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Dorman Studs and New Rotors and Pads

1929 Views 2 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  RobAGD
Ok well today I found myself finally getting to a project I have been trying to take care of

for about a month now. A bit over a month ago I was at MIR and in the process of taking off the lugnuts I had 3 that galled up and took the threads off the studs. A bit of time and a 14mm 1.5mm Die and I got them good enough to race and get home.

As it turns out Doug (PaCharger) had recently had an issue or 2 along the same lines, while
we were talking about replacing the studs we started to try an source them. The factory studs are stupid expensive. Now I will say this for them, They have lasted over 2.5 very very full racing seasons, along with the constant changing of the DR's and swapping around street wheels they lasted a good length of time. The jobber pricing for these was something on the order of $13.00 a pop and retail is closer to $19.00 and that is just boarder line insane in my book.

So the search went on and someone ( I think MagFX ? ) found these dorman and Doug found a web site with them in stock. I ordered up 22 ofthem expecting to do all 20 leaving 2 for fubars or replacments. These are NOT exact matches but they are very very close.

Something else I needed to get done was replace my rotors and pads ( the rears were down to the squeakers already ) and well the Rotors were well worn to say the least. So ordered up 4 SRT Replacement rotors ( $279 for all 4 ) and started to price new Factory Pads, again I almost puked at the cost of these pads, On the order of $600 front and rears. so recalling the Dan (FlyByU) had posted up what looked to be the Bendix OEM pads I took a look at them.

Well for $109 for fronts and rears I was all over that, so they got ordered.

So now I have a pile of parts and I need to find time to tear into the project, and well here we are.

Doug has a good write up on doing the Stud Replacment using the factory stud Wheel Studs - HowTo Swap

A few things in reguards to the Dormans, they are thicker in the head area, and well that is critical in doing this without having to remove a lot of extra stuff.

So I started ( dont forget I have SRT Brakes on my car, using the RT dust shields cut to fit ) and the first stud just popped right out, I was expecting a lot more work for that. and using the 6 o'clock point it came right out. Now start working in the dorman, and it just is not playing nice. BUT after tinkering around I get them in from the 6 o'clock point ( I started on the Passenger side rear ). Now I pull them through using hand tools.



Here you can see and Old vs new installed
Now things are looking good, then I notice that the fat part of the stud is not exiting the hub. I check the old stud, vs the old rotor and it dosent seem to be an issue ( Thinking the rotor maybe have been riding on the studs as well as the hub but that seems to not be the case.

So now I am onto the Pads and I see a few differnt things, first being that metal backing plates and no squeakers vs the brembos soft backed plated w/ Stainless Steel shim.I installed the shim with the new pads anyways. So here are a few shots of the pads.




Ok a few things here. On the SRT's in the rears you will need an 18mm Socket, 18mm GearWrench ( makes life a bit easier) also a 4" 3/8 or 1/2 extention with appropate ratchet. And 11mm Endwrench for the caliper bleeders.

Torque :

Rear Caliper mounting bolts is 96ft lbs
Front Calipers mounting bolts is 140 ft lbs

I had to turn the wheel lock right and use an impact to break it loose, I got the Passenger side by hand, but it was not easy.

Oh Yea I also found this !


Ripped all the way around but not through. Intreating eh ?

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Great write up as usual Rob. Glad to see those $1.13 studs worked! What type of paint did you use on the hubs? Looks great - nice to have some bling with safety mods :)
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