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Thread: Trans Gone ?

  1. #1
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    Trans Gone ?

    So looking for some help from my LX family. Replaced water pump last week after a slow leak its had since the motor was rebuilt. After a little Challenger/Magnum rivalry it started leaking a little more. I reused the water pump at the time because it was only 100's of miles old at the rebullid time. Live and learn. Today the wife takes the Maggie to work, when shes returning i hear the car coming, so i look out the window and it seems like i can hear a slip to the trans as it goes by. She stops at the end of the block to do a 3 point turn and i can tell by watching that it isnt going into reverse and shes stuck by the curb. I ran down the block, sent her home to the kids and pushed the car home. i can put it in any gear and it doesn't do a thing. Doesn't make weird noises, doesn't jump, surge....nothing. I had a feeling the trans was maybe headed south, just hoping its possible its something small. Any ideas on what it could be besides catastrophic?
    2005 Magnum R/T Bright Silver Metallic,Lower baffle mod,DS Intune,SRT Bilsteins/coils,..Dropped Valve..rebuild...6.1 springs,chain/tensioner,damper,ARP fasteners throughout,Sidewinder cam,Comp Cams pushrods,Tune by Johan,Taylor 8.2 shortys,Speedlogix catch can,BT Batwing and engine bling,BT pink thingy,Scat Pack wheels,245/45/20,RKSPORT Viper ACR hood,full Volant SS cat back,AFE Magnum Force CAI,R1 Concepts black slotted/drilled rotors F/B,ceramic pads,DC Strut tower brace,Bitchin pistol grip shifter
    1970 440 Pro Street Cuda
    1976 340 Pro Street Plymouth Arrow
    2006 Ram 2500 4x4 Cummins



  2. #2
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    And if it is gone, it currently has about 156k on the original, anybody have a used one sitting around with low miles? Or a opinion on where to get one, should i grab a converter also to work with the sidewinder better...thanks everyone. Always at Xmas time....

  3. #3
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    Update, i went outside a few hours later and fired it up. It went into gear like normal, all gears and i drove it around the block. Decided to go a second pass around the block and it went into 2nd, wouldn't leave second and started to make a whining sound as it slowly lost forward momentum. I barely made it back to the house before it stopped moving again. So torque converter? Im hoping its not the trans itself.

  4. #4
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    Change the filter and try again. My trans failed at 108k miles because the filter plugged and wiped out the clutches. The filter that never gets changed has a fine mesh fabric inside it that can and will plug up.

  5. #5
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    When was the last time you checked the transmission fluid level?
    2005 Magnum RT---Viper Venom Red----440ci Aluminum block----Short Runner Valve Intake--410mm BAER 6S Monoblock Extreme--Eibach Multi-Pro 2

    Custom--Grille Work--Hood--Headlights--Side View Mirrors--Rear Spoiler--Rear Diffuser--SRV Control System--Turbine Wheels


  6. #6
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    I had the trans looked at a month or so back, supposedly it looked good. I had about 17k on the trans fluid and filter at that time. I replaced the notorious o ring when i first bought the car a few years back and have never seen a drop from the trans after that. And its never given me any trouble. I had to move it off the street and behind the gate a few minutes ago. It went right into gear and then backed up the driveway, but by the time it was behind the fence it was not wanting to move any further again.

  7. #7
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    Thank you guys very much by the way, i appreciate any input.

  8. #8
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    The transmission shop mechanic that replaced my transmission said that he replaces a lot of our NAG 1s at around 100k miles.

  9. #9
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    I was afraid of that. Well i did find a low mile trans out of a 06 SRT for a good price. Is that a direct bolt in or is there something different between the R/T vs SRT? Its complete with converter and the guy said he would meet me halfway from Los Angeles.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Little Red R/T View Post
    I was afraid of that. Well i did find a low mile trans out of a 06 SRT for a good price. Is that a direct bolt in or is there something different between the R/T vs SRT? Its complete with converter and the guy said he would meet me halfway from Los Angeles.
    The 4-bolt output yoke will require switching to your 3-bolt unit. Regarding buying used, I wrote this the other day in another thread:

    First, if you or someone you know who understands what they are looking at / smelling, sample the existing fluid before you purchase a used transmission. This is really important.

