[///Mizzou3]

Hello, I'm trying to help my father get his 2006 Magnum SRT8 back on the road. He's the original owner and the car has 73K miles. He last drove the car in late 2019 before storing it indoors (ran perfectly when stored). I tired starting the car for him earlier this year and was unsuccessful. I figured after that much time the gas went bad. In September, I helped him drain both sides of the fuel tank. The inside of the tank looked very clean. We added 5 gallons of fresh gas, but the car didn't start. I pulled the fuel rail connection and realized zero fuel was making it to the engine while cranking. He lives several hours away and I have limited tools available in the location where its stored; so was unable to diagnose anything electrical. The car is a dry environment (Phoenix) and there are zero rodent or pest issues in its indoor location.

I suspect the fuel pump is bad. I'm going with the assumption that the driver's side (left) fuel pump is the one that feeds the engine and the right fuel pump balances the tank. If I'm mistaken and the passenger side pump can cause a no start situation, please let me know. I've researched aftermarket fuel pumps available from retailers like Rock Auto and Autozone and I cannot find any brands I recognize. I'm having a little difficulty finding the OE Mopar fuel pump online. Is there an aftermarket fuel pump brand with a good reputation or a recommended retailer that sells the Mopar fuel pump?

I'm visiting him again soon and really want to get the car running for him. I'm not afraid of the parts cannon approach given the lack a tool to confirm a proper diagnosis (could be a fuel pump relay?). Since a fuel pump can leave you stranded, I want to make sure I install a good quality part and look forward to your recommendations. Thanks!

 

[///Mizzou3]

Since these SRT8s are so rare and so cool, I thought I post a pic of the car.

 

[Hemissary]

The contractors that produce fuel pumps for the OEM, in most cases, started out supplying the OEM. This is an area where the idea name brand really has no merit.

If Rock Auto is your go-to, purchase what they are offering. It is extremely(!) unlikely that a / any contractor / supplier part in this case is going to let your dad down.

Note: you should first listen carefully for the pump when the key is first turned to the run position (do not try and start). The supply pump will run until nominal pressure (~80psi static) is reached, then stop. If you hear the pump, then you should first determine if there is actually fuel (under pressure) at the Shrader valve (on the fuel rail).

Note also the fuel sitting in the line leading to the distribution rail will be of the same vintage as what you drained out of the tank...

 

[Spud66]

^ taking up that line of thought, I've had a car that wouldn't start because 7 of the 8 injectors were stuck - I tested by pulling them and putting 9 volts to them, listening/feeling for the click. Had them cleaned by a service and upon reinstallation, the car started immediately.

 

[Hemissary]

Entirely possible in the OP's case and a more likely issue (stuck pintles).