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Thread: Reflash problem

  1. #1
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    Reflash problem.....MORE PROBLEMS!!

    I have a 2013 Challenger that I was running a supercharger on and the tune was done by Arrington. But I have now gone back to stock and of course it runs like crap on that tune. I had planned to have the ECU reflashed back to stock so I took it to my local dodge dealer and they tried to flash it but said it wouldnt accept the reflash. Has anyone else had this problem and what did you do about it? I would have thought a reflash would be no problem but it seems it is!
    Last edited by ktmguy; 11-07-2018 at 02:42 PM.



  2. #2
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    Did you have the tuner tool to try taking back to stock before you went to the dealer?
    Most of the time if you have the tool say a trinity you can put it back to stock yourself



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  3. #3
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    Arrington did the Supercharger and tune at there shop back in 2013 and I purchased the car shortly after the install of the supercharger. There was no tuner tool given with the car but last year I did try to marry the trinity I have around from my last Challenger but it rejects linking to it. I actually called Arrington to question them as to why I cant use my tuner and they said if they did the tune it wouldnt work. I didnt really question them any more about it...wished I had now because I called them this morning and they have been bought out since the last time I talked with them. They also said they really dont know how to help me and they were surprised that the reflash didnt take.
    Last edited by ktmguy; 10-01-2018 at 05:40 PM.

  4. #4
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    If you know which tool (DiabloSport, etc.) Arrington used, maybe that company could help.

    If it was a DiabloSport tuner, I don't see why DS couldn't reflash it back to stock with your calibration code. I mean, they reassigned my VIN and stock calibration to a PCM I bought on here.

    Might be worth a call or an email.

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  5. #5
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    Ah. Ya I remember that period where they was using some sort of tuner looked like a edge product from yrs past

    I heard people talking about them setting the tune for the car without a programmer bet never heard more

    Only thin you could do possibly maybe call aj and see if you could send him the pcm to flash it back ?
    Sorry not much help here


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  6. #6
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    sounds liek they used the old Mopar software which basically locks the pcm from being flashed with anything else.

    My guess is you'll need a new PCM to get around this....maybe reach out to Ah and see if he can help.
    Please don't PM me, I don't always have time to go through them!
    Likes 11R/TnBLK, ronan978 liked this post

  7. #7
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    Thanks everyone for the help! I want to get this car sold and Im not wanting to wait weeks to figure this out so Im thinking this will be easier if I just get a new PCM..... I see refurbished ones on Ebay for $300...anyone know if that is a good way to go??

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    sounds liek they used the old Mopar software which basically locks the pcm from being flashed with anything else.

    My guess is you'll need a new PCM to get around this....maybe reach out to Ah and see if he can help.
    Thanks and who is Ah??

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmguy View Post
    Thanks and who is Ah??
    I think he meant AJ lol

