[Lenogris]

Yep I agree I would not have cut up the body but the tires would have sat back further. However right now would probably be easier to move it than it was to put it in. Since it's on wheels I can cut the frame and roll it to the correct location and then just weld it back in.

First time was a pain to do solo, lots of measuring stacking blocks, moving the jack cutting and such. Should be easier this time. I will see about doing it today if my heater out there can keep up with the cold today.

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[Lenogris]

Ok got it moved forward, and also lowered it a touch more. It looked out of level/square when we angled it back to the bumper. After having my dad jump on the back we realized the springs that came in the kit were way too light. So I upgraded from the 12inch 150lb springs to 14inch 200lb springs.

this is with the 150lb springs They only had about 2 inches of travel left in the shock.

here is the 200lb springs as you can see with the shock mounts at the same location it sits much higher, and has plenty of travel now. Once I get everything on the back I will adjust the ride height a bit more.

this is how we ended up extending the rear, one of the few welds I thought looked good. Going to add some strapping on the sides at an angle, once i get the fuel tank and figure out how it fits.

Today I was working on the cross link, and cut it to fit. Had to go to the store and buy a vice just to hold the rod to tap. Then after all that effort had it going smooth, and broke my tap handle. So waiting for a new one to come in the mail, along with another tap just incase.

 

[coanan]

Tap sockets

Lisle Tool 70940 Tap Socket Set-3 Piece

Lisle 70500 Tap Socket Set- 8 piece

 

[the3dgm]

The stance looks much better with the stronger springs, good to see you're back on track! :thumbs_u:

 

[reefstar]

The extra work was worth it!!! Looks way better.

 

[Lenogris]

Got the tap figured out so its all straight now. Now just gotta save for a couple of checks to get the drive shaft. Also trying to coordinate the roll cage install, so it may happen before the drive shaft.

 

[the3dgm]

From my own experience, in my youth, double check, then triple check the drive shaft balance. It will save you so much grief!!

 

[Lenogris]

Yea I agree. I am going to have a local shop make it. Quoted me 885$ for a 3.5 inch aluminum slip shaft. Did not expect it to cost that much, but I guess the fact that it needs to be a slip shaft.

 

[the3dgm]

That does seem a bit pricey, but then again, it is a custom made piece. Everything is overpriced to me any more! Though slip-shafts aren't as rare as they were when I was young. Just googled my 'Telescoping' drive shaft that my old '60 Chevy had, the shaft price wasn't too bad, but, the carrier bearing, when I was young, sold for about $5, now $115. . .

 

[Lenogris]

Well it's been a long while since I worked on the Magnum. I'm back at it again. I was able to secure a spot at drag week this year, so I have no choice but to make it work by September. I have already ordered fuel system parts, seat, harness, and some brake lines and line lock. I'm going to bypass the abs module and run my own brake lines.

I plan on ordering a custom bent roll cage kit online and having someone local weld it in after I tack it in. I ordered the driveshaft and of course since I waited it was 1k$ vice the 885 I was quoted last year, however because of the length it needs to be 4inch vice the 3.5.

Currently working on sheet metal for the back half. Trying to figure out how to do a rear firewall with a hatchback, or maybe a fuel cell enclosure vice the firewall.

I will also need to come up with a way to open and close the hatch as it's normally an electric switch. Also opening and closing windows without the electric motors, and some sort of door handles or latches.

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[Lenogris]

I have got the brake lines in and tight. That includes the line lock and proportioning valve. I also have the original fuel pump mounted into a summit fuel cell and a hole cut where it should go.

I have the rest of the fuel parts ordered, electric cutoff switch, and my pcm coming in this week. Plus I pick up my drive shaft tomorrow, and roll cage should be shipped the 12th.

I should be ready to very slowly drive it down the street by the 10th and then finish up roll cage and sheet metal the following weekend. Will give me plenty of time to tune the car.

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[Lenogris]

Got the driveshaft in and it's going to need work on the tunnel. Shaft rubs on the front insulation so just gotta cut that part out, but towards the back it's got maybe 1/2 inch with cars weight onto the tires. That weight is still minus fuel, hatch, and sheet metal so it will need more clearance. Looks like I may need to cut a foot or so out of the back section to make it a little taller.

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[muskipper]

serious build... wow

 

[Lenogris]

So I tried making the battery cables and installing the cut off switch. Turns out making the big cables is just a tad harder than I expected, and I should have bought a few extra lugs. I got the hang of it, but I wasted 2 lugs practicing soldering. So now I have to wait for delivery of a couple more terminals, as I bought all the ones local to me the first try.

I was able to get the brakes wrapped up and bled. I also learned those fittings have to be quite a bit tighter than I expected, and nearly every fitting leaked.

I was also able to get the tunnel area, where the drive shaft was too close, cut away. After I get the roll cage I will work on all that sheet metal.

Next steps for this week/weekend, are to:
Finish the battery cables and test the cutoff switch
Make a metal box to hold the fuel cell


Now questions, is anyone able to clarify the NHRA battery box mounting rules? It states mounted to frame, however I'm not really sure how to do that. My intention was to mount the battery box on that shelf at the very back behind the passenger side rear tire, as you can see in some of the pictures. There is kind of a chunk of molded frame under that shelf area, but its cut up and not attached to anything. So what would you guys do?

 

[Lenogris]

Stated the car yesterday, sounds healthy as ever. I confirmed that my alternator re routing worked, and that the cut off switch killed the car without breaking anything. I started working on an enclosure for the fuel cell, but I need to wait for the roll cage to finish mounting it.

I think everything i have now is pending roll cage fitting. Fuel cell, battery, wiring, sheet metal, seat all need to have the roll cage in first. I think I will spend some time cleaning the car up while i wait for the roll cage, which should be shipped out today.

 

[Lenogris]

Here is the video of me testing out the re wiring for the cut off switch.

I also made an intake, and added an IAT sensor. Plus the roll cage arrived, and got mufflers in too.

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[RobsSXT]

Any updates?

 

[Lenogris]

Yes I do. have been gone on business so no chance to upload the pics, but the roll cage is in and half welded half tacked in. Also tacked in the seat belt and seat mounting tabs and mounted the seat.

I will say hindsight its worth the money just to pay someone else to build and install the cage. Even with a gutted interior figuring out the lengths to trim the pre bent tubes, and also figuring out which angle to notch the tubes was very hard. We did get it all in there, though it may no be as tight or as good a fit as possible it should meet all the requirements.

I will post some pictures tonight, and show the progress on the fuel cell holder im working on too.

 

[Lenogris]

Pictures as promised. You can see I took out the seat and used extra 1 1/4 from the roll cage kit to mount the anti submarine tab to. Should be getting everything else finished welded this week.

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[Lenogris]

Cage is now fully welded in. I plan on painting it and finishing out my fuel cell mount this weekend. After that is door hardware/handles for the inside, sheet metal for the back half, and the exhaust. Will need to add a brake pedal switch for brake lights, and hook back up the rear bumper and lights. Nearly done, hopefully with the long weekend I can get the brakes, door handles, fuel cell, and hatch/bumper reinstalled.