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This is a very simple procedure. Common tools are used (breaker bar maybe the exception).
Saved an easy $100+ doing it myself.
Tools are
sockets/wrench with breaker bar
18mm for the caliper bracketbolts
13mm for the caliper guide pin bolts.
I cant remember the sensor brackert but it was SAE
Torque wrench
8" C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in to make room for the new pads
I used a needle nose pliers for the rotor retaining clips
When I got the pads they gave me caliper pin grease and anti-squeak compound
Time: Took me an hour to do, I had the luxury of a lift and air compressor tools
Cost:
Rotors $150
Pads $40
Stall time: $8
Safety notes:
Make sure the car is supported!!!!!
DO NOT push the brake pedal when the caliper is off the rotor. You may push the caliper piston
past the interal O-ring seal. Then you will have to rebuilt the caliper.
Pump the breakes to seat the pads after re-assembly
When driving the first time the brakes will not have full braking capibility. The anti-rust coating will
wear off after a short distance.
Also to note: if you have added brake fluid, you will need to remove some. When you reset the caliper piston,
you will be pushing fluid back into the resivour.
As we start with the tire off.
![]()
Take the bottom caliper guide pin bolts off and loosen the top one abit. swing the rotor up to expose the pads.
I had to use a 2X4 and a hammer to swing the caliper up.
![]()
Support the caliper out of the way. I used a wire that I found. This takes the pressure off of the brake lines.
![]()
To make it easier to get to the top caliper mounting bolt, remove the sensor bracket.
First pop off the sensor wire from the holder, then take off the bolt. I threaded it back in so that I wouldnt loose it.
![]()
There she be with the caliper bracket and rotor off. To get the rotor off the first time, you have to take off the
2 assembly clips as seen in the first pic. You can discard them, they are used during maufactoring. Now is the point
where you either turn the rotors or replace the rotors all together like I had to do.
![]()
Here is the caliper bracket back on and showing the lube on the caliper guide pins. A common step that gets forgotten.
Use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in a bit.
Put in the new pads apply the anti-squeak compound on the caliper area that touches the pads and reverse to assemble.
Dont forget about the sensor bracket.
The caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 70ft# and the caliper guide pin bolts are 44ft#
![]()
Here are a few FYI shots
The stud mounting method on the hub
![]()
Here shows the spring rubber orientation. This is taken on the passenger side.
![]()
Saved an easy $100+ doing it myself.
Tools are
sockets/wrench with breaker bar
18mm for the caliper bracketbolts
13mm for the caliper guide pin bolts.
I cant remember the sensor brackert but it was SAE
Torque wrench
8" C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in to make room for the new pads
I used a needle nose pliers for the rotor retaining clips
When I got the pads they gave me caliper pin grease and anti-squeak compound
Time: Took me an hour to do, I had the luxury of a lift and air compressor tools
Cost:
Rotors $150
Pads $40
Stall time: $8
Safety notes:
Make sure the car is supported!!!!!
DO NOT push the brake pedal when the caliper is off the rotor. You may push the caliper piston
past the interal O-ring seal. Then you will have to rebuilt the caliper.
Pump the breakes to seat the pads after re-assembly
When driving the first time the brakes will not have full braking capibility. The anti-rust coating will
wear off after a short distance.
Also to note: if you have added brake fluid, you will need to remove some. When you reset the caliper piston,
you will be pushing fluid back into the resivour.
As we start with the tire off.
Take the bottom caliper guide pin bolts off and loosen the top one abit. swing the rotor up to expose the pads.
I had to use a 2X4 and a hammer to swing the caliper up.
Support the caliper out of the way. I used a wire that I found. This takes the pressure off of the brake lines.
To make it easier to get to the top caliper mounting bolt, remove the sensor bracket.
First pop off the sensor wire from the holder, then take off the bolt. I threaded it back in so that I wouldnt loose it.
There she be with the caliper bracket and rotor off. To get the rotor off the first time, you have to take off the
2 assembly clips as seen in the first pic. You can discard them, they are used during maufactoring. Now is the point
where you either turn the rotors or replace the rotors all together like I had to do.
Here is the caliper bracket back on and showing the lube on the caliper guide pins. A common step that gets forgotten.
Use the C-clamp to push the caliper piston back in a bit.
Put in the new pads apply the anti-squeak compound on the caliper area that touches the pads and reverse to assemble.
Dont forget about the sensor bracket.
The caliper bracket bolts are torqued to 70ft# and the caliper guide pin bolts are 44ft#
Here are a few FYI shots
The stud mounting method on the hub
Here shows the spring rubber orientation. This is taken on the passenger side.
