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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Got quite a bit done this weekend. Handled the door latches, fuel cell mount, painted all the bare metal parts, mounted both seats and harness. Even vacuumed out the car and tied up the wiring a bit better.

I did realize I need to wait to wrap up the wiring and hoses until after I get the sheet metal put in.
That will allow me to figure out the battery mount, and run my wiring harness and install a cap/door over the fuel cell. I'll order a couple of 20 gauge sheets tomorrow and see if I can get that going in the next couple weeks.
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Discussion Starter · #62 · (Edited)
I have started on the sheet metal now. I ran the tub sections a little higher and chose an angular approach as it was easier to get it welded to the body. The car has a good flat area just below the side windows that made it easy to get something welded there. The little pieces around the D bars were fun. I was able to setup my daughter on the plasma cutter and just holler out the size I needed and she was cutting them for me. She went from cant stand close the me while cutting to doing it herself in about an hour.
Its not the prettiest thing, but with no guidance and first try I'm happy with how it looks, and how strong it is. I plan on sealing all the seams and then painting it all once I finish it up.
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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
More sheet metal done. All that's left is to silicone all the seams and paint the whole setup. I picked up a 12x12 access door off Amazon uses a screw driver to open, and I just welded some scrap metal for a handle on it.
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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
Got battery box mounted, seams sealed, and the battery cables all connected. Also painted the inside of the sheet metal, need to pick up more paint for the underside. Going to work on getting the bumper on, the lights working, and figure out the rear hatch/windows.

I had thought that since the door plugs were the same from the challenger to Magnum that the window switches would still work, but that is not the case. So I'm going to look at removing the motors and using pull straps for the windows. Rear hatch being an electric setup, I'm going to maybe replace the wiper with a knob that pulls a cable to open the hatch with the inside emergency release.
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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Well I was scheduled to get the exhaust done last Thursday, however the whole family got COVID so had to cancel that.
I also discovered that the car would not start, the fuel pump relay was not getting signal to switch on. After checking fuses, wiring harness, then plugged in the computer. Turns out I can't read or see the PCM, computer only sees the TCM. I suspect the PCM got fried when we were welding in the roll cage. I opened a ticket up with hptuners to see if they have any troubleshooting ideas, and if I'm able to move my license from the broken computer to a new one if needed. I hope it can be fixed as a new computer and license is 800$, which is why I just had the unlock my stock pcm.

I was able to get rear bumper on and mocked up a rear hatch switch.

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
HP tuners got back to me, they were able to recover the PCM, but not able to tell me how it got wiped out to begin with. However they got it fixed and are sending it back to me. Should be installed this weekend.

Over the weekend I was able to get some DPDT switches installed to operate the front windows, and I got a button installed where the rear wiper goes that operates the rear latch. We also got most of the lights working, just have to poke around with the rear tail light wiring, I'm missing a wire somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
I reinstalled the PCM, and still have the same issue. Im thinking its either the power or ground to the PCM.
They could read it on the bench.
I can read the TCM
Run relay switches
both power distribution boxes have power
PCM fuse was still good
Fuel pump relay signal wire is not getting any power
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 · (Edited)
Well I got the pcm to work. One of the plugs on the BCM was not seated all the way. After that we drove the car around the block. Engine was not running smoothly, Transmission felt like mush, and the fuel pump sounded squeaky. Good news is the brakes worked well, and the steering worked. I think the transmission just needs to be topped off after the fluid has circulated a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Have appointments scheduled Friday for the exhaust, alignment, and new windshield. Then if it all goes according to plan will be taking down the track for its first test hit.

I need to clearance around the drive shaft a bit, add a front driveshaft loop, and I also bought stronger springs for the rear. currently have 200lb springs, and bought 300lb ones. The rear felt a bit soft. Should be able to get the driveshaft stuff done tomorrow evening. Hopefully this weekend ill be uploading videos of the first test hit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Well $15k+ 2 years, and you get 2 passes.

Something was off with the transmission. First run good burnout, then left it in auto it took off hard shifted until 3rd then would not shift. Hit it over to manual then tried to shift it hung then shifted. Vibrated bad going through the lights.

2nd pass I decided to manually shift. Got to 3rd and it hung and would not shift. Took three pulls for it to shift, then it double shifted to 5th. Got towards the top end bad vibration, then explosion sound. Thought the drive shaft messed up. Lights for the gears were flashing, would rev but not move. Got to the end pulled off and it sounded like the parking pawl was toasted. It's was buzzing and not letting the car move. Went to tow it back, and even in neutral parking pawl was popping. Had to pull the safety lever to get the car to roll. Whole under side of the car is covered in fluid, and as I was looking at the drive shaft it was fine no scrapes or anything, but looks like the top back of the transmission blew apart. There were chunks of casing sitting on it.

Sad thing was the engine felt great, and car was pulling hard of the line, and even when it over shifted it was pulling hard. I think the engine was modified or tuned before I got it from the wrecked challenger, and I suspect the tune was bad for the TCM.

The worst thing is that I won't be making it to drag week. I can't afford a new transmission, and don't have the time to put one in and test it. Hopefully someone else from the wait-list gets my spot and does better than me. Maybe I can try again next year.

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Here are the pics. TCM can't shift it and lights just flash on the shifter. The car can be pushed by hand in park, just kinda pops. Not sure exactly what happened, but I think it's a bit more than just replacing the tail housing.
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Ugh! I've got the transmission out of my car if you're interested. It was built by Enhanced Transmissions and it might get you by for a bit. Trans is out of the car, sitting in my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Thanks for the offer, I dont think I will worry about it right now. We are moving to Colorado next month, so all my extra cash is going there, and then I will have to worry about emissions and such, so I think the Magnum may become a straight race car only. However I will do Drag week at some point, just have to find another car that is 1975 or older. Already have a stroker LA 360 block and crank and rods in the shop, so I will find something to put them in.

I think the magnum is going to get a TH400, stroker kit, and supercharger. Start with the TH400 next year and see what happens.
 
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