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Want to get "skinny" & loose 50 to 65#s were it matters most?

105K views 136 replies 52 participants last post by  tntmachine 
#1 · (Edited)
Here's how!

1st go to your friendly local Dodge dealer & purchase 2 LX V6 spare wheels.



Or if you are in a large city W/lots of "boneyards", find some there & save some $$$$.

Next, get a set of 4.5/26.0-17 D.O.T. M&H "Frontrunners"

www.mandhtires.com




**FRONT RUNNERS-TREADED**
Tread Width: 4.5"
Section Width: 6.0"
Diameter: 26.0"
Circumference: 81.2"
Rim Size: 4.0"
Code: MSS-17
**D.O.T. Certified**
**(NOTE) TIRES ARE ONLY SOLD AS PAIRS. YOU MUST PUT AT LEAST 2 IN THE QUANTITY BOX.** Buy Now! Price: $141.00

Finally get a set of these wheel adptors in 1.3" thick W/the upgrade for 14mm X 1.5 studs

www.adaptitusa.com

5 X 115 to 5 X 115 Wheel Adapter 5115511510 ADAPTER LUG NUTS INCLUDED
FREE SHIPPING (USA ONLY)
PRICE IS EACH

Sale Price Qty $44.75

EDIT: Get these adaptors, http://adaptitusa.com/5x115to5x115dodgemagnumsrtspareadapter.aspx they already have the 14mmX 1.5 OEM style studs installed.

Here are the results!



This combo will clear the R/T front calipers.

EDIT: These will clear the front Brembos on the SRT.
 
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#101 ·
I'm glad someone else bumped this prior to me having too :mrgreen:

Did i understand that 18' spares will work fine with no spacers on the aftermarket m and h tires but it just has a little more rolling resistance then the 17's? so not the best but a good option for those of us pinching pennies?

shame on those people using mustang parts to make their dodge faster :blam: We dont need the svt forum getting ahold of that info .
j/k
 
#105 ·
Great post... Just what i was looking for
 
#106 ·
#107 ·
A couple things to keep in mind is the adapter has to be at least 1.25" thick to use on the srt front with brembos, and if your using the spare rim you need 14mm nuts and 14mm studs.
Or, you need 14mm nuts and 12mm studs with ford style front rims and you have to buy 12mm lug nuts. This is the route I had to go with my front track wheels.
 
#111 ·
There shouldn't be enough difference in the weight to matter.

W/the 18" combo on an R/T you will eliminate the spacer, but the tire will weigh a bit more.

Only thing to remember is that you can run drag radials or slicks W/the 17" bias ply on the front, but the 18" tire is a radial & it's not recommeneded to run radials in the front W/bias ply slicks in the back.
 
#113 · (Edited)
I have an 06 300c SRT8 and I think that whats listed in the first post should be exactly what I'm looking for, correct? I'm running the Hoosier DRs 275/40/17 on the rear. Also, when you secure the wheel spacer to the stock hub do you use the stock lug nuts and then you use the lug nuts that come with the wheel spacer to secure the wheel to the spacer. Does that make sense?
How much could one expect to shave off their ET with this setup? Maybe a tenth or so.

Thanks,
Bruce
 
#116 ·
I have an 06 300c SRT8 and I think that whats listed in the first post should be exactly what I'm looking for, correct? I'm running the Hoosier DRs 275/40/17 on the rear. Also, when you secure the wheel spacer to the stock hub do you use the stock lug nuts and then you use the lug nuts that come with the wheel spacer to secure the wheel to the spacer. Does that make sense?
How much could one expect to shave off their ET with this setup? Maybe a tenth or so.

Thanks,
Bruce
You need to tighten the spacer using the lug nuts provided in the kit because they need to be able to fully seat themselves inside the width of the spacer. If you did it the other way around your stock lugs would stick out and the face of the spacer your wheel would not mount up flush against it. Hope that helps.
When you look @ the lug nuts that come W/the adaptors (they are NOT spacers) you will see that they are entirely different than regualr lug nuts. Do as s falconma posted.
As far as ET reduction?

@ least .1 maybe .2 as not only will you save 60# or more of static weight, you will reduce the wind resistance from the wide OEM wheel/tire, reduce rotational mass as well as rolling resistance.

I suggest that you inflate the tire to @ least 50# despite the 35# recommendation on the sidewall.
 
#114 ·
You need to tighten the spacer using the lug nuts provided in the kit because they need to be able to fully seat themselves inside the width of the spacer. If you did it the other way around your stock lugs would stick out and the face of the spacer your wheel would not mount up flush against it. Hope that helps.
 
#115 ·
You need to tighten the spacer using the lug nuts provided in the kit because they need to be able to fully seat themselves inside the width of the spacer. If you did it the other way around your stock lugs would stick out and the face of the spacer your wheel would not mount up flush against it. Hope that helps.
Yep, that makes sense. Wasn't sure that the stock lugs would fit the studs on the wheel spacer.

Thanks
Bruce
 
#121 ·
an rt friend want to buy my spare from me to complete the his set up but was wondering if he could run the tires that come with the spares. would this work or does it spell disaster?
 
#123 ·
Ok. Thanks
 
#126 ·
You can't get the bias ply Frontrunners in 18", 17" is the only size available that will fit the spare wheels. You can get 18" radials to fit the 18" spare wheel but they will weigh more than the Frontrunners.

It's a toss-up, added weight of the adaptor for the 17" wheel (center) or heavier tire/wheel for the 18" combo.(perimeter)

Take your pick, but I would prefer the 17" Frontrunner combo. Weight in the center of a rotating mass is easier to get rolling than weight near the perimeter.
 
#131 ·
Just a reminder... mounting the M&H radials on the steel spare wheels will give you (or your favorite tire guy) a workout. Getting the rubber on the wheel is a cinch. Airing them up is the tough part. I just mounted a pair of 18's for my Dad today, and I recycled most of the vocabulary I created the first time I did a set of these.:banghead:
 
#133 ·
While I've yet to hear of someone having a problem, there is also a rotation direction on them, according to M&H. (Yes, I know, they're not marked as such.)
Jon was mounting them up for my car, I purchased them and yes, they were marked with rotation arrows if I recall correctly.
 
#134 ·
I tell you this thread has been helpful to a lot of members. I used it for the idea on my set up and it worked flawlessly! Jon I didn't have to many problems when I mounted the front runners I bought from you. I do have access to a tire mounting machine though.
 
#136 ·
Great stuff,,,,,thanks for the info and a B I G. B U M P for 2013
 
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