Been out of the game for more than a year and looks like a lot has happened since then. I purchased a 2014 300 SRT8 which is still rocking the 5 speed NAG1, I need to build it to handle my future goals (800whp). I have always gone with Paramount or SHR, both have served me well, not really that much difference in behavior, if anything the paramount (conqueror) shifted a little a little softer/longer given the same tuning/torque management settings versus the SHR war Viking, but also had a TOUCH better downshift behavior when coming to a stop, very minor but was notable enough.
Who is now the go-to shop or place to get a solid built NAG1?
Transparency is an important aspect of all of this.
Neither one of you are being transparent as to who you are, what financial benefit you may/may not have to the product you are recommending, and nor are you supporting vendors.
None of that is to meant to disparage the company you guys represent, but its not cool that you try to disguise a biased opinion on a product to the general forum when you have a direct connection with the product in question. Nor is it fair to the guys who pay money to voice their known and clearly displayed vendor biased opinions here.
Edit: and forgive me if i am wrong, but i don't believe Blueboy is a vendor, but it is almost impossible to tell on tapatalk.
Then my apologies, as you are not listed as a supporting vendor under the vendor forum nor does "supporting vendor" tag appear under your username avatar.
And you should really get the Whipple guy to chip in also. [emoji106]
Pretty sure a valve body won’t cure the gear slippage the other vendors machine the baskets for extra friction plates and steels. The performance friction’s and steals used by these transmission builder vendors manufacturers themselves only rate there fractions and steals to 750 hp, are you saying that the OEM frictions and steels are every bit as good as the aftermarket performance? While I do believe that it is a stout well built transmission, Too many people have burned through them rather quickly above the 500 hp Mark
Adding pressure to your clutches not just when shifting but after shifting will add much more clamping force to the clutches. Last season we ran a stock trans in a full weight jeep with our valve body and trans tuning. This jeep ran all season running high and mid nine second 1/4 miles. As a test. This trans limits was now not the clutches but the input shaft. Our valve body with proper tuning will handle a lot more torque then most of you expect. Btw horse power is not your trans limiter but torque.
I will say that I am not aware of anything mechanically that is done to the valve body that cannot now be done via a tune. I helped HP Tuners engineers along with a few other very reputable tuners on this forum crack and decipher the TCM coding. Everything is there to be tuned, the mechanical pressure limits of the valves that can be commanded are beyond what you would ever need, I dont see why there is any need for mechanically altering the valve body in any way. Before the tuning control was available it all made sense.
While testing has shown probably a dozen cars or less living on a stock tuned trans setup, for the most part I have never seen a stock NAG1 live up to launch after launch at the track, or many 3-4 gear roll racing pulls, when put behind a torque monster like a whipple or KB.
Make this a bit quick sense I'm working. Tuning will only give you what the valve body is capable of. Or when the solenoids are maxed out. Having more pressure where needed when needed is what makes our valve body so good and tune-able. Some of the other valve bodies out there just crank up the pressure basically everywhere and make it bang gears but not shift as needed and making it unable to tune to perfection. Now the clamping force on our valve body is extremely higher compared to others vb but the sifting pressure is controllable along with the clamping force needed to tune these trans to hold much more torque than designed for. Hope that helps with a quick response.
And if you had a hand in us being able to tune these trans. Thank you so much. A hero for sure.
I will start off by letting everyone know that does not already that I am the designer of the valve body for Ding's. I have my own business that I do other related stuff and do not sell these to the public but I am involved. So I do have skin in the game so to speak. Troy and I also license and sell them to other vendors that use them as well. Including one listed here by the OP.
I did not mean to speak out of step and apologize for being misleading.. I did immediately let troy know that I posted as to have him come here as a vendor.
I am sorry but it is not correct that with tuning that the valve body does not need to be altered. The stock valve body is hampered by a fairly low amount of pressure to use in high hp applications. There are two ways to double the holding capacity of a clutch. One is to double the amount of clutches. So say go from 5 - 10. Since there are absolutely no clutch packs that this can be done in no matter what parts you machine etc. etc. You cannot double the holding capacity.
The 2nd way is to double the amount of pressure. This can be done. Now the trick is to do this and not screw up the way the valve body works and the balance of the valves during shifting. And then to tune for that pressure in the areas where it is not needed.
As far as how many vehicles and how long they are lasting with big tq. Well I could not say as to that exactly but I can say that if you have proper tuning and follow by example that it works reliably and Troy has done an amazing job on the daily driving aspect of the tune. That low 9s Jeep drives around like a stock vehicle. I mean it is amazing. I just got a ride in it a few months ago for the 1st time and could not believe that it drove so nice.
Simple fact is that unless you are breaking input shafts or other hard parts that the valve body and again proper tuning can get you there.
We have now done it over and over again. You have to have tq management on for your shifts and your tq tables in your engine tune have to be correct etc.
Also long term health of any transmission from any builder requires proper cooling. If you are back to back racing and getting your trans hot then it will fail. These start getting really sloppy around 210-215F. Above that you are just going to start melting it down.
Line pressure is not really the correct term here. There is working pressure, it has a minimum regulation on the spring at around 70 psi. That is the source pressure or regulated pump pressure. It then feeds several other static regulating valves. Such as lube pressure, shift solenoid supply pressure, etc. These are regulated at around 110psi as mentioned. So your PWM pressure valves. Or brown/blue tops cannot make more that this. But that is not what shift pressure is or working pressure. This is your modulator pressure and shift control pressure.
As far as clutch capacity goes from increase pressure. Sure. There are limiting factors of course. Like heat dissipation and the pumps ability to supply a pressure. Retention of the c clip, coning of the clutches. But otherwise it is a linear relationship.
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