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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the Eforce on my 6.1. After a while I noticed the belt slipping toward the radiator on the water pump pulley so I thought the water pump might be going bad. Swapped it out and discovered that the bolt that holds the center of the supercharger bracket and an idler pulley was a little loose which caused that idler pulley to dig into the water pump. I thought that I had discovered my problem, put everything back, making sure everything was tight and after driving it around the belt is still slipping on the water pump pulley but it's walking the opposite way, toward the engine.

Anyone have this issue?

A friend of mine talked to HHP and they sold him this flanged pulley that they said would fix the problem but the pulley is way too big.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Call Edelbrock support. Tony Alvina.

I can try this again. Already reached out once because I had a similar issue with the supercharger belt. Tried contacting Edelbrock support but no real help, can't remember who I talked to though.

Ended up putting a spacer in the tensioner pulley and that took care of the problem.
 

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Ok so correct me if I’m wrong. You have two belts. one has nothing to do with the other.
Other then the lower pulley.
I used the pulley that came in the kit which was a double pulley
So each piece runs independently of each other
Which takes the other out of the equation. So if you have a problem with the serpentine belt what makes you think it’s the blower that is making it not run true?
They run independently of each other. I’m probably wrong like usual but please let us know what you do to fix it.
I’d look closer at the drive side and the lower pulley for this answer.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok so correct me if I’m wrong. You have two belts. one has nothing to do with the other.
Other then the lower pulley.
I used the pulley that came in the kit which was a double pulley
So each piece runs independently of each other
Which takes the other out of the equation. So if you have a problem with the serpentine belt what makes you think it’s the blower that is making it not run true?
They run independently of each other. I’m probably wrong like usual but please let us know what you do to fix it.
I’d look closer at the drive side and the lower pulley for this answer.


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Yes, I have two belts that are mostly independent except they both run off the crank. The crank was pinned with a second pulley added to the crank to run the supercharger.

I didn't have any issues with the serpentine belt until a few months after I installed the supercharger. When it gets installed you reuse one of the oem idler pulleys that sits on the backside of the supercharger pulley bracket (#6 below).


Product Font Auto part Circle Drawing


While searching for that image I came across a thread where a guy is having a similar issue, it was on a jeep but all the same. In that thread someone posted the following (which appears to be from a repair type manual?):

“GROOVE JUMPING" (BELT DOES NOT MAINTAIN CORRECT POSITION ON PULLEY)

1. Belt tension either too high or too low (Replace automatic belt tensioner)
2. Belt routed incorrectly (Verify belt routing)
3. Incorrect belt (Replace belt)
4. Pulley(s) not within design tolerance (Replace pulley(s))
5. Foreign object(s) in grooves. (Remove foreign objects from grooves)
6. Pulley misalignment. (Check and replace)
7. Belt cord line is broken. (Replace belt)

Also in that thread the guy who posted similar issue eventually took it to the dealer that said it was his tensioner so they replaced that and the idler pulley for good measure. Just ordered replacements and going to give that a try.
 

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Yes I understand and your correct. Did you use the lower pulley that came with the kit?That’s the double pulley from edelbrock. That gets pinned And torqued. You need the Miller tool to press that on properly. I think your in the right direction replacing the tensioner and the only one that will fit with this kit is the oem one. If that doesn’t fix it I’d be looking at the crank pulley. I know when I installed mine, to get the right torque I had to stick a bar through it to hold the engine from spinning. Keep us posted


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I know when I installed mine, to get the right torque I had to stick a bar through it to hold the engine from spinning.
This happened to me on another vehicle application. I damaged the damper material somehow and ended up losing an AC compressor clutch bearing because it was making the belt wiggle so hard. Learned my lesson. New HB & Bearing fixed it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I understand and your correct. Did you use the lower pulley that came with the kit?That’s the double pulley from edelbrock. That gets pinned And torqued. You need the Miller tool to press that on properly. I think your in the right direction replacing the tensioner and the only one that will fit with this kit is the oem one. If that doesn’t fix it I’d be looking at the crank pulley. I know when I installed mine, to get the right torque I had to stick a bar through it to hold the engine from spinning. Keep us posted


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Yeah I used the lower pulley from the kit, pinned and torqued. But that extra pulley is for the SC belt so if its not on correctly then I could see that being an issue with the SC belt not the serpentine right? Since the serpentine runs off the original crank pulley?

I'll swap in the new parts when they arrive and report back.

Thanks for all the input and feedback!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Update:

Swapping the tensioner and idler pulley appears to have done the trick 🤞 although I haven't driven it extremely hard it feels like I have given it the same amount of time as when it slipped before. I'll continue to check as I drive it under varying conditions.

Thanks again to all for the feedback, much appreciated.
 
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