Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 18
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like

    06 Magnum RT stalling - Me too I guess

    This just started last night. Very strange behaviour. Had just filled up so was thinking maybe the gas tank issue under the TSB but have never had the tank replaced and never any symptoms like this previously.

    I pull up to a light to turn left, I wait for the car in front to go and when it's my turn I begin to accelerate and turn left. Oil light comes on (didn't notice the chime because I had the music up loud), steering gets super stiff, no response from the gas peddle and I see the rpms are at 0. I coast to the side of the road, drop it in park and try to start it up. It turned over beautifully but wouldn't fire up. Tried a few times and after about 30 seconds it started fine. But now my idle is "not right" and I'm down on power. It seems to idle a little lower than usual...typically around 700rpm and now around 550-600. Not as smooth either. Acceleration feels like I've lost 50% hp. Like I'm driving a small 4 cyl engine. Definitely not what my hemi is like.

    Checked all fluids (oil only has about 1500kms on it), did the key dance, ran my scan tool and drove around with torque running on my phone. It stalls again and seems to happen worst when at a dead stop. If I wait 20-30 secs, shift into neutral and try to restart it'll fire up but idle still feels low and uneven.

    I've done a lot of digging and there doesn't seem to be any clear consensus on the stalling issues many have faced. Some say PCM, others say oil pressure sensor, some say front fuse box and FCM while others say bad grounding. It's in the shop right now and of COURSE they can't replicate the issue and it's still not throwing any codes. The only symptom I noticed that I have not seen addressed at all is my oil pressure. Monitoring it with my EVIC and torque at the same time it is definitely not right. By not right I mean the oil pressure is not moving in line with rpm. Usually around 20psi at idle and 40ish at hwy speeds. Usually if I increase engine rpm I'd see oil pressure rise and engine rpm drop oil pressure falls. Now though it'll move up and down through different ranges irrespective of the rpm and at times just freeze. Heading to the shop this morning, engine at 2000rpm oil pressure in both EVIC and torque reading "normal" around 40psi. As I pull into the lot and give it more gas it goes up to 45psi and locks there. I shut the car down and it keeps reading 45psi. Let it sit for a few min and still 45psi. Start it back up and rev it a few times and let it idle...still 45psi. Then just dropped to 21 without any other action on my part.

    Every instinct is telling me this is a faulty oil pressure sensor or something with its signal. If the PCM was going bad I don't think the pressure would just sit at one point like that. If the sensor is bad though it could send a consistent signal (voltage I assume) which the PCM would read as a certain pressure and only when the sensor starts sending another value would the PCM read that as a pressure change. I'm THINKING if the sensor stops sending ANY value the PCM might kill the engine thinking it's lost all oil pressure but I'm really not sure.

    I def can't go throwing money at this and I need to be very strategic with my shop time. I HATE the idea that I'm going to have to rent a car just so I can get to work tomorrow.

    Any ideas? Any thoughts on what I noticed about the oil pressure readings?
    |
    Thanks.



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Killeen, Texas
    Posts
    36
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just recently had a similar stalling issue with my 05 Magnum R/T, after speaking with Stu (Owner of Inertia Motorsports) explained my issues as my car was throwing u0100 and p0700 codes. Well, I too scoured the forum for possible reasons why the stalling was happening, well here's what I did: (Hold your hat on tight: This is is 'bout to get real...)

    1. Found small trans leak from the harness connector at the transmission: replaced connector: no change

    2. Wanted to service transmission and install my B&M trans pan, so went all out and bought a new Sonnax valve body, new connector plate, filter etc. ensured all levels are on point: no change, no change

    3. Took my car back to the stock tune: no change now the car will only restart after doing a hard reset on the PCM. Now its starting to stall at idle while in garage...arrrgh

    4. Checked wiring, grounds, TIPM, Front body control module, rear fuse box for any defects, upgraded grounds for battery and starter: no change

    5. Ordered new PCM from Solo Auto in Florida (awesome company btw); well I figured let's replace every prime sensor while I wait for the arrival of my new PCM (oil temp and pressure, ait, crank, camshaft, etc.) Yep...no change with new PCM installed

    6. I know you mentioned that you didn't want to throw parts at your ride, so let's cut it here, but...even replaced battery and alternator...car was in the shop undergoing paint and body mods for about 2yrs, heck this joker ran for 4 months flawlessly once I got it back before the stalling game started , SO.....

