1) will an SRT differential bolt in? (Meaning axles, driveshaft, crossmember don’t need change or modification)
2) are all first-gen SRT differentials Getrag?
3) is the differential used on the 5.7 LX’s the same as the v6 cars?
Sorry I could not find an overview of the differentials using search. At 165k my differential is whining. Changed the oil and lots of metal flakes.
just figuring out my options. Any enlightenment appreciated.
Thanks!
1) will an SRT differential bolt in? (Meaning axles, driveshaft, crossmember don't need change or modification)
2) are all first-gen SRT differentials Getrag?
3) is the differential used on the 5.7 LX's the same as the v6 cars?
Sorry I could not find an overview of the differentials using search. At 165k my differential is whining. Changed the oil and lots of metal flakes.
just figuring out my options. Any enlightenment appreciated.
Thanks!
1) No SRT diff will be a straight bolt in for your car.
2) No 1st gen SRT diffs are Getrag
3) Depends on the ratio, I know some V6s got ratios that weren't available behind V8 but that's most likely due to it having a 4sp instead of the 5sp.
What you want is a Getrag, but you have to be willing to give up your 2.82 ratio for a 3.06 or lower (higher numerical) gear. It will bolt to the cradle easy peasy and uses a 3 bolt flange so you can keep your driveshaft. You will need the axles and hubs that go with that differential as well as the correct rear coupler and bolts. This is a 3.06 from a 2012 SRT in a 2006:
Thanks for the great info, Magnoom! The Getrag sounds like the hot setup, but replacing the axles and hubs adds up.
1)Which cars come with Getrag - I'm guessing 2011 and later SRT and Scat Pack?
2)do the new hubs bolt in to the old knuckles?
3) what is the coupler you are referring to?
Thanks!
Yes as far as I know.
Also 6 speed RT cars came with Getrags. 3.91s in ones with 20" wheels and 3.73s with 18" wheels.
You will also need the pinion bolt for the Getrag. It is the one front bolt that holds the differential into the cradle.
Long ago, I was chastised for using incorrect vernacular :^D
If the pic you posted happened to be the other side, folks would see that three of the steel inserts protrude from the KEVLAR filled rubber. The protrusions must fit snugly / precisely into the yoke.
I have a guibo that was included with my 3.91. My 3.91 was from a mopar '12 5.7 300S. I know the 392 guibo is beefier, but I would rather save the $150 and run the current guibo from the mopar 12' and throw in the pink bolts. Would this be ok? The 3.91 and "donut" only had 61,000 on them.
For what it's worth I used p/n 68090506aa instead of the 505aa that is commonly list by folks doing GETRAG swaps. Part number 506aa is the coupler used of manual transmission equipped cars which all have GETRAG carriers. Also it is around $115.00 vs $150.00 for the 505aa.
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