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  1. #31
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    Another thing to add, cylinder deactivation (MDS) doesn't kick in at idle, only when driving. On my magnum i noticed it only kicks in at about 25mph and up with light throttle.



  2. #32
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    Another scary but pretty common problem is wiped Camshaft lobe. Which will cause misfiring. If you're you done checking ignition things, pull valve covers crank the engine and look for rocker arms that have barely any movement as shown in this video.


  3. #33
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    Also do a compression test on all cylinders, burnt valves and scored cylinder walls are also possibility. But if there is a wiped camshaft lobe it will still show good compression on that cylinder, only way to check is to pull valve covers.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Hi. Welcome to Magnum ownership. Congrats on choosing the 5.7. I am the original owner of my RT and I loved it enough to completely rebuild the engine after the dreaded dropped valve seat happened this past winter. Other than that major problem, over 11 years, I had the broken plastic piece in the shifter problem, 2 Takata airbag recalls, gas tank replacement under lifetime warranty ( stalled after filling up completely), front end rattles fixed by various (Moog) part replacements, and tons of smiles per miles.
    I Hear You Talking... I'm So Jealous.... Lol.... Wondering When I get To Enjoy My Ride Like Ya'll, Trouble Free.. SmH

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    The cylinders that get deactivated during MDS operation are 1 and 7 ( the outside ones) on the driver's side, and 4 and 6 ( the inside ones) on the passenger side.

    So it seems that #6 coil controls one of the MDS cylinders. That doesn't make sense to me as: at idle, it should be shut off and therefore not causing an idle change. Are you sure that it's the correct coil for #6? Or a different one because of the cross wire system. Any other members thoughts?
    Yea That Doesn't Make Sense At All To Me Either.

    But, I STRONGLY DO NOT Believe That I Have a Misfire As The Guy Tried To Make Me Believe... I Know What A Misfire Feels Like, I Have It In My Impala And My 300M Special, You Can Just Feel The Misfire. But This Issue That I'm Describing Is Hard For Me To Believe is a Misfire. What Kind Of Misfire Only Shows Up Between 1500-2000 RPM? Plus, It Doesn't "Feel" Like A Misfire, It Feels More Like A Gear Teeth Slipping/Missing It's Connection.....

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    2 things to mention because of the mileage:

    1) Unless you have receipts for a recent service, I would change all 16 plugs with the OEM spec, and perhaps the wires after you determine the root cause.
    As I Mentioned Before (Or Hope I Did), The Previous Owners Took Really Poor/Bad Car Of The Car, When I Changed The Engine Oil, It Was Very Dark And Dirty (Meaning It Hasn't Been Changed Or Even Checked In Quite A While) And Very Low, I Think I Got Out Like Half Of What I Had To Put Back in, In Order To get it To Show Up On The Oil Dipstick Gauge (I Put A Whole 2 Gallons/10 Liters Before It Was able To Barely Come Halfway On The "Min & Max" Line Mark On The Dipstick). Plus, The Oil Dipstick Itself Was Missing, They Just Stuck A Wrong "AnyHow" Dipstick in There. So I had To Buy A New Oil Dipstick Before I Even Changed the Oil.

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    2) For the transmission, I would do what was mentioned previously, fluid and filter change. I read about the solenoids on the transmission becoming lazy shifting gears because of a dirty filter. (fluid restriction).

    Cheers,
    Well, Changing The Trans-fluid, That Would Be My Next Try And Luck Thing To Do.
    But My Problem is I Can't Find The Transmission Filter. I Usually Get All (Almost All) My Autoparts Online, But, I Can't Seem To Find The Transmission Filter For My 5.7 Engine Anywhere... What Am I Doing Wrong?...... Any Part Numbers For it To Use As a Search ?? Or Is This One of Those "Dealers (Erh-Ehm "STealers") Only" Part??
    Another Option Would Be A Local Part Store, But, Since This is a "Mopar" That I'm Talking About Here, I'm Sure Their Prices Would Be More Than I'll Want To "Willingly" Pay.

    So Where/How do You Guys get Your Trans-Filter?

  5. #35
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    You put two gallons of engine oil in it?