    Reached out to Stu (Owner of Inertia Motorsports...awesome guy, cant say enough good about him) and my friend Hemmisary, whom I talked at length with (equally awesome btw) he gave me links to the dealer level maintenance manuals, so checked and rechecked all my work and called on Stu one more time.... he suggested map sensor and o2 sensors , first do the map sensor, if stalling persists, then o2s, well the map sensor helped immediately drivability improves but still stalling intermittently...mostly in mornings. Replaced all o2's and now its it's back running like new. So, my ordeal can be your model reference: my issue was a failing map, o2s and PCM, all other work.....chalked up to upgrades.,,,lol. Hopefully this helps....respectfully James aka Drknyt67
    Thanks 2005rtmag thanked for this post
    Likes FORKLIFT352 liked this post
    Dislikes Hemi RT disliked this post

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    Killeen, Texas
    Posts
    36
    Post Thanks / Like
    Forget to mention....map sensor replacement immediately here comes codes pointing me to o2 sensor bank 1, sensor 2 as well as a code for bank 2, sensor 2 o2 sensor, so did all 4 anyways (both upstream and downstream sensors) with the ntk brand o2 sensors, put my tune back and its running well again. PM me if you need any additional advice or assistance....your brother in this Brotherhood of Mopar Muscle , James

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    11
    Post Thanks / Like
    When mine first did this the cure was changing the spark plugs.

    Sent from my SM-N950U1 using Tapatalk
    Likes FORKLIFT352 liked this post

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    It's been an interesting investigation. Found a crack in the flex pipe on the passenger side. It was throwing off the rear O2 sensor so once the flex pipe was replaced the acceleration returned. Oil pressure was still not reading right. Wasn't until 4PM that the shop was able to replicate all I'd been seeing. they saw the odd pressure readings which were not duplicated with a manual gauge. Idle was still weird...low and rougher than usual. Luckily it finally began to stall on them while they had it out on a test run doing data logging. They found the bottom 20% of the TB position was sending very strange values and very glitchy. It would go from 15% to 0% without even touching the gas. Put in a spare TB and it went away and idle returned. We figure its the position sensor resistor tracks. I've got a replacement on the way so hoping that fixes that up for good. Plugs have already been done and rechecked. I had them replace the oil pressure sensor too and that seemed to fix it.

    Seemed to until this morning. The week has been good. No issues and all seemed back to normal. Pulled into the parking lot at work this morning and the CEL came on. Did the key dance and scanned with torque. Both came up with P0522. Cleared the code and it came back immediately once the engine was restarted. Monitoring the oil pressure with EVIC and torque and they both show the same messed up readings I saw before. Pressure doesn't follow rpm. Can be running at 2000 rpm and 370kpa. Take my foot off the gas and coast down to 1000 rpm and still reads 370kpa. Rev it and stays at 370kpa and then suddenly jumps to 380 and begins to move up and down adn rpm increases or decreases. At idle it'll go down to 170kpa and then just seem to pause. Everything again looks to be an intermittent value from the pressure sensor. Stopped at the shop again on the way home today and confirmed they did use a generic aftermarket sensor so I'm having them put in a genuine mopar one for me. I'm 100% certain there isn't actually any oil pressure problem so at least I'm not worried about damage. I just can't afford to have it stall on me, especially if I'm in stop+go traffic on the highway.

    I'm going to go over it with a fine toothed comb tomorrow. I'm going to check all the grounds and hopefully, if I can get the connector off the pressure sensor, check it too. If I'd been chasing gremlins for a while I'd be thinking electrical issue but it has been so good for the 245k I've put on him that I just don't think so. Everything is telling me it's just wear and tear and parts that need to be replaced. MAF and O2 sensors are on the list but I have to get this oil pressure issue sorted out first.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just to update things have been great since my last post. Until last week that is. I'm 99.9% certain I am now affected by the fuel tank issue. My magnum will now stall ever 30 seconds after filling. Stalled 3 times on the way home and it was a less than 1km drive. I'm not overfilling either. Tank was on empty and I only put in 50L...took me to the 7/8ths mark on the fuel gauge. Starts up easy enough but it's pretty scary to be driving at 80kph and have the car suddenly die with NO WHERE to go or anywhere for other drivers to go to avoid me until I get it fired back up.

    YEARS ago I got a letter from FCA Canada telling me there is a recall for the airbag and tank but due to low inventory they could not do the work and they would let me know when the parts were available. I've since called FCA directly and they always tell me "we're sorry but the parts needed are not currently available. Leave us your contact information and we will let you know when they are available.". I've utterly given up on FCA (one of the reasons I REFUSE to buy anything new from them) and I am 100% convinced they do not care if one of their cars stalls and someone dies because of it.

    So...with that said is there ANY repair option other than full tank replacement? I'm hearing upwards of $1500 to replace the tank and that is about $1200 out of my budget. lol I'll do it myself if I can get the parts cheaply enough and if it's even something that is possible in a driveway.