    Then, install it as-is. After first fire-up, do not drive the vehicle until the fluid level has been properly checked. These transmissions are pretty smart as well as extra sensitive to fluid level during operation (overfilling is just as problematic as under-filling). There is only one way to properly check NAG1 / WA580 fluid level; measuring the level against actual fluid temperature real-time (hence why they don't come with a dipstick).

    If the transmission exhibits internal damage, you've not wasted any more money than you have already (hopefully you set the sale up such that it can be returned for a full refund).

    After the transmission proves itself worthy, only then perform a fluid / filter change. Because only a portion of the fluid actually exits the transmission when the pan is dropped, you have a number of options:
    - Sacrifice new fluid by performing two (or more) fluid / filter changes ~100Km apart. Although this still does not remove all the old fluid, it replaces the majority with new.
    - Find a service that disconnects the transmission cooler lines and cycles new fluid into the transmission as the old fluid it removed. This pretty well ensures (Operator diligence is important here) the torque convertor and upper reservoir are also cycled with new fluid.


  11. #11
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    Thanks Hemissary, i'll follow along with that. I totally understand its a gamble buying used. The seller had it bolted up to a 6.1 until that sold last month and the buyer didn't want the trans. But it has sat for a few years in his garage which i guess could be good or bad depending on how you look at it. Im going to drop the pan today and check the filter as a few have recommended. Im sure it's not going to magically work after a new filter and fluid, but im hoping maybe the filter is plugged and maybe i can buy some time. Just so weird that it went that fast. Guess that's the way it goes though.

  12. #12
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    Just to let you know, these things don't just fall apart at 100,000 miles. I have 230,000 on mine and it is just as good as new, no problems. ( I did replace the engine and trans at 230,000 because of a large water ingestion problem with the engine)
    2005 MAGNUM R/T
    JBA headers, Blastin Bobs 9db pipes,, Stack Performance strut brace, Stack performance chubby sway bars ,SRT springs ,Bilstein struts & shocks, Getrag 3.91,, Cams solid rear cradle bushings, Blue Tops, BT Catch Can. Other BT goodies.
    2012 Challenger 392 SRT (Wife)
    Likes Hemissary liked this post

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by m37ral View Post
    Just to let you know, these things don't just fall apart at 100,000 miles. I have 230,000 on mine and it is just as good as new, no problems. ( I did replace the engine and trans at 230,000 because of a large water ingestion problem with the engine)
    Agreed; which IMO makes the OP's problem something other than an outright failure - that is diagnosable by Professionals...and likely correctable.
    Last edited by Hemissary; 11-25-2018 at 07:51 PM.

  14. #14
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    Maybe it's me, but I've noticed that many times "the mechanic/ shop" says they've "Done many of those at 'x' amount of miles". I've had them tell me that myself, when in fact I knew (in my particular instance) that it wasn't true at all.

    Why do they say it? To make you feel better about having to shell out $$$? To make you think they're more experienced/ knowledgeable than they really are?

    I bought a car out of a junk yard for $150 (93 Dodge Shadow ES, 5spd). I was told, "Man these cars don't last, I get tons of them all the time."

    I massaged the upper radiator support back into shape, replaced the hood and grill (which I already had on hand), radiator, fan and a/c condenser and drove the car for 12 years. I actually just sold it last year for a grand.

    I said all that to say this: Not everything "they" say is always truth.

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    Likes Little Red R/T, Hemissary liked this post

  15. #15
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    Agree completely. I usually do everything myself, and overthink it to a fault lol. I'm hoping as Hemissary stated that it is something correctable. To be running great one moment and then just to let go, with the wife driving no less ( never drives it crazy) is a head scratcher. I'll have time tomorrow to pull the pan and see if the filter is clogged. Problem is, if it is clogged it's most likely clogged with clutch material right? Meaning something is not playing well together. The only thing I think is a great possibility would be water intrusion. I noticed a while back that after running the a/c and parking that theres always a decent puddle from the condensate line underneath. Maybe water finally found its way in. Not sure how that would make the tranny act but food for thought. Im sure if I went out and fired her up she would run fine for a few blocks. Hoping its something I can fix for a reasonable price.

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