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  1. #1
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    What's the best way to Flush our cooling system?

    I have an 06 300C SRT8. What's the best way to flush the cooling system? Are there any pitfalls to watch out for, such as a petcock problem like my truck has?



  2. #2
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    Bump to the top. All I got was crickets. I assume I have to take off the protective undercover and there will be a petcock to drain. Is there any burping off the system needed?

  3. #3
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    There are many many posts here about this, the search feature is your friend.

    Also, the Factory Service Manuals we all have the luxury of downloading right here at LX Forums, detail the lengthy / proper process for drain / fill / purge.

    New Service Manual Download Link
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  4. #4
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    Thank you.
    Thanks Hemissary thanked for this post

  5. #5
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    Dang, seems way more complicated than I expected. I'd better get to searching some of those posts to find out about the special part, barbed fitting and such. Why does it have to be difficult!!!

  6. #6
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    Most cheat...

    Few remove the NPT plugs on the sides of the block, but its the only way to properly drain the entire system (plus its messy :^). It pays to inspect where you can "inside the coolant cavities to assess sludge and other debris that might be present (which might generate other cleansing processes). It quickly becomes evident If the wrong antifreeze was used which critical to system integrity and longevity. You need HOAT antifreeze only, this is all about aluminum, steel and cast iron alloys and the inevitable results of electrical conductivity (electrolysis). Use distilled water only, this is really important. Tap water won't cut it as it is electrically conductive due to impurities (the electrolysis process loves tap water to cause material transfer between unlike alloys). Distilled water is cheap and non-conductive. Never fill with distilled water only or antifreeze only, always a mix of both.

    The petcock on the bottom of the radiator is a plastic 1/2 turn device. Turn it too much and it will come out (can be reinserted). Don't forget to assess all hoses, including heater lines.

    The only proper way to fill the system, ensuring no trapped air (they never burp them at / from the Factory btw), is to remove the 1/4" NPT HEX located in the upper water jacket on the front timing cover. I sourced a really nice replacement fitting for the (problematic) HEX plug that allows no-tool purging - cold or hot: Cooling System Purge Valve .

    On level ground, if you follow the fill process in the Service Manual, you can drive away without fear of overheating from trapped air...
    Last edited by Hemissary; 12-04-2018 at 11:39 PM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Most cheat...

    Few remove the NPT plugs on the sides of the block, but its the only way to properly drain the entire system (plus its messy :^). It pays to inspect where you can "inside the coolant cavities to assess sludge and other debris that might be present (which might generate other cleansing processes). It quickly becomes evident If the wrong antifreeze was used which critical to system integrity and longevity. You need HOAT antifreeze only, this is all about aluminum, steel and cast iron alloys and the inevitable results of electrical conductivity (electrolysis). Use distilled water only, this is really important. Tap water won't cut it as it is electrically conductive due to impurities (the electrolysis process loves tap water to cause material transfer between unlike alloys). Distilled water is cheap and non-conductive. Never fill with distilled water only or antifreeze only, always a mix of both.

    The petcock on the bottom of the radiator is a plastic 1/2 turn device. Turn it too much and it will come out (can be reinserted). Don't forget to assess all hoses, including heater lines.

    The only proper way to fill the system, ensuring no trapped air (they never burp them at / from the Factory btw), is to remove the 1/4" NPT HEX located in the upper water jacket on the front timing cover. I sourced a really nice replacement fitting for the (problematic) HEX plug that allows no-tool purging - cold or hot: Cooling System Purge Valve .

    On level ground, if you follow the fill process in the Service Manual, you can drive away without fear of overheating from trapped air...
    I have already bought the hoat anti freeze and distilled water as my truck uses it and I flushed it several times to clear as much of the old (and apparently wrong type) anti freeze as I could. I presume when you say never use distilled water only, you are meaning after the final flush, not when just flushing, right? Unfortunately, on my truck, guys warned of problems with the petcock and sure enough, mine now wants to have a verrrrrry slow drip it looks like.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by albow View Post
    I have already bought the hoat anti freeze and distilled water as my truck uses it and I flushed it several times to clear as much of the old (and apparently wrong type) anti freeze as I could. I presume when you say never use distilled water only, you are meaning after the final flush, not when just flushing, right? Unfortunately, on my truck, guys warned of problems with the petcock and sure enough, mine now wants to have a verrrrrry slow drip it looks like.
    If the cooling system is really bad, you can try using tap water repeatedly to dislodge material, but don't have great expectations. The idea of a critical inspection is to determine what volume of unwanted material is present - as far as the eye can see (a boroscope is really valuable here). The critical areas that are difficult to see are around the combustion chambers where unwanted material welds itself due to heat. hard to dislodge with ordinary water and no serious pressure behind it.

