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· big bump stick
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2,013 Posts
I had a clunk in my RR, and it was getting worse. I put the car on jack stands and tightened everything, 3/4 times and it did not help. I read here on LX, somewhere recently, can't find it now, but the advice was to tightned the lower shock bolt with the tire on and the wheel supporting the car. Meech posted the TQ specs, which I did not use, due to confinement issues.....
SO, I jacked up the car, set it back down on a car ramp, chocked the front wheels, and then loosened and tightened the lower shock bolt. NOT ONE rattle since then, about 250 miles, mixed driving , including 5 miles of rough pavement, construction where they have removed the top layer of asphalt and then aggravated whats under it. its like a new car again.

Hope this helps
 

· WinE-O-LX
2007 Dodge Daytona
Joined
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1,552 Posts
like get bc for my 300 if i dont go bags where can i get these and need shipped to canada
Circuit Motorsports is where I got mine from no problem with shipping. Definitely worth the money.
 

· Registered
Joined
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414 Posts
I just what to thank everyone here for the information. I had the same issues on my Magnum SRT8 had the lower bolts tighten an she is riding much better now an the shop also told me that the rear wheel bearings are no good so im having them replaced soon... An now I can get back to the more power project!
 

· Premium Member
Joined
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2,654 Posts
The car was not designed to be supported by the shock. A SAE 1/2" fits very snugly. Get one that is shouldered through the shock. Look in your shock through hole and you will likely see thread marks. I have Afco rear coilovers and can not get any help.


In my opinion the shouldered bolt is what should be included in the kits.
 
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