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Mopar Super Track Pack Performance Suspension

18K views 29 replies 12 participants last post by  snobrdrdan 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

Figured I'd share my experience with this kit. It is sold directly by Mopar (and most online or brick and mortar dealers are able to order it) and it is the Bilstein shocks with Mopar lowering springs. The kit comes with 95% of the items you need, with the only thing being reused is the front shock mounts and dust boot. I ordered these new just so every piece going in was a 0-mile item.

The Kit:

2016 DODGE CHARGER Mopar Performance Suspension Upgrade Packages P5155435AD - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

The whole thing goes for the low $600s, but Summit can price match you with an online Mopar dealer. I had them price match East Coast Moparts as they had it for $513. They also offered free shipping, which was a plus. This kit should fit any 2006 and up Dodge Charger/Challenger/300 in V6 and R/T trims, but please note that earlier models may need some adjusting or work for proper fitment and drop height. The drop height is slightly more on the V6 models over the stock R/T height. My 2016 R/T went down just over 1" all around over stock.

If you need the part numbers for the boot and upper mounts, please let me know. I have them in my email.

Installation:

The cost of installing can vary widely. It is about a 2 to 3 hours job, so a dealer may charge upwards of $400 to do this. I had a local shop do the whole thing for $200 wheels up to wheels down. It was another $50 to have the car aligned.

While I won't dive into the installation process too much, it's all pretty straight forward. The rear involves removing the 2 bolts at the top of the strut as well as one on the bottom connecting to the control arm. It can then be pushed down and slid out. For the rear springs, the instructions state to drop the rear cradle. However, we simply removed the bolt connecting the control arm to the cradle and dropped it enough to get the spring out. Then, it was just going back in the steps and tightening it all up.

For the front, you remove the 3 bolts on the shock mount (under the hood) and one on the bottom of the shock connecting to the control arm. If you're lucky, you can wiggle the assembly out and the new one in. In most cases, however, you will have to unbolt the upper control arm and separate it in order to drop the suspension low enough to get the assembly out. Other than that, reverse the steps and tighten everything to spec.

Once the suspension settled, the alignment wasn't all that far off. I had purchased a pair of SPC adjustable upper control arms (for the front) in case the steering was off wack. However, these will be going back to Summit as the front was just marginally off from what it originally was. It took 2 minutes for my alignment guy to get the front and rear back to spec. Please note that the rear of my car already had SPC bushings for adjusting camber, so the rear may or may not be good to go and you may or may not need those bushings to get it where it should be.

Pics:

While I don't have any before pictures, as the excitement of getting it all in got the best of me, I can show you the after. After these pictures were taken, it settled just a bit more, maybe about 1/8" or so from what you see here. The car sits much more flush to the wheels and the wheel gap is pretty much gone. I can no longer see the upper parts of my suspension from just looking at the car from the side.





How It Performs:

It is a night and day difference over the stock "Sport" R/T suspension. I'd imagine that this would be an even bigger change for V6 suspension. The car has lost tons of body roll, on the corners it remains flat, and the steering feels more responsive. There is a tight S turn here in my area that I used to take at about 60MPH with some light tire squeal and I was able to take it at 74MPH after the new suspension with no tire noise and without pushing the car too hard. Also, launching it from a dig feels more planted, the rear seems to stick more, and it doesn't feel as squiggly as it did before.

On the highway, it is smooth as butter. While you do feel bumps and road damage a bit more, it is a marginal difference and I feel I like the quick bump over road imperfections over the bump and subsequent wobble and bounce my old suspension had. At higher speeds, the car feels planted and stable and switching lanes abruptly it's flat and precise. Previously, any sudden lane changes came with tons of body roll and the feeling of being unstable.

All in all, for well under $1,000 installed and aligned, I'd say it's well-worth it. While I know that coilovers would net better performance, I didn't want to meddle with adjusting things and any alignment issues I may face. These feel more forgiving in city driving and I'm not worried about bottoming out the car in any driveways or rough roads, even with my long tube headers.

Feel free to ask any questions. I'll answer them as best I can!
 
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#2 ·
I wanted to revisit this....have you had any issues with your long tube headers? I installed the similar kit on my ‘14 RT (B12 Bilstein Kit, basically the same thing...same shocks with Eibach Pro springs, same drop). I was thinking of dropping the long tubes on, but was super afraid of scraping those things up.