    Yes - don't run water only. Lots of reasons for this, the key one is that water-only has significantly less thermal conductivity (less efficient at removing heat) than a water / antifreeze mix.

  9. #9
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    So, I'm still not quite getting it. Are you saying it's not okay to use straight distilled water when flushing the system? I ran 2 or 3 cycles of it through my truck yesterday, flushing with distilled water each timeuntil clear enough, then readding antifreeze. I bought 40 gallons of it. They looked at me like I was crazy at Wal Mart. Dang buggy got hard to steer and push too, understeering really bad!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by albow View Post
    So, I'm still not quite getting it. Are you saying it's not okay to use straight distilled water when flushing the system? I ran 2 or 3 cycles of it through my truck yesterday, flushing with distilled water each timeuntil clear enough, then readding antifreeze. I bought 40 gallons of it. They looked at me like I was crazy at Wal Mart. Dang buggy got hard to steer and push too, understeering really bad!
    LoL...

    It is OK; the fact you used distilled water instead of tap water - good job :^)

  11. #11
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    I just read your thread with that swagelok valve you posted. Using that, provided I can get the original npt out, it sounds like that tube drain setup and pinch pliers or whatever it said in the manual is not needed, right? My plans are to drain, fill with distilled water, drive until the thermostat opens a few minutes and repeat the whole process until the water is clear enough, then add anti freeze and water.
    Last edited by albow; 12-05-2018 at 01:11 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by albow View Post
    I just read your thread with that swagelok valve you posted. Using that, provided I can get the original npt out, it sounds like that tube drain setup and pinch pliers or whatever it said in the manual is not needed, right? My plans are to drain, fill with distilled water, drive until the thermostat opens a few minutes and repeat the whole process until the water is clear enough, then add anti freeze and water.
    Lack of care / spilling antifreeze or oil for that matter is no longer acceptable, period. Especially if there are pets around (ingesting the sweet-tasting antifreeze = death).

    The tube / fitting for overflow can be addressed simply with an absorbent cloth that is properly disposed of afterwards. The Swagelok could also be installed after you've completed filling and purging the cooling system of air for the last time.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 12-05-2018 at 08:51 PM.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    Lack of care / spilling antifreeze or oil for that matter is no longer acceptable, period. Especially if there are pets around (ingested antifreeze = death).

    The tube / fitting for overflow can be addressed simply with an absorbent cloth that is properly disposed of afterwards. The Swagelok could also be installed after you've completed filling and purging the cooling system of air for the last time.
    Oh, I agree. I had to be careful with the truck yesterday. Sounds like I just put a rag or shop towel under the swagelok to catch the dribble instead of needing the hose. Thanks for all the help.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by albow View Post
    I just read your thread with that swagelok valve you posted. Using that, provided I can get the original npt out, it sounds like that tube drain setup and pinch pliers or whatever it said in the manual is not needed, right? My plans are to drain, fill with distilled water, drive until the thermostat opens a few minutes and repeat the whole process until the water is clear enough, then add anti freeze and water.
    Do you plan to drain the block. Usually, draining the radiator only gets part of the coolant out. Something to consider when you make sure you have a 50/50 mix.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2005rtmag View Post
    Do you plan to drain the block. Usually, draining the radiator only gets part of the coolant out. Something to consider when you make sure you have a 50/50 mix.
    Unless draining the block isn't too difficult (and if I understand right, it has some of those highly strippable NPT plugs to remove) I will but it sounds like not. THerefore, my plan is to drain, refill with water, drive until the tstat opens and repeat until clear. Also I have pure anti freeze, not 50/50.

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