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Bought an 07 Charger SXT, 3.5. 176K. Ran terrible, tons of misfires. Ended up having 3 bad coil packs. Common issue around this mileage so suspect those first.
Next intriguing issue. ABS, ESP & BAS lights on. Plus U1418 and several other codes for speed sensors. Had codes for Right Rear wheel speed and Right Front wheel speed. When you get these codes, you also get some CANBUS codes and others that don't seem to relate. Confusing and frustrating.
Picked up both right wheel speed sensors. Should have looked before buying but it really didn't matter. The Right Front wheel speed sensor was cut 3" from the plug with bare wires hanging free and mangled together. New wheel speed sensor fixed that one.
But, the rear wheel speed sensor did nothing. Still had a ton of codes that seemed unrelated. Erase them and as soon as the car moved, they came right back. Took it to a shop and they said "you have a wiring mess, it's by the hour from here on out at $100/hr". I'm like you know what, I can buy a lot of parts for $1000. So I brought it home.
A little back story, the right rear wheel bearing was really bad when I got the car. A sure way to damage sensors as the air gap is only .016", about the thickness of an index card. Normally, the tone wheels are heavy metal rings pressed onto the axles. Pretty durable and with eat a speed sensor like candy. But, on the LX cars, they changed them to thin light weight steel sleeves with impregnated magnets in rubber/plastic. Not very durable for several reasons. One, if they touch anything they're gone. Such as a wheel bearing going out. Two, salt and corrosion will delaminate them.
They are hidden inside the rear spindle and unless you know they are there, you won't even see them. Even if you know they are there, you cant really see the unless you disassemble the rear hub. There is a check you can do. With a voltmeter connected to the sensor, rotate the wheel at 1 revolution per second. You should be getting a voltage of around .45 volts. If not, you have a bad tone ring.
The easy quick option is to replace the whole axle. This is expensive and if you live in the rust belt, getting the control arm bolts out may be another issue. Especially the lower one.
New tone rings are available for $40 for all four. If you live in a rust prone area, buy all 4, you'll probably need them sooner than later. You can buy one at a time for around $15. They aren't available at most parts stores or even the dealer. It's online only pretty much.
The tone rings just press on like an oil seal. Getting the old one off is easy. A flat blade screw driver and a hammer will knock off. It's easier to take the top control arm bolts off and tilt the spindle down.
Putting the new tone ring back on is another story. Since you are working with a plastic/rubber coated steel sleeve, they are somewhat delicate. You can't just take a hammer to them. Pulling the axle is an option allowing easy access to tap the tone ring back on with a soft faced hammer. This can be a challenge as the joint likes to move around and its spring loaded so everytime you hit it, it absorbs the impact.
I took the easy way out sort of. I made a press sleeve where I could use the axle nut to press the tone ring on square and without damage. I got it within 1/16" of being fully seated. I then used a small piece of wood to fully seat it.
I used a PVC shower drain that was the perfect diameter to fit inside the rear spindle centering the axle and the sleeve. I had to cut the center out to match the axle diameter. Easily done with a dremel tool with a cutoff wheel and a sanding drum to size it. I then used a pipe plug that perfectly slipped over the drain. Drilled the center out to match the axle diameter.
Once done, I still had the lights on and the codes. I thought I'd have to get them reset as I don't have an ABS scanner. I drove the car 3 blocks and looked down and the lights went off. The tone rings effect transmission shifting, ABS, ESP, BAS, Cruise control and Auto-stick.
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