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#11 ·
I wanted to revisit this....have you had any issues with your long tube headers? I installed the similar kit on my '14 RT (B12 Bilstein Kit, basically the same thing...same shocks with Eibach Pro springs, same drop). I was thinking of dropping the long tubes on, but was super afraid of scraping those things up.

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The car sits surprisingly higher than it looks. I don't scrape on driveways or over speed bumps. I've also hit a fairly nasty pothole or two and had no issues. My long tubes are, at their lowest, right where the engine cradle bottoms out. So even if the car dropped low enough to scrape, the engine cradle/belly pan would or SHOULD take the hit first. But again, I've yet to encounter any issues where the car has even been close to bottoming out or scraping anything.
 
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#3 ·
This is on my list for early next year. I hate the wheel gap on my RT. It rides smooth but a lot of body roll. It feels like the boat it is.
Question, what parts are needed for the camber adjustments? F & R?

Thanks
 
#12 ·
If you want to be dialed in 100% then you're looking at new front adjustable upper control arms and new adjustable rear upper control arms. IIRC, the front uppers were like $298 and the rear upper were another $175. However, as I sit right now, I'm pretty good. It's been months now and the car has certainly settled and my alignment guy said that while I'm not spot on with camber, it's so minimal I won't notice a difference and tire wear would be low. I'm gonna spring for the adjustable stuff come April though because I do want to take the car on a road course and push it.
 
#5 ·
I just placed an order for this kit through Summit - they price matched a deal I found online for $487.

neuroticdave - can you send me the part numbers you used for the mount and boot? I want to assemble the fronts before ripping apart the car, and would rather spend the extra few dollars for new parts.

Thanks!
 
#13 ·
That install rate was because the mechanic is a long-time friend of mine. He did the install in about 2 hours. It would've been less but the rear springs gave us a hard time. An alignment was $80 more (including a $30 tip). But on average I'd say it's $275-375 to install. Not all that hard to do.
 
#8 ·
$400 seems pretty high without alignment. Shop here charges around $300 plus alignment. It really isn’t too difficult to do yourself if you have the right tools/equipment and are knowledgeable when it come to safely compressing springs. Keyword being safely.

Side note - I received this kit in the mail yesterday. It looks like they included 2 sets of bump stops - one shorter set and one longer. Initially I thought one set was for the rears, but then I noticed the rear bellows have the bump stops built in already. Once I have some time to assemble them I should be able to see which ones I should use.
 
#9 · (Edited)
It's installed, & yeah it's a good mod to do. Same observations as OP. Stock height measured just over 17 front & just under 18 rear. Now it's 16.25 front & 16.5 rear. For alignment..I get there's no factory adjustment, but if the car is out of spec then I would need to buy the adjustable aftermarket parts to bring it back to spec? Is that right? I did not get an alignment yet or even check it because I'm getting tires in January. Current tires I don't care if they get chewed up.(they suck)
UPDATE: Alignment check..left caster is out by .7 right is out by 1,Camber: left is at max of -1.5. Right is just out at -1.6. I'm looking at some minor inner tire wear.

 
#10 ·
Hey everyone,

Sorry for the lack of responses. I'm not getting notifications that there were replies or that I had PMs. That said, here are the only two other parts I needed to complete the install:

MOPAR4895452AA (04895452AA)Coil Spring Seat / Insulator$ 23.79$ 0.002$ 47.58
MOPAR4895422AA (04895422AA)Coil Spring Seat / Insulator$ 13.76$ 0.002$ 27.52

The rear comes with the boot, the front I swapped over from my old suspension. If your car is low mileage and the boot is in good condition then you'll save yourself a few bucks.
 
