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Reviving a very helpful thread. I have a 2010 Challenger R/T and am looking at custom track wheel options for next year. I'll compete in at least a dozen autocrosses and enter my first track day events.

I am leaning towards 18"x10" rims with +16mm offset (info from another thread) in order to run 275/35R18 200-treadwear rubber on all four corners. Hoosiers, Conti scrubs or other R-compounds are to remain a future possibility.

I'm working with an R/T spindle and I've read up about people needing spacers and studs to run this wide of a wheel and tire. I want to avoid those additions and hope a custom wheel is the solution.

Before I start talking to wheel companies, is there anything I'm not comprehending here regarding what wheel and tire sizes can work with the R/T spindle and suspension points, regardless whether the wheel is custom or not?
 

· Move Over People Are Racing
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I run 18's on my 06 300C for these reasons - less unsprung weight & I can get slicks in this size.

I got 2 sets of rims from Forgestar, as they could drill the correct bolt pattern and machine the hubs to the right offset to clear the front Brembos.

The wheel I selected was the C5 for good open cooling; strength and the classic 5 star pattern. Price was good as was the service.

In the pic below we have Nitto-1's mounted - 285 -35-18's. Nice tire - great grip; will handle many heat cycles; good on heavy cars and can tolerate some low levels of water on the track.

 

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Hi All,

I run 18x10s all round on my SRT8 Challenger. I initially went this way for the scrubs option. I was running -2.7deg front camber, and -2.5 rear, and I was still cording the scrubs in ~4 sessions. After a few sets, I decided they weren't worth it. Lately, I've been running the Nitto NT01s, which I really like. They also off them in 275/40R18, as well as the 35 profile. The 40 profile is actually rated for the weight of the beast, and the tires fill up the wheel arch by another inch so it doesn't look so stupid. If you want to go super crazy, there a bunch of metric sized slicks that I've been wanting to try, 680 and 710 diameter that would look pretty awesome.

Anyway, having gone back to the NT01s, if I could do it all again, I would have gone with 20x9.5s and run the NT01s. You'll get comparable performance, and I like it when the wheel gap doesn't look stupid. I've been happy with the 18s, and I'll keep them for Time Trial stuff.

A link to a few pictures of the challenger with 18s going hard through corners - just scroll the few pictures on the front page
http://www.tracktorque.net/

This one also shows the mad wheel gap that annoys me
http://40.media.tumblr.com/5d635539f049c205861911a65318a23f/tumblr_nv3dc32THo1uctx1vo1_1280.jpg

Car looks bad ass too Northern Rider
 

· POWER and SPEED solve many things
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Your 300 is sick, northern rider!! Just curious, how do these cars handle around the track? Are they pretty good for their size?
 

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Wow so you were beating cars way smaller than you huh?
What kind of question is that? It's a Mopar, Mopars beat things...imports, Mustangs, your wallet...

Did you notice a significant improvement in lap times when you added the front splitter and the rear spoiler?
 

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I put the front splitter on 2 years ago - modified from a Chally SRT OEM. I felt more front grip. This winter, we are engineering a better splitter - hopefully. The rear wing is carbon fibre from APR. it has made a huge difference on the mid to high speed twistys!


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I put the front splitter on 2 years ago - modified from a Chally SRT OEM. I felt more front grip. This winter, we are engineering a better splitter - hopefully. The rear wing is carbon fibre from APR. it has made a huge difference on the mid to high speed twistys!

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I've only done one road race on Big Willow a few years ago so most of my twisty experience is canyon carving, but I've been wondering what I could do to increase downforce, unfortunately a spoiler would have to go on top of the Magnum so that's out, I've found a few splitters to add some front end downforce though...
 

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I had a Maggie. I think a lip spoiler could work above the rear hatch. These cars are really nose heavy.

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Heavy, but they handle their weight well, it's no Elise/Miata, but the big girl can dance...
 
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Brembo brakes are great. I pair them with DBG rotors and racing pads.

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I ran the old R/T with Napa UP rotors and Akebono pads with some success, but for next year with the SRT I'm planning to swap out my EBC reds for EBC Yellow stuff pads and keep my Centric slotted rotors...but I don't think most of us are on your level. Not yet at least.
 
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Up until this year, my car was a daily driver. I ran Stoptech hybrid pads. When my Hellcat finally came, the 300 got stripped and dedicated to the track., with dedicated racing pads. They do make a difference.


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I put the front splitter on 2 years ago - modified from a Chally SRT OEM. I felt more front grip. This winter, we are engineering a better splitter - hopefully. The rear wing is carbon fibre from APR. it has made a huge difference on the mid to high speed twistys!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Out of curiosity do you have a write up on the challenger splitter install? I've been wanting to get a splitter for my car. Seems to me to be a nice cheap alternative to some of the more expensive options out there.
 

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Up until this year, my car was a daily driver. I ran Stoptech hybrid pads. When my Hellcat finally came, the 300 got stripped and dedicated to the track., with dedicated racing pads. They do make a difference.

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I haven't heard about the hybrids yet, did you run anything else to compare them to?
 
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