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5.7 HEMI--what is needed for 12's?

3.6K views 27 replies 11 participants last post by  LQQKOUT  
#1 ·
OK, so I am considering changing vehicles..Right now I have a 2003 GT that runs right around 12.9 N/A...I am trying to decide whether to get another GT(since I have all the parts already), or to take over my wife's 2005 Magnum RT(which I LOVE). Problem is I don't want to take a big hit in performance since I do alot of racing.

So, here is my question:

What mods would I need to get our Magnum into that 12.9-13.2 range while still staying N/A? We have a CAi now and bone stock I ran the car to a 14.1 ET without pulling fuse 17 or using any other "tricks".

Also, how much nitrous can the 5.7 handle before running into breakage issues?

any info is greatly appreciated.

Josh
 
#2 ·
Plenty of options out here to accomplish your goal. Obviously I am biased and would recommend giving Frank Racing a call. I am in the neighboorhood you are looking for now (N/A) but that is up here in NY. Being in Florida I think you'd need a bit more, maybe a more aggressive head than I am running and a converter.
 
#4 ·
What times have you run N/A? Also, how much are the mods like cam and heads for this car?
 
#3 ·
OK, so I am considering changing vehicles..Right now I have a 2003 GT that runs right around 12.9 N/A...I am trying to decide whether to get another GT(since I have all the parts already), or to take over my wife's 2005 Magnum RT(which I LOVE). Problem is I don't want to take a big hit in performance since I do alot of racing.

So, here is my question:

What mods would I need to get our Magnum into that 12.9-13.2 range while still staying N/A? We have a CAi now and bone stock I ran the car to a 14.1 ET without pulling fuse 17 or using any other "tricks".

Also, how much nitrous can the 5.7 handle before running into breakage issues?

any info is greatly appreciated.

Josh
Nitrous wise I would say no more than a 100 shot wet.
But lets see if some of the guys who actully spray their cars will come and comment.
 
#5 ·
If you go with Performance R&D:
CnC Ported, 5.7L heads
"Build a Cam" http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php?t=77701,off the cuff specs: "E/E @ 114 LSA with 2 deg advance", it should idle nice without fits...
Superchips Flashpaq *OR* DiabloSport Predator

If you go with Franks Racing:
Sidewinder cam, *possibly* Hellfire Cam
Street port heads, shaved for a compression bump
SuperChips Flashpaq tuner *OR* DiabloSport Predator tuner.

That combo has put a few Mag/300c/Chargers into the 12's

If you don't go with a supporting vendor, another Combo:
Comp 268 or Crane 216 cam
Mopar Performance "CnC" heads (from your mopar dealer)
B&G Flash *OR Possibly* a DiabloSport Predator tuner... its harder to use those cams on a Superchips flashpaq

ALL of those options can retain MDS and potentially put you in the 12's.

If you want to ditch your MDS stuff, chat with the vendors or get more info from the forum... you get a LOT more camshaft options...
 
#6 ·
WOW...this seems alot more involved than I expected. LOL

I was thinking headers, full exhaust, tuning, gears and drag radials would get me close. LOL
 
#7 ·
Well if you want to keep it simple, a 75 shot of N2O, superchips tune and drop in filter got me into the twelves.
 
#8 ·
if you guys(or gals) can, let me know times you ran on these setups or could run.

what was your ET and trap on that setup? approximately is fine
 
#9 ·
It was a 12.86 but I don't have the slip with me and can't recall the trap speed.
 
#10 ·
The problem we have in the *near* term, is that we have no gears, and tuning is "mixed at best".

With the DiabloSport Predator coming out with custom CMR tuning, you very well may get near the 12's with exactly what you quoted, except for the fact that we have NO aftermarket gears available to us. You are stuck with the 2.89's that are back there for now.

We do have a member that got into the 12's in an R/T with JUST heads, headers, exhaust, and DR's. no cam.

I would bet that a cam would be more bang for the buck.... but you still need to change the valvesprings.

Changing headers on the HEMI is a REAL PITA. it truly is easier to pull the heads, install the headers, and re-install the heads with headers attached. So if you are doing that, you might consider doing *something* to the heads at the same time (at the VERY least, install a set of 16 SRT8 exhaust springs for all valve springs, and get the heads milled a little bit for a compression bump... these don't cost much, and add a LOT to the combo). With good valve springs in there, you can always upgrade your cam at a later date, to spread out the cost a bit. With the compression bump, you also get a HUGE kick in the pants, the HEMI BEGS for a 10+ compression ratio.

so, "lower-buck" way:

Pull heads, get them milled, install 16 SRT8 valvesprings (all of that is cheap)
Install a set of Kooks headers & cats.
Get a set of DR's.
Find a tuner: Superchips or Predator (This is more for transmission adjustment than for engine adjustment).