    Any ideas? Anyone have any info on how I could force FCA to get their heads out of their backsides and actually stand behind their recall notices?

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well...good news. Once the fuel level dropped below the FULL mark (about halfway to the 7/8ths level) all stalling stopped. I stopped at the dealership on the way home from work and got a SUPER good service manager who honestly worked with me. he showed me the official recall notice and it basically said if the customer reports the symptoms I was reporting to just go and replace the tank without further questions. The KEY here was to make it VERY clear that this issue happens ONLY after filling up, EVERY time after filling up, and has been getting worse. Once they had that info it was only a matter of them ordering the tank. Once it's in we will book a day to do the work and the MOST it'll cost me is a days rental charge for a rental car. I'm ok with that. Gotta admit that for a car with close to 250k kms and 13 years old they definitely stepped up and really didn't fight me too much.

    Lesson learned here? When you get a letter from FCA/FCC don't waste your time calling them. Just go straight to the dealer and get it taken care of.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Quinlan, Texas
    Posts
    1,516
    Post Thanks / Like
    Be sure and tell them to be carefull when swapping the fuel pump assembly into the new tank- they screwed up mine to the point that they had to replace mine with new(fuel gauge stopped working, after two attempts at fixing they replaced it all.).
    2005 MAGNUM R/T
    JBA headers, Blastin Bobs 9db pipes,, Stack Performance strut brace, Stack performance chubby sway bars ,SRT springs ,Bilstein struts & shocks, Getrag 3.91,, Cams solid rear cradle bushings, Blue Tops, BT Catch Can. Other BT goodies.
    2012 Challenger 392 SRT (Wife)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    I had the tank replaced in my 05 R/T and when I went to fill it up it wouldn't take fuel. Kept shutting off and backwashing gas out of the filler neck. Turns out the replacement tank was bad so they replaced it again. This time all is good.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    76
    Post Thanks / Like
    Well it's been 2 weeks now with the new tank and all in all things are good. No more stalling and everything runs perfectly. Now that is.

    I've had a consistent issue since I got my Magnum in 09 that any time the battery is disconnected for more than 1 minute my steering wheel controls and horn stop working. 99% of the time it all comes back on it's own within a few days. Not this time though. However, after doing some fiddling around I figured out how to reset the steering wheel controls. not at all unlike resetting the front auto-power windows. It's good to have my EVIC back.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Illinois
    Posts
    68
    Post Thanks / Like
    Stealership will replace for nothing just make sure you let them know you know about the free replacement. I had to do this recently and now it is great before getting new tank it died for a min after every fill up...the problem is the float that closes off the tank gets stuck open then the fuel goes into the vapor canister and causes stalling and sputtering...
    ** 2006 300C SRT8 ** 426 fully forged Stroker 500 RWHP **Comp custom ground cam huge **4" 1 pc Driveshaft shop DS **Wavetrac 3.55 Diff **Paramount axles**Builder Bill Trans ** Viper 2900 Stall **BC Racing Coilovers **Drakes Strut Brace FT **Mopar Strut Brace R **Injen Powerflow CAI **Underdrive Pulley **Brembo 4 piston all around **American Racing SS Headers **American Racing SS catless mids **Corsa catback system **Professional Dyno Tune **BWoody sway bar links **Mishimoto Radiator ** Mishimoto/HPS Red silicone hoses **BBK 90mm TB **Ported Heads & Intake ground to match TB **

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    122
    Post Thanks / Like
    Thanks for all the info here, guys! I've had the exact same problem come up 3 times in the last several months. Just called the dealership and they said "yeah, we're aware of the issue. Bring it in and we'll replace the tank". No charge. Easy!

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T: K&N CAI, SRT headers, Magnaflow 3" cat-back, 180 degree t-stat, Diablo Trinity T1000, 300 SRT rims.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    DC Area
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Just had mine replaced last week after it stalled twice on fill up in the past 1000 miles.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Posts
    202
    Post Thanks / Like
    Guys, this sounds like a fairly common issue, especially with the TSB and dealerships obligated to replace the fuel tank for free. My question is can this happen spontaneously at any time, or is it a flaw in only some fuel tanks? I have all this info and TSB saved for future reference, but my '05 RT AWD has never had this problem. Should I be concerned it could happen at any time? I hesitate to bring the car in and get this work done only to have the dealership mess up something else. It always seems to happen!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    SF Bay Area
    Posts
    122
    Post Thanks / Like
    I've only owned my 06 RT for a year, but mine did it once about 6 months ago then 3 times within the last 6 weeks.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Share This Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •