Results 1 to 13 of 13
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    174
    Post Thanks / Like

    Miles after break-in for first oil change

    SO! At long last, my Magnum seems like it is ready to rock. I installed a torqstorm supercharger along with many many upgrades and changes, and the heads dropped a valve seat.. and the engine blew up. The head builders covered it all under warranty, then a hidden chunk of valve seat from the first detonation had lodged into the intake manifold (which I took off before shipping to the engine builders) freed itself and blew up my engine again. The same valve seat blew up my engine twice, yes. SO I rebuilt it a third time! Like that Monty Python castle in the swamp, this time it is running excellent with no issues besides a loose coolant hose and fuel pump hose. How many miles should a nice 05 hemi under boost need to break in? Its made it about 200 miles with Dino oil with a little extra break in zinc. Looking forward to getting my road tune done 2 years after I purchase it lol
    Like my fan page!
    http://www.facebook.com/crazymikemucitelli
    Professional MMA Fighter

    2005 Dodge Magnum R/T - Torqstorm supercharged and intercooled, srt-4 stage 1 injectors, MDS delete, Port matched heads, BBK long tube headers, 85mm Arrington TB, HHP 180 Tstat, AFE Ported 85mm TB spacer, PnP Intake Manifold, Magnaflow high-flow catted mids, custom 2.5in Exhaust, Jones Full Boar SS mufflers, ST Coilovers, 20" Hellcat Bronze rims, Diablotoona Custom Tune, DUI S.O.S. coilpacks, Thundervolt shorty wires, EGR delete, Speedlogix Catch Can, and lots more..



  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2017
    Posts
    804
    Post Thanks / Like
    Typically the standard is 500-1k miles and depends on what the builder says/recommends. 500 is probably just fine but 1k is the safer option.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Called the builder and he said that since it's a roller cam engine after 100-200 miles of break in with varied mild to medium/hard (no WOT) driving with a few blips, change the oil and good to go.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
    Posts
    1,280
    Post Thanks / Like
    Boom! Hurry up and post some vids!!!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Can't figure out video yet, but here's a picture. It's snug in there! Needs an I'm Bay detail badly and the drivers side strut mount got all scratched, but it's definitely alive!

    Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,494
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by crazymikemma View Post
    Called the builder and he said that since it's a roller cam engine after 100-200 miles of break in with varied mild to medium/hard (no WOT) driving with a few blips, change the oil and good to go.
    I'm curious; is your builder mentioned anything about ring seating? What was the oil type recommendation for first start / drive?
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by Hemissary View Post
    I'm curious; is your builder mentioned anything about ring seating? What was the oil type recommendation for first start / drive?
    He just said Dino oil for the first 100 or so and like I said mix it up, light then sprinkle in some medium throttle runs. No extended idling. Just put in synthetic and oil pressure is right on the money. (Installed a-pillar oil gauge). 30ish at idle and 50ish at cruise.

    Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,494
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by crazymikemma View Post
    He just said Dino oil for the first 100 or so and like I said mix it up, light then sprinkle in some medium throttle runs. No extended idling. Just put in synthetic and oil pressure is right on the money. (Installed a-pillar oil gauge). 30ish at idle and 50ish at cruise.

    Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk
    Good. Don't be too gentle...you want any issues to present themselves earlier rather than later. Much more importantly, you really want those rings to seat as quickly as possible. Babying it has absolutely the opposite effect. Real loading / cycling accelerates the mating / marrying procedure. If all else is well (bearing interface clearances), ring seating is the paramount issue. I'd like to say "especially" with boost applications, but that would be misleading. Every new ring / wall application is extremely important to get as close as possible to reaching the potential (keyword) cylinder pressure directly(!0 related to ring /wall integrity.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 04-17-2019 at 09:43 PM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Don't worry, we gave it healthy revs after getting temp up to speed on first fire and during the first 200 miles there plenty of spirited (but not quite WOT) pushes.

    Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Bedford, Texas
    Posts
    3,316
    Post Thanks / Like
    Someone needs to make your first post a sticky. I can't say it enough that if a valve drops, the intake needs to be replaced. Nobody listens.

    Someone just posted a valve drop and they "rinsed the intake out with water" and reused it. It does not make sense to me.

    Glad you're rolling again!

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Syracuse, NY
    Posts
    174
    Post Thanks / Like
    Quote Originally Posted by punisher69 View Post
    Someone needs to make your first post a sticky. I can't say it enough that if a valve drops, the intake needs to be replaced. Nobody listens.

    Someone just posted a valve drop and they "rinsed the intake out with water" and reused it. It does not make sense to me.

    Glad you're rolling again!

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    I read that too... Lessons learned.

    Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    L.A., Ca.
    Posts
    3,814
    Post Thanks / Like
    With a new motor, I changed the oil after the first 100 on dino oil. Then again after 3000 on syn.
    I've sent my oil in for analysis and still change at 5000, even though the numbers look good.
    Adaptive Craving Control-by Hal9000 modification strictly prohibited
    FI IV.5, Solo cat backs, 180 thermo, Catch Can, DS tuner, 383 Stroker/SRT heads,headers and mids,, Tranny cooler with fan control, built tranny/flex plate/4K conv,09 Chally rear with Quaife posi. Pedders Track II, coil overs, Hodgkiss sways, BWoody links, 20" Jacks N Five with Nitto Invo's, Custom brakes by TCE. Bling by BT.
    Just a grocery getter!

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Calgary, Alberta
    Posts
    13,494
    Post Thanks / Like
    100 miles using conventional engine oil is not long enough for new rings / walls.

    There appears to be a stigma about conventional oil that makes folks uncomfortable about keeping it long enough to do its job. There is oodles of bearing interface surface area such that if one wanted to use it for the service life of their engine...it would perform just fine.

    500 miles, changing the filter only at 100 miles (and cutting it open and examining the contents is extremely important) would be ensuring that (small shop) measurement and topping up, fitting and installation of rings would be just fine...

Tags for this Thread

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •