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Tranny removal and install guide

48K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  shark7000 
#1 · (Edited)
Hope this info helps someone trying to do this on there own Good luck...

REMOVAL

NOTE: If the transmission is being reconditioned (clutch/seal replacement) or replaced, it is necessary to perform the TCM Adaptation Procedure using the scan tool (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Transmission Control - Standard Procedure) .
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1.Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2.Raise and support the vehicle.
3.Remove the exhaust system.
4.For AWD vehicles, remove the transfer case, (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Transfer Case - Removal) .
5.For RWD vehicles: a.Mark propeller shaft (1) and the transmission flange (4) for assembly alignment.b.Remove the bolts (2) holding the rear propeller shaft coupler (3) to the transmission flange (4).c.Slide the propeller shaft (1) rearward until the coupler clears the propeller shaft pilot (5) on the transmission output shaft.

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NOTE: The starters are located on the right side of the transmission for RWD vehicles and they are on the left side for AWD vehicles.
6.Remove the bolts (2) holding the starter motor (1) to the transmission. (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Starting/STARTER - Removal)
7.Remove the starter (1) from the transmission starter pocket and safely relocate.

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8.Remove the bolt (2) holding the torque converter access cover (1) to the transmission.
9.Remove the torque converter access cover (1) from the transmission.

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10.Remove any splash shields necessary to gain access to the crankshaft damper bolts.
11.For gas engines, rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts (1) are accessible. Then remove bolts (1) one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.

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12.For diesel engines, rotate crankshaft in clockwise direction until converter bolts (1) are accessible. Then remove bolts (1) one at a time. Rotate crankshaft with socket wrench on dampener bolt.

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13.Disconnect the gearshift cable (1) from the transmission manual valve lever (3).
14.Loosen the bolts holding the shift cable retaining strap (2) to the transmission.
15.Remove the shift cable (1) from the transmission.

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16.Disconnect 13-pin plug connector (1). Turn bayonet lock of the adapter plug (2) anti-clockwise.
17.Remove the 13-pin connector (1) from the transmission.
18.Remove the fill tube bolt at the transmission case.

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19.Disconnect transmission fluid cooler lines (1) at transmission fittings (2) and clips (3)
20.Disconnect the transmission vent hose from the transmission.

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21.Raise transmission slightly with service jack to relieve load on crossmember and supports.
22.Remove bolts (2) securing rear support and cushion (3) to transmission crossmember (1).
23.Remove bolts attaching crossmember (1) to frame and remove crossmember.

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24.Remove the bolts (1) holding the engine oil pan (2) to the transmission (3), gas engines.

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25.Remove all remaining bolts (2) securing the transmission (3) to the engine block (1).
26.While removing the fill tube from the transmission case, carefully work transmission and torque converter assembly rearward off engine block dowels.
27.Hold torque converter in place during transmission removal.
28.Lower transmission and remove assembly from under the vehicle.
29.To remove torque converter, carefully slide torque converter out of the transmission.

INSTALLATION

1.Check torque converter hub and hub drive flats for sharp edges burrs, scratches, or nicks. Polish the hub and flats with 800/1000 grit paper and crocus cloth if necessary. The hub must be smooth to avoid damaging pump seal at installation.
2.If a replacement transmission is being installed, transfer any components necessary, such as the manual shift lever and shift cable bracket, from the original transmission onto the replacement transmission.
3.Lubricate oil pump seal lip with transmission fluid.

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4.Place torque converter (1) in position in transmission (2).
CAUTION: Do not damage oil pump seal or converter hub while inserting torque converter into the front of the transmission.
5.Align torque converter to oil pump seal opening.
6.Insert torque converter hub into oil pump.
7.While pushing torque converter inward, rotate converter until converter is fully seated in the oil pump gears.
8.Check converter seating with a scale and straightedge (A). Surface of converter lugs should be at least 19 mm (3/4 in.) to rear of straightedge when converter is fully seated.
9.If necessary, temporarily secure converter with C-clamp attached to the converter housing.

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10.Check condition of converter driveplate. Replace the plate if cracked, distorted or damaged. Also be sure transmission dowel pins are seated in engine block and protrude far enough to hold transmission in alignment.
11.Apply a light coating of Mopar® High Temp Grease to the torque converter hub pocket in the rear pocket of the engine's crankshaft.
12.Raise transmission (3) and align the torque converter with the drive plate and the transmission converter housing with the engine block (1).
13.Move transmission forward. Then raise, lower, or tilt transmission to align the converter housing with the engine block dowels.
14.While installing the fill tube into the transmission case, carefully work transmission forward and over engine block dowels until converter hub is seated in crankshaft. Verify that no wires, or the transmission vent hose, have become trapped between the engine block and the transmission.
15.Install two torque converter housing bolts (2) to attach the transmission to the engine.
16.Install remaining to engine bolts (2). Tighten to 39 N·m (29 ft.lbs.).
17.Install the fill tube bolt at the transmission case. Tighten the bolt to 12 N·m (105 lbs in.).

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18.Install the transmission (3) to engine oil pan (2) bolts (1). Tighten to 39 N·m (29 ft.lbs.).

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CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts that are too long will damage the clutch surface inside the converter.
19.For gas engines, install all torque converter-to-driveplate bolts (1) by hand.
20.Verify that the torque converter is pulled flush to the driveplate. Tighten bolts to 42 N·m (31 ft. lbs.).

