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· Premium Member
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470 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I keep warping the front rotors of my '07 Magnum SXT RWD. I've gone from stock to heavy duty and they still warp. After a period of time (several months on stock to a year or so on heavy duty) I start getting squeaking and steering vibration when braking @ 60+ MPH.

Replacing the brakes & rotors solves the problem.

Is there a better set (Cross drilled/ slotted) that would avoid this issue?

You can message me or post replies.

Thanks !
 

· Army Bomb Tech
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1,058 Posts
not sure how hard you are on the brakes, and how often... If you do some research on brake bedding http://www.stoptech.com/technical-s...-theory-definitions-and-procedures/bed-in-faq this may give you some good to know information. As for the warping, I also would recommend the R1 rotors as its what I use and have had great luck with them. I know sometimes warping can be caused simply from a period of heavy braking (builds up lots of heat) then coming and holding the brakes at a complete stop (pads on rotors transferring the heat). I dont think this would be under normal around town driving, but more from a road coarse or multiple back to back passes down the strip. Things to consider anyways, hope its helpful.
 

· Registered
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50 Posts
Are you installing the rotors properly by gauging rotor run out? Also it could also just be some buildup on the pads that can cause your vibration. Hope you can find a solution to your issue.


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· Draxx them sklounst...
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3,595 Posts
I think you have a bigger problem that you are only masking by changing the brakes. If you still get vibration shortly after swapping new brakes, then they are not the problem. Check your suspension bushings, primarily the tension struts. I bet you that one, if not both are cracked.
 

· Premium Member
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There is good info here. You should make sure there are no other "issues" that may be causing the vibrations.

Using a Good quality set of pads and rotors, with proper bed-in procedure will also go a long way to ensuring you don't get brake fade or warping issues.

Also good info, on not getting the brakes hot, then letting the car sit with the brakes applied.

If you want a set of pads and rotors let us know, we carry many brands and can suggest a set for your driving style and needs.
 

· MR 3 FIFTEEN
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2,125 Posts
Could be a suspension issue. Tension struts, I'm thinkin. If the bushings are worn, you'll get the same symptoms you're describing. Replacing the rotors corrected my problem too, but the shaking started again after a while. Ended up being the tension struts. Replaced those and never experienced it again.
 

· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for the info.

It's possible that there could be something else worn (She has 120K on her). How can I tell the Tension Struts are bad, short of getting her up in the air?
 

· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
OK. I took the magnum in for service. The tension arms are "noisy" but not bad. Found that the Rotor and rim on driver's side were bent, tie rod bad and some bushings (can't remember is control or sway bar) were bad.
 

· T.G.I.F.
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24,375 Posts
Yep sounds like you don't have a brake problem at all.

Over the years this is sort of a common theme with the brakes on an LX. The stockers are actually well suited to street use. Even heavy street use. In addition to the suspension issues, someone has already mentioned a potential problem and it bears repeating. We have BIG and *heavy* cars that have big and powerful motors. This lends itself to fun, which leads to brake use thats heavier than you might think. In particular... hauling the car down from speed and holding your foot on the brake pedal at the light. This causes a hot spot on the rotor and can lead to pad transfer onto the rotor, which creates a judder and fools the driver into thinking they have a recurring warpage problem.

Impermanent solution is to bed the brakes - basically scrub them clean. Long term solution is to learn how to brake a heavy car that you beat the $hit out of, whether you realize it or not: Stop 2 carlengths back from the guy ahead of you at the light and creep slowly forward, keeping the pad rotating around the rotor instead of sitting at one spot. That takes some practice, patience and the willingness to look a little weird to other people at the light. Easier solution is to stop, shift into neutral and take your foot clean off the brake. Makes for exciting times if you aren't on flat ground. Or don't change your use pattern and just re-bed when the brakes are juddery.

Regardless, don't expect drilled rotors to help. Drilling is for bling only. If you like the bling feel free to lighten your wallet, but don't do it to increase performance cuz in this day and age thats not what its for. Rotors should run you less than $50 each and you can get perfectly good ones at RockAuto. I buy SRT rotors there for about that price and they are perfectly in spec for both weight and dimension.
 

· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions. The last set I had were "supposedly" police spec. they were good, but squeaked big time.
 
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