That will be *close*, depending on launch and how good the air is that day.

Add one of the cams from above ($300-$450) and some more aggressive tuning to take advantage of the cam, and you are golden.
 
#11 ·
My setup is a little more extreme, and I am very much hurt by my Transmission Computer right now. (it hurts me more because of how much I changed stuff, than it does someone with less extreme modifications)

I hit upper 12's @ 111 while back.
Last time at the track it was warm and humid I was at 12.9 @ 106.5-ish

I expect to be mid/low 12's in the mid 11x.x's when I get the tuning options worked out.
 
#12 ·
thanks for all the responses..I really appreciate it.

I think I have what I need..I am guessing I could probably hit low low 13's with some exhaust, a good tune, a converter, and some drag radials...and do some extra damage on spray.

down the road I could upgrade the cam and heads and GIDDYUP. LOL
 
#13 ·
thanks for all the responses..I really appreciate it.

I think I have what I need..I am guessing I could probably hit low low 13's with some exhaust, a good tune, a converter, and some drag radials...and do some extra damage on spray.

down the road I could upgrade the cam and heads and GIDDYUP. LOL
sounds like a perfect plan.

N2O changes everything. I think I have seen 75 through 125 wet shots on stock 5.7 motors, Personally, i would keep it to 100 or less, keep your ring lands in once piece.
 
#16 ·
The HEMI blocks have not been cracked... the 6.1's and 5.7's are virtually identical in block strength. 600 HP has been seen @ the crank by the big 426 strokers, and more yet by Supercharger guys. I wouldn't worry about that until you get up in the 850+ RWHP... even then you probably have no issues.

I don't think anyone has lost an engine due to a crank or rod failure yet either, and there are plenty of Supercharged, and HUGE giggle gas spraying guys out there.

The *ONLY* weak spot, that has been PROVEN, on these engines, are the Ring Lands on the piston. If you run lean or get some serious knock, it will separate the material between the compression ring that the piston surface (Ring land), and those bits get wedged between the piston and head... causing head damage, cylinder wall damage, and sometimes rod failure due to the side-loading stress if the land gets caught near the edge of the cylinder.
 
#18 ·
12.87@108 here with headers, mids, cat-back, and intake with 100 shot; stock tires. There is more to be had since it runs incredibly rich; where is my Predator??? :beerchug:

Mike
 
#19 ·
Now we're talking. LOL..I just sported a chubby. That is a nice time since you still have plenty of stuff left to do.
 
#20 ·
Oh, and with the Predator you can software add the infamous "fan mod", releasing you from the large penalty these things get from heat soak. Whether you go that route or a manual fan mod, you need it for racing.

The 12.87 was with a 1.88 60' time, turning on the juice at 2700..... :pepper:

My next mods are a torque converter and cam along with the Diablo Predator (which all together may require DR's). 12 flat here we come.

Mike
 
#21 ·
Oh, and with the Predator you can software add the infamous "fan mod", releasing you from the large penalty these things get from heat soak. Whether you go that route or a manual fan mod, you need it for racing.

The 12.87 was with a 1.88 60' time, turning on the juice at 2700..... :pepper:

My next mods are a torque converter and cam along with the Diablo Predator (which all together may require DR's). 12 flat here we come.

Mike
awesome dude..just awesome. thanks for the info.
 
#22 ·
#24 ·
Those look similar to JBA's.....

Mike
 
#23 ·
5.7 HEMI--what is needed for 12's?
Money...

Lots and lots of money..

;)

Mike
 
#25 ·
Two things...
1. Have you been out to the Challenge Series out at Moroso? September 22nd (gates open at 4:30pm) is the next Challenge. There is Corvette, Mustang, Truck, Import and Mopar Challenges all going on that night. You may want to come out and see what some of the local LXs are doing for times as well as what mods they have on their cars.
2. Contact Roger @ Horsepower Sales in Pompano Beach. 954-984-8040. Roger has done a lot of work for me on my 2001 Corvette Z06 (which I traded in for my Daytona R/T) and on my 1986 Monte Carlo SS. The shop does work on all types of American cars and a couple of imports. May want to talk to him to see what he suggests...and he is local. Roger may be out at the Challenges on the 22nd. He is one of the main sponsors of that race series.
 
#26 ·
Bottom line, if you want 12's cheap, go with N2O and exhaust....if you want N/A 12's, it gets expensive....heads, cam, drag radials, torque converter, etc.....either way the others have pretty much given you the averages of what these cars can do. Good luck with your quest for 12's and happy modding!:thumbs_u:
 
#27 ·
ill add my opinion.

you need a good combination of parts and a good tune.

read up on what works and what dont. if you start working towards that combination, stick with it. as john will tell ya, it might not be easy, but it will happen.

steve-o