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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I installed my 3 pod A-pillar gauge pod this weekend. I had the gauges from a previous car, so I got the volt gauge and the oil pressure gauges working. I need to determine which trans. line is the one coming from the cooler before I connect the trans. temp. gauge. I took some pics and will have them posted today or tomorrow. If your thinking of installing an oil pressure gauge, I recommend tackling it while changing the oil since the filter needs to be removed.
Items needed, electric oil pressure gauge (I used an Autometer gauge), 3/8" to 1/8" adapter, 4"x1/8" pipe, 1/8" elbow.
My plan of attack:
Attach adapter to 4" pipe.
Remove oil filter
Remove hex head plug just above oil temperature sensor.
Install adapter end of pipe into engine
Attach elbow to pipe (angle as necessary for gauge sender unit)
Attach sender to elbow
Attach wire from gauge to sender
Install oil filter
Start car and check for leaks!
BTW....don't forget to connect the gauge. :wink:
I tapped the cigarette lighter for power.
 

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ekaz said:
I installed my 3 pod A-pillar gauge pod this weekend. I had the gauges from a previous car, so I got the volt gauge and the oil pressure gauges working. I need to determine which trans. line is the one coming from the cooler before I connect the trans. temp. gauge. I took some pics and will have them posted today or tomorrow. If your thinking of installing an oil pressure gauge, I recommend tackling it while changing the oil since the filter needs to be removed.
Items needed, electric oil pressure gauge (I used an Autometer gauge), 3/8" to 1/8" adapter, 4"x1/8" pipe, 1/8" elbow.
My plan of attack:
Attach adapter to 4" pipe.
Remove oil filter
Remove hex head plug just above oil temperature sensor.
Install adapter end of pipe into engine
Attach elbow to pipe (angle as necessary for gauge sender unit)
Attach sender to elbow
Attach wire from gauge to sender
Install oil filter
Start car and check for leaks!
BTW....don't forget to connect the gauge. :wink:
I tapped the cigarette lighter for power.
Is there really a need for an oil pressure guage? All you have to do is look at the EVIC for that info...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
If you use the EVIC and have the oil pressure displayed, you loose steering wheel controls, then you switch back and forth. Convenience(sp?) if anything. Like I said, I had the gauges from another car so I decided to give them another home. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Redfox0099 said:
for tapping into the the cigarette lighter did you just tap into the red wire (I was doing something today and I am having trouble getting the power to work so I am asking).
Yeah, I used the red wire for power, it was a quick source for switched power.
 

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Ghostface Mag said:
I've being looking for this ....THANKS ekaz..:thumbs_u: :thumbs_u: Here is what I have now...

View attachment 4751
Nice setup!

Just got my AutoMeter Air/Fuel in the mail . Waiting for the "D-PIC" and dual pod to come in. I bought both in the Cobalt series.

Does anyone know if you hookup the air/fuel with the ox sesor that is before the cat or after the cat and what color is the sending wire???

Here's where I bought>AutoMeter'sand Pods

Thanks in advance!
Rich
 

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Ghostface Mag said:
nCharger You will need a wide band setup which mean a fifth o2 sensor installed...If you try to tap off the factory o2 wires it'll draw a check engine light..BTW Thanks...:wink:
Thanks... will return the narrow band.
 

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I have the 3 pod a-pillar too.. I am going to be mounting a wideband o2, EGT and boost/vac guages..

one thing to note with guages, if you want an electronic boost/vac guage to properly calibrate when starting up, you CAN'T tap into the cig lighter.. you have to tap into the ignition line.. that one doesn't go off when starting the car like the cig does.. that way it's not resetting again when the car starts.. When I go from on to acc, they come on, when I start the car, they stay on instead of going out and then back on again..

with the 3 pod pillar from RPM, it's pretty cool, you use your stock a-pillar and just mount this to it. it's much easier to pull it all off, cut out the stock pillar for the wires.. and then bond the new pillar cover to the old pillar.. I am going to avoid using the 4 pins and will just use some epoxy instead.. will hopefully look better than having 4 pins in the corners...
 

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nCharger you don't have to return the Autometer Gauge you got (the Air/Fuel)...Autometer sells a wideband add-on kit (don't remember that #) to go with that...Thats what I did and brought,thats how I know about the check engine light situation...I tried tapping in the stock o2 too...:wink:
 

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Ghostface Mag said:
nCharger you don't have to return the Autometer Gauge you got (the Air/Fuel)...Autometer sells a wideband add-on kit (don't remember that #) to go with that...Thats what I did and brought,thats how I know about the check engine light situation...I tried tapping in the stock o2 too...:wink:
Yea I seen that...#2244 widebando2 kit...priced 100 to 120.00 depending where ya go.
 

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greggmendel said:
The original post mentions tapping the cig lighter for switched power. What is the best way to get at the source wire to tap it?
I recommend tapping into the ignition wire.. it's the pink and white striped one under the dash.. there is a post on it somewhere.. Legmaker72 posted a great article (why is it not in the KB?) here

I had tapped into the cigarette lighter, but that didn't work out too well with the boost/vac guage. Because the cigarette lighter goes off when you are starting the car it was having a negative effect on the calibration of the boost guage.. the wire in legmaker72's post is powered while the key is engaged.. and when starting the car, it's not part of the accessory circuit so power is not removed during the start....... try it.. plug something into the cig lighter.. tuen turn on the car.. see when it looses power when you start the car? that's not a good thing for guages that are trying to calibrate before the engine is started..(boost, wideband)..

it's easier to get to the ignition wire anyhyow. I don't recommend stripping the wire.. t-tap so you don't cut into the stock wiring too much.. you can solder if you want, but is a pain under tight quarters and I don't see how it's necessary as you won't be moving the wires around much.. (and a t-tap can be removed and nobody will ever be able to tell it was there)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The cig. lighter does go off while starting the car, not a big deal for me right now, but I have some other wiring stuff to do under the dash so maybe I'll switch to that ignition wire too.
 
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