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Want to get "skinny" & loose 50 to 65#s were it matters most?

105K views 136 replies 52 participants last post by  tntmachine 
#1 · (Edited)
Here's how!

1st go to your friendly local Dodge dealer & purchase 2 LX V6 spare wheels.



Or if you are in a large city W/lots of "boneyards", find some there & save some $$$$.

Next, get a set of 4.5/26.0-17 D.O.T. M&H "Frontrunners"

www.mandhtires.com




**FRONT RUNNERS-TREADED**
Tread Width: 4.5"
Section Width: 6.0"
Diameter: 26.0"
Circumference: 81.2"
Rim Size: 4.0"
Code: MSS-17
**D.O.T. Certified**
**(NOTE) TIRES ARE ONLY SOLD AS PAIRS. YOU MUST PUT AT LEAST 2 IN THE QUANTITY BOX.** Buy Now! Price: $141.00

Finally get a set of these wheel adptors in 1.3" thick W/the upgrade for 14mm X 1.5 studs

www.adaptitusa.com

5 X 115 to 5 X 115 Wheel Adapter 5115511510 ADAPTER LUG NUTS INCLUDED
FREE SHIPPING (USA ONLY)
PRICE IS EACH

Sale Price Qty $44.75

EDIT: Get these adaptors, http://adaptitusa.com/5x115to5x115dodgemagnumsrtspareadapter.aspx they already have the 14mmX 1.5 OEM style studs installed.

Here are the results!



This combo will clear the R/T front calipers.

EDIT: These will clear the front Brembos on the SRT.
 
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#57 ·
#61 ·
what a crappy pic. you need a better camera man. :tinfoilhat:

you got a sick wheel/tire setup. obviously a winning combo from the way your car runs.
 
#64 ·
SRT8 guys help me out here. Are you running the 17" spare or the 18" spare to clear the brakes?
 
#65 ·
SRT8 guys help me out here. Are you running the 17" spare or the 18" spare to clear the brakes?
Either way you will need an adaptor.

W/a 1.3" adaptor, either 17" or 18" will clear.

You can get a bias ply 4.50 X 17" X 26" M&H "Frontrunner" in 17".

In 18" you will have to go to the 185 X 18 M&H drag radial.

Either will work as long as you run drag radials in the rear. If you run bias ply "slicks" you will not want a drag radial up front.
 
#66 ·
I have a question about the 17" can you flip them backwards and not have to use the spacers? Prob a dumb question but I was just courious.
 
#68 ·
how will those front runners be with a true slick in the rear end I remember trojan bringing that up in a thread once
 
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#72 ·
Just ordered this setup yesterday. The prices have changed a bit, but not terribly.

The M&H tires are on backorder due to an ordering snafu on their end, but in my case it's fine, since it's 110° out there these days. Not much racing going on. Just getting ready for November

Thanks, Dan, for the info bud.
 
#79 ·
What's the width of the steel spares you guys are buyin?
 
#80 ·
They are 4 " wide @ the bead. They are the perfect width for the 4.50 X 26 X 17 M&H Front Runners.
 
#82 ·
No I didn't.

I have to check the air pressure when the tires have been stored for any extended length of time & put some air in them.

Over the winter they might get down to 15-20#.

Over a week/weekend they do not loose any appreciable amount.

Even though they leak down (very) slowly, I feel more comfortable knowing that, if I run over a screw or other sharp object during a pass, they will leak down slowly whereas a tube will usually go flat a lot quicker.

I learned about how fast a tube type tire will go flat back in my motorcycle riding days. Even from 65 MPH, it's sometimes hard to get slowed down before a tube type tire goes completely flat.
 
#87 ·
Ran these skinnies for the first time today. I ran them at 35 PSI since that's the max PSI indicated on the tire sidewall. What PSI is everyone else running?

Also, has anyone figured out a good way to torque down/remove the nuts from the spacer? Short of having someone sit in the car and step on the brakes for me, it was very difficult to torque the spacer down since the rotor would keep on turning. Same deal with removing them, very difficult. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm also going to need a real low profile jack b/c mine will not fit under the car with these smaller tires.
 
#92 ·
Ran these skinnies for the first time today. I ran them at 35 PSI since that's the max PSI indicated on the tire sidewall. What PSI is everyone else running?

Also, has anyone figured out a good way to torque down/remove the nuts from the spacer? Short of having someone sit in the car and step on the brakes for me, it was very difficult to torque the spacer down since the rotor would keep on turning. Same deal with removing them, very difficult. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. I'm also going to need a real low profile jack b/c mine will not fit under the car with these smaller tires.
I run mine at 45-50psi. I've read someone say they do 70 psi but that seems crazy.

I stick a screwdriver in the rotor and it rests against the caliper as I tighten/loosen nuts.
 
#90 ·
I bring a couple of 2X6's with me. I put the front tires on the 2X6's to help raise the front end to get the jack underneath. I usually don't have a problem the the 20's are on the front but I've had a hard time get the jack back out when the skinnies go on. I even have a low profile jack.

I know some guys have put a breaker bar in between the studs while torqueing down the lugs. I run 55psi in mine. I know it a little high, but with 35psi it seems like the tire sits way too low.
 
#91 ·
Wow, you guys are awesome. I'll try out the breaker bar idea for sure. Still gonna grab a low-pro jack and some wood to stick under the tires. The skinnies did look a little flat at 35 PSI once they're on the car. I dont know about going up to 55 like robsrt, but I will raise it up some, maybe to 45. That should the front not sit as low too.
 
#95 ·
I run 40 lbs and use a breaker bar between the studs and resting on the ground to stop the hub from turning.

I change both front and back off the one jack point. I lift enough to do the back, then lift more to do the front.



 
#97 ·
I placec a piece of 2X6 (about 8" long) under the floor pan just inside the rocker panel & lift just below the front door handle. That pretty well balances thje car out
 
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