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CAUTION: It is essential that correct length bolts be used to attach the converter to the driveplate. Bolts that are too long will damage the clutch surface inside the converter.
21.For diesel engines, install all torque converter-to-driveplate bolts (1) by hand.
22.Verify that the torque converter is pulled flush to the driveplate. Tighten bolts to 42 N·m (31 ft. lbs.).

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23.Install the torque converter bolt access cover (1) onto the transmission. Install the access cover bolt (2) and tighten to 11 N·m (8 ft.lbs.).

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NOTE: The starters are located on the right side of the transmission for RWD vehicles and they are on the left side for AWD vehicles.
24.Install starter motor (1

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25.Connect the gearshift cable (1) to the transmission manual shift lever (3).

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26.Check O-rings on plug connector (1), and replace if necessary.
27.Install the plug connector (1) into the adapter plug (2). Turn bayonet lock of the adapter plug (2) clockwise to connect plug connector (1).

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28.Position the heat shield (2), if equipped, onto the transmission housing and install the screw (1) and bolt (3) to hold the shield in place.

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29.Connect the cooler line fittings (2) and cooler lines (1) to the transmission.

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30.For AWD vehicles, install the transfer case,
.31.For RWD vehicles: a.Align and connect the propeller shaft (1).
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32.Install rear support (3) to transmission. Tighten bolts to 47 N·m (35 ft.lbs.)
33.Install rear transmission crossmember (1). Tighten crossmember to frame bolts to 68 N·m (50 ft.lbs.).
34.Lower transmission onto crossmember and install bolts attaching transmission mount to crossmember. Tighten clevis bracket to crossmember bolts (2) to 47 N·m (35 ft.lbs.).
35.Install exhaust components.
36.Install any necessary splash shields.
37.Adjust gearshift cable if necessary.
38.Lower vehicle.
39.Connect negative battery cable.
40.Fill the transmission with the appropriate transmission fluid (Refer to 04 - Vehicle Quick Reference/Capacities and Recommended Fluids - Description) according to the standard procedure (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/FLUID and FILTER - Standard Procedure) .
NOTE: If the transmission is being reconditioned (clutch/seal replacement) or replaced, it is necessary to perform the TCM Adaptation Procedure using the scan tool (Refer to 08 - Electrical/Electronic Control Modules/MODULE, Transmission Control - Standard Procedure) .
41.Verify proper operation.

FLUID/FILTER SERVICE

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Fluid/Filter Service Points

1 - OIL FILTER
2 - OIL PAN GASKET
3 - OIL PAN
4 - RETAINER
5 - BOLT
1.Run the engine until the transmission oil reaches operating temperature.
2.Raise and support vehicle.
3.Remove the bolts (5) and retainers (4) holding the oil pan to the transmission.
4.Remove the transmission oil pan (3) and gasket (2) from the transmission.
5.Remove the transmission oil filter (1) and o-ring from the electrohydraulic control unit.
6.Clean the inside of the oil pan (3) of any debris. Inspect the oil pan gasket (2) and replace if necessary.
7.Install a new oil filter (1) and o-ring into the electrohydraulic control unit.
8.Install the oil pan (3) and gasket (2) onto the transmission.
9.Install the oil pan bolts (5) and retainers (4). Torque the bolts to 8 N·m (70 in.lbs.).
10.Lower the vehicle and add 5.0 L (10.6 pts.) of transmission fluid to the transmission.
11.Check the oil level (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/FLUID and FILTER - Standard Procedure) .

TRANSMISSION FILL

To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1.Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.
2.Remove the dipstick tube cap.
3.Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission: a.If only fluid and filter were changed, add 5.0 L (10.6pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.b.If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 7.7 L (16.3 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.
4.Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/FLUID and FILTER - Standard Procedure) and adjust as required.

TRANSMISSION FILL

To avoid overfilling transmission after a fluid change or overhaul, perform the following procedure:
1.Verify that the vehicle is parked on a level surface.2.Remove the dipstick tube cap.3.Add following initial quantity of Mopar® ATF +4, Automatic Transmission Fluid, to the transmission: a.If only fluid and filter were changed, add 5.0 L (10.6pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.b.If the transmission was completely overhauled or the torque converter was replaced or drained, add 7.7 L (16.3 pts.) of transmission fluid to transmission.4.Check the transmission fluid (Refer to 21 - Transmission and Transfer Case/Automatic - NAG1/FLUID and FILTER - Standard Procedure) and adjust as required.
 
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#3 ·
LOL wish I had the bread for a built tranny I put a fairly new stocker back in, goodluck with the SHR, how it driving??
 
#8 · (Edited)
This information is great. I just don't have a membership to that dealers connect to read what those links show. 30mm cold from tip of dipstick going all the way until it stops to 70mm from the tip when hot? That's about what I know from what I have read over the last couple years. I'm using the dipstick from my 11 Charger RT to check my 06 Charger SXT transmission fluid level while changing the fluid. I had the shudder problem with just over 300,000 miles on the 06 SXT. I did get a lot of grey out of the bottom of the pan the first and second time of draining it. Second not so bad. The dipstick for my 11 RT is longer than the one for the SXT, so it does go in until it stops, then I can measure how full it is. When cold, just sitting, it was in the full hot zone, but when I start it and run it through the gears, it only measured 10mm. Which on the 11 transmission dipstick is safe for cold. Exact same spot my 11 RT measures on it's dipstick. But it's the proper length dipstick for that car.
Thank you,
Mark
 
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