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  6. #36
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    Mar 2017
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    We may have found part of the problem. They only take 7qts of oil lol.

    Get the correct dipstick and drop some oil out of it. I've seen too much oil do some crazy things to an engine. (And 3 quarts is waaaay too much)

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk

  7. #37
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    Yes, 7 quarts of engine oil, and be sure that the grade is correct. Mine takes 5W/20 (I use conventional). An improper grade can mess up the MDS.

    For the Trans filter and gasket, I got Mopar parts. Filter is 52108325AA for the NAG1 transmission, and pan gasket is 52108332AA .

    I would double check these part numbers for your year and transmission. (By the way, you should be able to go to a Dodge dealer and with your VIN, have them print out your build sheet. I did this and it has been very helpful over the years to verify parts/ options/ colors, etc.)
    Dana

    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (engine rebuilt and cammed at 102K 02/18 due to dropped valve seat flaw)
    2010 Camaro SS
    (Transformers Edition)

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by punisher69 View Post
    We may have found part of the problem. They only take 7qts of oil lol.

    Get the correct dipstick and drop some oil out of it. I've seen too much oil do some crazy things to an engine. (And 3 quarts is waaaay too much)

    Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
    I Know Right, Sounds Crazy Right...

    But, Note: It Was Already Having This Problem Before I Even Changed The Oil, So I Wouldn't think Too Much Oil Is The Cause.. Unless There Is Something Else Causing The Problem Inside The Engine... But, I Would Like to Thinks That I Bought The Right Oil Dipstick... At Least It Looks Right To Me.. Is this not The Part# To The Dipstick 4792872AC?, That's The One That I Bought.
    If I Have The Right Dipstick, Dumping Oil Out Would Be A Suicide, Because As It is Now, The Dipstick barely Gauges The Oil.
    Also, I Think I Might've Gave A Wrong Quantity Earlier, But, I Meant 10 Quarts (9.4L) i.e 2 Of Those 5 Quart Oil Gallons.

  9. #39
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    The 5.7 motor takes 7 quarts including the filter. But I don't think oil has anything to do with your issue. Make sure it's 5/20.

    I don't think the throttle body is either. but pull the TB off and clean it because it'd easy to do.

    Clean ground connections in the front and rear.

    I'd think a dealers star scan could figure it out???
    Adaptive Craving Control-by Hal9000 modification strictly prohibited
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  10. #40
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    I would doubt it's in the fuel/air system. but more likely in the ignition system. Do you have a system like the Diablo Predator to data log?

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hal'sMag View Post
    I would doubt it's in the fuel/air system. but more likely in the ignition system. Do you have a system like the Diablo Predator to data log?
    No, I Have No Idea How Those Tunning/Diablo Things Work Or Who I Can Talk To Around Here That Knows About It...... But, You Seem To Have Alot Of Faith In Them Though?? Aren't Those Diablo's And Tunner Stuff Primarily Used For Performance And Horsepower Increase??

    But, On A Curious Note, How Would It Help Me? Can It Give Me Live Info In The Car Or Help Me Diagnose My Gear Issue?

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC-81 View Post
    Yes, 7 quarts of engine oil, and be sure that the grade is correct. Mine takes 5W/20 (I use conventional). An improper grade can mess up the MDS.

    For the Trans filter and gasket, I got Mopar parts. Filter is 52108325AA for the NAG1 transmission, and pan gasket is 52108332AA .

    I would double check these part numbers for your year and transmission. (By the way, you should be able to go to a Dodge dealer and with your VIN, have them print out your build sheet. I did this and it has been very helpful over the years to verify parts/ options/ colors, etc.)
    What Filter Brand Should I Put My Money On?
    I See, URO, ATP, Premium Brand e.t.c.
    What Came Stock? And What's Best For Me For Replacement?

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoparAddict View Post
    What Filter Brand Should I Put My Money On?
    I See, URO, ATP, Premium Brand e.t.c.
    What Came Stock? And What's Best For Me For Replacement?
    I use the stock Mopar oil filter (05281090) or MO-090 . I can get one at Walmart for a little over $6.

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