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  10. #10
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    Thanks for the all the help here and I ended up sending out my ECU to have it reflashed by a ECU repair shop. They were able to reflash it back to stock but now this has opened a whole can of worms! First off when I installed the ECU I had instant error codes, the ESP/BAS and limited slip light are on too. The error codes I pulled are for the air temp sensor and throttle position sensor. I didn’t worry too much about it at the time and though that the ECU is just learning everything again. I let it run for about 30 minutes but the check engine light never went out and same with the ESP and limited slip light. As It ran the idling seemed nice and smooth but It was late so I decided to work with it again in the morning then I can give it some drive time too. In the morning I decided to recalibrate the throttle before starting it. Did that and started it but right away I got the check engine light, ESP and limited slip light. So I ran the code reader and this time no temp sensor or throttle position sensor error. The error it gave was P0335 (crank position sensor). So I decided that maybe I need to take it for a drive so the ECU can get more varied inputs then just idling in the shop. It ran well as I drove easy and I could tell its defiantly running stock but it seem to cut power when I tried to accelerate hard. I ended up driving around for about 20 minutes and nothing changed….same error code and ran good until you tried to push it. So I pulled the ECU and decided to call the shop that did the reflash. I was planning to just send it back and have them investigate the ECU further. When I called they advised that the ECU could have cause a voltage spike so maybe it actually took out the crank sensor. So reluctantly I went out and bought one because I truly feel that there is nothing wrong with the sensor. Anyway I installed it and ran it but got the check engine light again and guess what it’s a CRANK POSITION ERROR!!! So I decided to drive it just to see if that would clear the error but nope still there. I pulled the ECU again and again was going to send it back! Called the place to get the shipping info but again the guy advised me to give it more drive time. So I did as he requested again but this time it ran rough and more irregular then before. So I ran the code reader again and pulled a new code P0300 (random misfire) the crank position sensor error was still there too. The check engine light was flashing on and off too…it didn’t do that before and I know when that light is flashing that it’s in a condition that you shouldn’t drive it. I also had the same error before when I was running the supercharger. It ended up that the intake gasket had failed. Looked like when the supercharger was installed they had broken the gasket and overtime created a leak along the break. So now that’s got me thinking to check for a intake leak since I had pulled the supercharger and installed the stock intake. So it could be possible that something is up with one of the intake gaskets on the OEM manifold but I wouldn’t think that would cause a false crank position error? And also it didn’t run rough until this last round of ECU reinstall and the rough Idle seemed to come and go as I ran it. Anyway I plan to check the intake this weekend but I feel like I’m chasing my tail here and I have no clue on how these ECUs actually work internally. I would have thought since it was reflashed it would wipe out all of what Arrington had loaded but is it possible that some of what Arrington had done when they tuned this is still there confusing the ECU?? Also after I brought the car back to stock and still had the Arrington tune there was no check engine light. I had also ran it quite a bit in the garage and drove the car back and forth to the exhaust shop. It was about a 30 trip and although it ran like crap under load it never triggered a check engine light. Seems strange that now that the reflash is done I have so many errors happening! Anyway any advice or education on this is appreciated!
    Last edited by ktmguy; 11-07-2018 at 02:41 PM.

  11. #11
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    Man....hard to read!!

    Whats the current state of things?

    That code is generally the need for a crank relearn to be done, I hate that their first idea was to throw parts at it.
    What PCM house decides the pcm may have caused a voltage spike and killed a sensor?? Thats just crap troubleshooting right there...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    Man....hard to read!!

    Whats the current state of things?

    That code is generally the need for a crank relearn to be done, I hate that their first idea was to throw parts at it.
    What PCM house decides the pcm may have caused a voltage spike and killed a sensor?? Thats just crap troubleshooting right there...
    Yeah sorry kind of rambling on and too much info......Currently Its throwing the P0300 and P0335 codes. I also still have ESP and limited slip lights too. The check engine light is flashing, Idle is rough and it’s also not smooth as you rev it. Once in a while the check engine light does quit flashing and it idles smooth again but still does not feel quite right as you rev it. How do you do initiate a crank relearn?

    I thought the same thing when he told me that the ECU could take out the sensor with a voltage spike. I wouldn’t have even replaced it but I ended up finding one for $14 so I thought what the heck.
    Last edited by ktmguy; 11-07-2018 at 06:15 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
    sounds liek they used the old Mopar software which basically locks the pcm from being flashed with anything else.

    My guess is you'll need a new PCM to get around this....maybe reach out to Ah and see if he can help.
    This statement is on point. Back then API possessed the MOPAR "Keys" to reprogram rolling code pcm's. Once its done it is permanently married to that engine config. Best option is New PCM, flashed by dealer to your engine / VIN
    I'm sharing this info as
    AJ tuned my M11 392 combo this way. I was BETA for his initial tests.

    Hope it helps

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    M11/ 392

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by punisher69 View Post
    I think he meant AJ lol

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    Contact AJ (hemituner). He will sell you a pcm. Config yo your situation. No ebay .do it right and save the headache..Reflash problem

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by ktmguy View Post
    Yeah sorry kind of rambling on and too much info......Currently Its throwing the P0300 and P0335 codes. I also still have ESP and limited slip lights too. The check engine light is flashing, Idle is rough and it’s also not smooth as you rev it. Once in a while the check engine light does quit flashing and it idles smooth again but still does not feel quite right as you rev it. How do you do initiate a crank relearn?

    I thought the same thing when he told me that the ECU could take out the sensor with a voltage spike. I wouldn’t have even replaced it but I ended up finding one for $14 so I thought what the heck.
    Get a crank relearn done to see if it resolves the issues.
    The misfires are generally a result of the crank sensor not being synced properly.

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