#14 · (Edited)
WEll because of Dave and JTSRT8, i hopped on the Mopar STPS kit as well. i dont have any before pics, honestly becuase it was in a rush to get it done BEFORE the snow as i had a 1.5 hour drive back home during snowfall. i can honestly say the difference is PURELY AMAZING. the "sport" suspension that is used as stock.....this is what SHOULD be considered as "SPORT". especially with my car being the R/T with Road and Track. i mean the diff is upgraded to 3.07, and then you just leave the regular R/T suspension in there. leaves a lot to be desired when you have a button called "Super Track Pack" and all it does it access the performance pages and sport adjustments... which are awesome as well by the way. but this would have been, the bees knees to the whole package in my view. Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tire Rim Automotive design


one cool part i noticed dodge has done... maybe for the 15's and up, is they have air ducts that flow from the bumper to the brake ducts area. the old 2007's didnt have this, but it was standard on the Camaro SS's and upgradeable on the LT models (which i never got around to doing). small side note, cause i remember matt robertson talking about brake ducting on track cars back in the day. Automotive tire Stairs Automotive exterior Motor vehicle Wood


Also almost a week later, maybe 1 day shy, i added the Petty's Garage swaybar set. turns out the rear sways on the Road & track models are already 22mm... however, they feel kinda light. so it may be a 22mm hollow bar. i can say the petty's offerings were stout and had some weight to em. So they are def an upgrade by far. currently have em set on soft as instructions state. but once i upgrade the links to something a bit more stout, i'll move em to middle, and adjust front and rear from there.

I have quite a few more pics, but the site isn't letting me link em to my website to be shown on page, and it only let me do 2 pics attached... will try and figure something out by the weekend.

btw, are the different forums still at each other necks about linking to other forums???
 
#15 ·
one cool part i noticed dodge has done... maybe for the 15's and up, is they have air ducts that flow from the bumper to the brake ducts area. the old 2007's didnt have this, but it was standard on the Camaro SS's and upgradeable on the LT models (which i never got around to doing). small side note, cause i remember matt robertson talking about brake ducting on track cars back in the day. View attachment 67062
The SRT's did


The R/T's not so much, just some shallow channels lol

 
#16 ·
At speed, that's more than adequate for light track work and autox.

I see the SRT has the main single duct, but the RT's have two directed at the same location.

Back in 2007 on my charger, i had to run naca duct hose from the front of the Grip bumper i had installed and rig up a plate to the back of the knuckle.

This is def a step forward regardless of the model differences given the way air flows at speed.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Just received my kit and will be installing come spring time.

To make the fronts a complete strut assembly (ready to drop in), without scavenging parts from or disassembling your OEM front struts....you need:
1. The strut mount (x2) -- 5181575AA
2. The dust boot (x2) -- 4782629AA
3. The upper insulator (x2) -- 4895452AA
4. The strut top nut (x2) -- 6512602AA

I ordered all my parts from Genuine Factory OEM Auto Parts and Accessories - BamWholesaleParts.com | BAM
Link to the parts: https://www.bamwholesaleparts.com/v...8-gas/front-suspension--struts-and-components
 
#20 ·
Hi All,
After reading some of these threads it started me thinking about a few things......I bought a 2018 RT with a Super Track package and was wondering why aren't my shocks yellow like some of these kits I'm seeing on sale....

I mean should they be....?
no, the cars with the super track pack do not come with the bilstein suspension. For late 2018 they made a performance suspension option on the charger and challenger that gives the car the bilstein suspension and lowered stance with the addition of 4 pot Brembos.
 
#23 ·
Though it does sit lower. It's not as low as stock scats or SRT's. I think that's just because the geometry is different on them to allow the larger tires & get the camber right with no adjustable pieces.
 
#29 ·
I bought that kit for the '10 R/T Classic I had. It was around $400, plus I bought the front boots and insulators like the OP did, so I could preassemble before tearing into my car. Gave the car a "just right" ride height and really tightened up the handling. It essentially brought the suspension to SRT standard of the day.

The other thing I did at the same time was to install 6.1 exhaust manifolds on the 5.7. Also installed the 6.1 mids / cats and a Corsa Sport cat back. Those mods were the best thing I could do to that car. Sat just right; handled real nice and sounded great (louder, but not too loud) plus it performed better. Went from 13.60 stock, to 13.25 I miss that car. It was a real sweet heart...
 
#30 ·
plus I bought the front boots and insulators like the OP did, so I could preassemble before tearing into my car
Just to reiterate...the kit didn't come with the front strut top nuts or the front strut mounts/top hats.....so you'd need those to pre-assemble the front struts before installing (making it a drop in/bolt on assembly).

If you don't buy those, you'll need to take them from your OEM struts. It was easier to not have to mess around with taking the stock units apart for those parts, IMO
 
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