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I'm just a little confused with the type of fluid I should use in my NAG1 jeep auto-box. After doing some research many, if not, mostof the benz owners uses the ridiculously expensive fluid from MB (the sealed for life stuff) or the shell atf 134 which seems to have been made for the nag1 and 2. Right now I'm with the mopar atf+4, but I hesitate for my next tranny service. Probably I will go with the shell stuff to see if it fix the shudder. If all this is not helping the shudder I'll poor in some friction modifier from mopar. The jeep is not on Nitro lol, but it is not stock either. ECU is tuned for high torque output... I just love it :p

So yeah I can replicate the shudder when coming on the highway under maybe 50-75% of throttle (load medium-high). At WOT I have no symptoms. RPM is about 2000-2400ish when it happens, its not very precise I'm sorry. It happens when she is warm. When cold, its very very light... barely noticeable.
 

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Why don't you pour in a bottle of the Mopar limited slip additive first, see if it works. It's cheap. Make sure the fluid level is measured correctly. If you "search" you should be able to find a chart, have to check the temperature then confirm correct level. I drop my pan, clean magnet, change filter and refill with Mopar ATF+4 every 50,000 miles, so far, shifts fine.
 

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I had this shudder. Trans shop said I needed new tq converter and trans rebuild and transfer case overhaul. Jeep has 115k on it so figured ok. After the repair it doesn't shudder in the 40moh light throttle range anymore. But on a hard launch I swear it does. Jeep jumps out hard then either is spinning the tires and I am feeling a bit of a hop or its frigging the torque converter shutter. It shudders then I hear the tires spinning . I ordered the modifier stuff to try. I already had to go back once to trans shop once cause the incorrectly filled the trans. If I have to go back again I'm gonna explode.
 

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You're not supposed to use ANY additives in any transmission
with ATF+3, +4 fluid, because it changes the friction properties
SPECIFICALLY made for Chrysler used transmissions. The ATF+3
and +4 are engineered synthetics for these transmissions.

It will VOID your powertrain warranty, if you have one.

I am not SO sure about the NAG1, but any Chrysler built transmission,
you'll tear the clutches up with a friction modifier. The NAG1 requires
ATF+4, so I would assume the same, and not add anything at all. I
experiment a lot, and do some pretty unconventional things, but i will
never mess with the auto transmission on a Chrysler product.

Do what you all want, it is your car, after all, but I will never add
anything into a Chrysler automatic transmission, that uses ATF+3 or +4.

The fact of the matter is, ATF+4 already has a friction modifier in it,
Lubrizol developed a new shear-stable viscosity index (VI) improver
specifically for ATF+4. The anti-shudder properties of ATF+3 were usually
degraded enough by 30,000 miles to cause noticeable shudder. The goal
in developing ATF+4 was to create a fluid that would match the performance
of ATF+3, but would retain the characteristics for at least 100,000 miles,
and not 30,000 miles. The friction coefficient of fresh ATF+3 and ATF+4
ares essentially the same, but as ATF+4 ages, it retains the friction coefficient
while ATF+3 would have degraded. ATF+4 also uses Group III base oils, and
why ATF+4 is more expensive, ATF+3 used Group II.

ATF+3 was already a friction-modified, high-quality transmission fluid.
You could say it was Dexron/Mercon with a friction modifier added,
but not just quite.

The initial tests of this VI improver in the MS9602 test fluids were
so remarkable that Chrysler modified the then-current ATF+2 spec (MS7176D)
to include it. Thus ATF+3 (MS7176E) fluid was born; it remained the factory
fill until ATF+4. [Lubrizol is still used in ATF+4 and is required in fluids licensed
for compatibility.] In testing done during development of ATF+4, Chrysler noted
the following viscosity loss from shearing for the following ATFs (20 hour KRL Shear Test):
Dexron III - 40% loss
Mercon V - 19% loss
Type 7176D - 32% loss
Type 7176E - 14% loss
Type 9602 - 10% loss​


DO NOT USE FRICTION MODIFIERS, it's already in ATF+4.

____________________________________________
joevlan likes friction modifiers then...

 

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I had this shudder. Trans shop said I needed new tq converter and trans rebuild and transfer case overhaul. Jeep has 115k on it so figured ok. After the repair it doesn't shudder in the 40moh light throttle range anymore. But on a hard launch I swear it does. Jeep jumps out hard then either is spinning the tires and I am feeling a bit of a hop or its frigging the torque converter shutter. It shudders then I hear the tires spinning . I ordered the modifier stuff to try. I already had to go back once to trans shop once cause the incorrectly filled the trans. If I have to go back again I'm gonna explode.
Have you performed a FULL flush ? Not talking here about drain plug and filter fix, but the full drain and flush from the oil cooler line to the tranny. Mine was shudderin very very bad on certain speed and load. It was like that for a couple of weeks, luckily I didn't abuse of it while in that condition. After the flush it was gone. Plus fluid level is critical, depending on the type of jeep/tranny various charts exist to setup your fluid level.
 

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A full flush is the only way you should be changing the fluid. The 5-qt pan
contents change is, well, okay, but with what's left will recontaminate the
new fluid anyway, if you're having this issue. You'll need to change the
filter as well, a clogged one inhibits flow = low pressures.

You only need to remove the TO cooler line to flush it. IF you want
to do it all at once:

To cooler line to an empty 5-gallon container.
From cooler line in 5-gallon container, with enough fluid for the flush.

ER Brake on, have someone start it, put it in gear, and as it pulls in fresh fluid
from the full tank, the old is sent to the empty tank. Stop when
you have all fresh fluid in it, reconnect lines. Once done, add about
a pint in through the dip tube to level off what was dripping out
as you were connecting the lines back up.

Lots of people flush this way, saves time and money. You're still gonna have
an old filter in it...
 

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I just bought a 2007 Police Charger with the Hemi with 80k miles. It gets a shutter when coming to a stop. I thought it was maybe the mds being slow to catch up. Could it be this transmission issue? Would it be safe to add the friction modifier to my transmission? Thanks for helping a newbie.
 

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I just bought a 2007 Police Charger with the Hemi with 80k miles. It gets a shutter when coming to a stop. I thought it was maybe the mds being slow to catch up. Could it be this transmission issue? Would it be safe to add the friction modifier to my transmission? Thanks for helping a newbie.
It is not MDS. It cuts off at just below 20 MPH.
 

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If you are running ATF3 or ATF4 tranny fluid you do not need friction modifier it's already part
of the oils properties a simple oil and filter change with ATF4 and you're good to go.

I was told at the dealership (when I ordered my oil and filter) NOT to add any friction modifiers, I was concerned
about the previous owner maybe not doing oil change regularly and wanted to know if it would help.
 

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My 05 Magnum RT only shudders in REVERSE and if I downshift and let the engine slow the car down (zero throttle applied). It shudders really hard in reverse when 5-10% throttle is applied. On deceleration, it shudders when the engine holds back real hard while manually downshifting it, especially in 1st gear as it gets the rpms way down close to idle.

ALL of my upshifts are very smooth.

I have this feeling its my rear differential, but I'm all ears if you guys have other thoughts!
Thanks
 

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help

It won't do anything for a lag inbetween shifts.The additive prevents the chattering during lockup..the same way it stops the chattering in an LSD differential. It either causes them to "grip" harder or to "slide" past each other without chatter. either way the shudder goes away. It just blows me away how most dealers don't bother to try this. instead they have unhappy customers who usually pay for transmissions or torque converters they don't need or it do not get fixed even after repeated visits.
I have a 2006 Dodge charger Daytona Edition. Where do i add the additive??
 
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