BC Coilovers Clunking
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My rear clunk was the same as most of the peoples and has to deal with the lower shock bolt ... it really should be replaced on install and a spacer put in to minimize movement. But for the cheap ass in me and seems like some others
I over torqued the lower bolt (high on stands with breaker bar) with a few little love taps and now there is no noise! Either way I would try to either over torque it or take bolt out and put a washer on each side between the rubber insert and the factory mounting point and then retorque and you should be good
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3,397 Posts
For the fronts you want to make sure those collars are tight.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
For the rear make sure you have the spring seat tight, then make sure the shock is adjusted to the right length to keep tension on the arm when at full droop (suspension unloaded), and make sure that bottom bolt is really tight holding the shock o the arm.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
The proper way to set preload on a coilover-
-Loosen both lock rings under the spring (spring seat ring(top) and spring lock ring(bottom)) so that the spring is loose and can move up and down slightly.
-Tighten up the spring seat ring so that the spring is snug, but do not tighten it down past simply holding the spring snug, this will be "0" preload.
-Now bring the bottom lock ring up so that it is just touching the spring seat ring, but do not tighten to lock, you will be moving the spring seat ring next.
-Now tighten up the spring seat ring so that you are now preloading (compressing) the spring.
-Measure the distance between the bottom ring and the top ring as you are tightening, once there is a 3mm gap between the two rings, you have 3mm of preload on the spring.
-Tighten up the lock ring to lock your preload in place
-Repeat for all 4 corners.
For the rear make sure you have the spring seat tight, then make sure the shock is adjusted to the right length to keep tension on the arm when at full droop (suspension unloaded), and make sure that bottom bolt is really tight holding the shock o the arm.
You also want to check and make sure the top 17mm center nut is tight, it's best to check it with an impact gun if you have access to one, a wuick hit is all it should need. A few other areas to check are the lower mounting bolts, the 4 allen bolts that adjust camber, and the 4 lock bolts underneath the pillowball bearing, make sure all of these are tight.
Sometimes noise can come from somehwere else, endlinks, swaybars, and chassis contact can all be problems. Make sure now that the car is lowered and stiffer that you don't have exhaust contact anywhere. These are all common noise issues.
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If you read that while looking at the front coilover it will make sense
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My way to get rid of the clunking in the rear: trade the car in on the Mustang.
Seriously, I've had those lower bolts tightened to the point that the shop told me any more and they might snap. The noise was still there. Had new rear stabilizer links installed just in case they were causing the noise - noise still there. Spent more money on this issue than I should've had to, but I did, to no avail.
From what I've seen and remember them telling me, the pocket that the bottom of the shock sits in is wider than the shock, and tightening the bolt basically tries to squeeze the sides of that pocket until they touch the sides of the shock mount.
This (to me) just means that the shock is not wide enough for the application ....
Seriously, I've had those lower bolts tightened to the point that the shop told me any more and they might snap. The noise was still there. Had new rear stabilizer links installed just in case they were causing the noise - noise still there. Spent more money on this issue than I should've had to, but I did, to no avail.
From what I've seen and remember them telling me, the pocket that the bottom of the shock sits in is wider than the shock, and tightening the bolt basically tries to squeeze the sides of that pocket until they touch the sides of the shock mount.
This (to me) just means that the shock is not wide enough for the application ....
What exactly did you tighten
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1,160 Posts
The lower shock bolt
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There is a bushing at the bottom, that is what will contact the lower mount and make it tight once the bolt is tightened down. I guess it's possible for it to get deformed over time, etc. If there is a gap there a set of washers like a few guys have used would work.
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I placed washers between the bottom part of strut and control arm on both sides and tightened it down. I did it to both driver and pass sides and never had a problem since.
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I took bolt to home depot and test fitted them. I did it a long time ago on a 08, I've since picked up a 12. I'll see if I still have the bag for washers.
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3,397 Posts
You should use the wrench, make sure it's tight. If its loose the body can move around in the lower mount.
When you install a coilover suspension there are A LOT of things that be be loose, so it really all needs to be checked when you get a noise.
Glad you got it taken care of!
When you install a coilover suspension there are A LOT of things that be be loose, so it really all needs to be checked when you get a noise.
Glad you got it taken care of!
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5,928 Posts
Guys I noticed this thread is still going if your having a clunk in the rear replace the lower shock mount bolt. You can get a new one from your dealer.
I'm not so sure that these bolts can be used more than once without stretching. For the cost just replace it and set the torque correctly and you should have no more rear clunk issues.
I'm not so sure that these bolts can be used more than once without stretching. For the cost just replace it and set the torque correctly and you should have no more rear clunk issues.
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