LX Forums Forum banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
I’m wondering if anyone has gone through this before. I installed a BC Racing coilover kit on my 2017 Chrysler 300 AWD.
I was able to drop it considerably but I’m wondering if anybody knows if there is a formula or something I can use to tell me how many inches of drop I will achieve depending on the distance of the adjustment. On the front I reduced the distance between the two smaller lock nuts from the way it came out of the box which was 76mm to 66mm. On the rears I adjusted the spring locknut from factory measurement of 35 to 26mm.
I was trying to be conservative but that obviously didn’t work I think the adjustment multiplies the drop.
I’m wondering if I go back to the way they were when they were shipped to me if this will still be too low. Mine is an all-wheel-drive so it sits a little higher, I had more room to play in the wheel well.
Here are some pics, there’s some rubbing if I take an extreme right hand turn. Although it looks great I need it to be a little more drivable, I don’t want to have to worry about every single bump.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Not the Momma
Joined
·
3,209 Posts
following... I want to know too...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok so I had some time after work and I was able to raise the rear.
I adjusted the spring spacer up 20mm (.78”) and it raised the car 40mm (1.57”)
So no more bottoming out. According to my math that’s .50 to 1 ratio. I will let it settle and re-measure and report back for anyone interested. Unfortunately you have to remove the rear springs so you can adjust the top threaded spacer (not enough space to release spring tension). But luckily I didn’t have to remove the lower control arm bolt. That thing is the devil. Have to drop rear portion of the exhaust to get it out. Instead I had to remove the lower shock bolt, the sway bar end link and the three “stabilizer” bolts. Don’t know what to call them. it took about 35-40 min each side. I wouldn’t mind if it settled a little bit more on the rear. Now I have to raise the front a little more. Has that “raked” look now. But definitely lower in rear than before.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Really Old Guy
Joined
·
1,905 Posts
Be aware that your camber/caster will most likely be out of spec and you will NOT be able to adjust it. Also, your rear camber/toe will be out of spec also and you only have a small amount of toe adjustment. The only solution is adjustable upper A-arms for the front at a cost of about $400+. The rear adjustable camber and toe links will run you another $500. I just did this on my 17 Scat. Here is the link Adjustable Suspension
 

·
Not the Momma
Joined
·
3,209 Posts
How about some adjustment data for the front?
 

·
Not the Momma
Joined
·
3,209 Posts

·
Really Old Guy
Joined
·
1,905 Posts
I meant how much to adjust BC lift to equal how much actual lift?
Well, when I had them on my 2010 Challenger I set the pre-load as per BC Racings instructions, Installed them, made a short drive to see where I was at, and then adjusted the ride height to what I wanted. It took a couple of adjustments. But, I dropped my Challenger about 2". I really never measured the amount, other than the ride height, as I just counted the turns I made with the spanner.

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Update on the front.
I raised the strut back up 25mm (.98”) and the car sits 40mm (1.57”) higher in the front now. It’s pretty close to stock on the front now. But at least I know how much I can drop on the struts and achieve the desired ride height.
The driver side front was much lower than the passenger side. I had to raise the driver side lock nut an additional 7mm to be even with the passenger side. Even though I was using a micrometer to measure between the lock nuts. They were even but the car sat slightly lower (1/2”) on the driver side front. I unfortunately found a small tear in the outer CV boot on that side because it was so low. It’s a small tear but some grease was “whipped” around the inside on the wheel while I drove for a short time. Does anyone know of a good aftermarket split boot that I can just put in place without having to remove the shaft ?
I only drove it a couple of times around the neighborhood so I’m hoping there’s no damage to the CV joint. I think since I’m at stock ride height on the front now I should be safe just to replace that boot.













Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top