[Hopplesopple]

After an unseasonably dry fall in the PNW, it's finally raining again. I noticed that I had water coming out from behind the D-pillar cover at the back of the car. I took off some of the trim and tracked the leak to what I thought was the quarter glass. Took the car to a glass shop and they couldn't find any leak in the glass.
The car does have a roof rack but does NOT have a sunroof. Do I just need to pull the rack, throw some silicon at the bolts and put it back together? It kinda seems like the pinch weld between the roof and the side panel is where the water is running down.

 

[Spud66]

Not sure I'm reading this correctly, but if the leak is all the way at the back of the car, I'd be looking for dirt and debris near the hinge area of the rear hatch that would cause pooling.

 

[Hopplesopple]

You're correct, the water tends to "pool" (it's a few drops) at the speaker grilles above the wheel wells. I'm seeing it on both sides, and I currently have all the D pillar trim off.
In terms of debris, you're talking about like actual pine needles or something that would really keep the moisture near the hinge?

 

[rocknrolldrummer58]

I have a 2006 R/T, with a sun roof. this weekend weather change and my sun roof opened by itself. now my c pillar and spare tire well are soaked. I've owned the car since new, SEMA car, I can't get it to stay closed in the correct position. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

[Spud66]

You're correct, the water tends to "pool" (it's a few drops) at the speaker grilles above the wheel wells. I'm seeing it on both sides, and I currently have all the D pillar trim off.
In terms of debris, you're talking about like actual pine needles or something that would really keep the moisture near the hinge?

yes - needles, leaf debris etc. All that stuff is terrible for body work, clogging the weep holes at the bottom of doors etc.

 

[Hopplesopple]

yes - needles, leaf debris etc. All that stuff is terrible for body work, clogging the weep holes at the bottom of doors etc.

There's no big pile of anything around the hinges, or behind the hatch area. I pulled the roof rack, put silicon around the studs and reassembled using thread sealant on Saturday. Today I had water in the passenger side grille, but not the driver side. Had previously been getting it in both locations

 

[Spud66]

yeah, that seems like your issue. Makes sense to ensure that all roof penetrations are clean, tight and properly sealed.

 

[henry]

There's no big pile of anything around the hinges, or behind the hatch area. I pulled the roof rack, put silicon around the studs and reassembled using thread sealant on Saturday. Today I had water in the passenger side grille, but not the driver side. Had previously been getting it in both locations

That's weird. Those studs that hold the roof rails on are welded to the rood panel. If the leak is there you have a corrosion hole forming and have bigger issues.

 

[MAKOHAZE]

I have a 2006 R/T, with a sun roof. this weekend weather change and my sun roof opened by itself. now my c pillar and spare tire well are soaked. I've owned the car since new, SEMA car, I can't get it to stay closed in the correct position. Any ideas would be appreciated.

You could try the calibration procedure and maybe save a trip to the dealer.

STANDARD PROCEDURE
SUNROOF POSITION CALIBRATION
Press the power sunroof switch (Open, Closed, and Vent). If no movement occurs when either the open switch or
closed switch is pressed, but the system does move when the vent button is pressed and held, the system is not
calibrated. Perform the following procedure to position calibrate the power sunroof system.
1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position.
2. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof glass panel has moved to the full
vent position and the motor movement has stopped for at least 1 second.
3. Press the close switch on the power sunroof switch and hold for a moment (at least 100ms) and release. The
sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full close position. If the sunroof glass panel does not return to
the full close position, refer to the appropriate diagnostic information for full system diagnosis.
4. Verify proper system operation.
EXCESSIVE FORCE LIMITATION (EFL) CALIBRATION
NOTE: Verify the battery is in good condition prior to performing this procedure. Do not leave the vehicle on
a battery charger while performing this procedure. If the voltage at the sunroof motor/module drops below
11 volts or exceeds 15 volts at anytime while this procedure is being performed, the Excessive Force Limitation
(EFL) function will not be properly calibrated.
1. Turn the ignition to the RUN position.
2. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and hold until the sunroof glass panel has moved to the full
vent position and the motor movement has stopped for at least 1 second.
3. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue
travel to the full closed position. This will be considered the first sunroof closed position in a series of four
sunroof closes.
4. Press the vent button on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should move to the full
vent position. After the sunroof motor/module has stopped, press the close position on the power sunroof switch
and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position. This will be considered
the second sunroof closed position in a series of four sunroof closes.
5. Continue to move the sunroof glass to the “vent” then “closed” positions two more times so that the sunroof glass
has moved to the closed position a total of four times starting with the first sunroof close in step 3.
6. Press the open position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel
to the full open position.
7. Press the close position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue
travel to the full closed position. This will be considered the first sunroof closed position in a series of five
sunroof closes.
8. Press the open position on the power sunroof switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should move to the
full open position. After the sunroof motor/module has stopped, press the close position on the power sunroof
switch and release. The sunroof glass panel should continue travel to the full closed position. Continue to move
the sunroof glass to the “open” then “closed” position four more times so that the sunroof glass has
moved to the closed position a total of five times starting with the first sunroof close in step 7.
Verify proper EFL calibration by placing a standard pencil at the front of the sunroof and then moving the
sunroof to the full closed position. The sunroof should reverse direction upon contact without damage to
the pencil.

 

[SpoiledRottenAuto]

I got bad news for all of us magnum owners. I own 2 and I've seen the same thing on a number of other cars. My first one had rust underneath the seam sealer In the hatch gutter on the right hand corner. I had a friend who's a metal guy clean it out so he could fix it what was there. When he started opening it up he found that there was a hole in sheetmetal and he also found 2 other areas under the drip rail molding about 6" up either side of the hatch. He ended up taking the roofskin off cleaning up everything chemically treating it and replacing metal and using some modern day lead filler on some smaller holes.
Mangum 2 came out of California and his very clean except the left side roof skin where it meets the gutter has a 2 to 3 inch square area of rust that will need cutting out and welding.
And when I'm in the junkyards looking for parts I always check those areas on other cars and I've seen others mostly the 6" area up on either side of the drip rail molding at the back of the roof where there's a rust already starting. Apparently it probably wasn't primered properly underneath the roof skin and so you're getting some rusts from just moisture basically popping up from below. I've seen enough to mknow that it's the first place I look when looking at other cars to buy.
Ok so that's my 2 cents for everyone.
Happy Friday and have a nice weekend!
Brian


Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

[Magnum_Man]

Have you tried blowing out the drip tubes from the sunroof? Disconnect the tube at the sunroof drain nipple, then use an air compressor with an air blower to blow out anything that might be causing it not to drain.