the hat off,replace the spring and put the hat back on.Put the nut bak on and spin it down with the impact gun.Then you can let the spring compressor off the old spring SLOWLY.I found that you do not need the compressor for the new spring as it's short enough to put the hat on without.

Save

Reactions: 1

Silver Bullit

· #16 · Aug 14, 2006

AWD sway bars???

I am trying to install a set of Hotchess bars on my mag. The question is are the bars froma rwd mag the same as awd mags.:thumbs_u:

Save

Token

· #17 · Aug 14, 2006

Silver Bullit said:
I am trying to install a set of Hotchess bars on my mag. The question is are the bars froma rwd mag the same as awd mags.:thumbs_u:

In a word..... NO

Save

lowriderman3

· #18 · Aug 19, 2006

snickle said:
An alignment is recommended, however that can be challenging as it won't quite come to factory spec. Camber is off.

Yea I just had mine lowered yesterday, and both front and rear is off. I did search and did not see any post about a real fix for it. A company does exist called Specialty Products who makes the kit for the front. My mechanic actually showed me the info on them. They sell front camber arms that will then allow for the adjustments. They are expensive as all heck though($295 each side from what it looks like). I see other companys make something for the rear, as does this one. Anyone try these yet?

Click link and then put in the info on your car. Pic is below of what one looks like.
http://www.specprod.com/PROD_DIR/PROD_PASSCAR.HTML

See less See more

Save

t walgamuth

· #19 · Aug 20, 2006

awd differences?

i was looking at my 05 awd 3.5 car and wondering how they raised the ride height from the factory. specifically i was wondering if they may have just installed thicker spring pads in the rear. it looks as if i could lower the rear an inch and the car would just look level.

tom w

Save

Fatrock

· #20 · Sep 16, 2006

If I missed a discussion on this I apologise 'cause I didn't see anything on it, but doesn anyone in this here forum have any experience with Eibach springs on the Magnum? I've used them exclusively in the past on other makes that will go unmentioned here, and unless I hear specific reasons not to go with them I will. Any help here folks? Thanks a million! Also, the Gallery doesn't like my pics, sp hit dub dub dub dot photobucket dot com, and search for "fatrock" and there you'll see a couple pics of my beast.

Save

1 - 20 of 115 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month