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  1. #1
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    LMI True V2 CAI Install Guide

    In an effort to save a few trees, I have compiled a quick "how-to" for the install of the LMI True V2 CAI on any LX/LC vehicle from 2005-present with 5.7 / 6.1 Hemi.

    Note: This install is more complex than your avg. install and will require a small modification to the lower air inlet opening to allow for the systems components to properly fit. There are two distinct air inlet opening shapes. 2005-2010 is round. 2011 - present is triangle shaped. Examples of the modifications for either opening will be shown in this how-to guide

    First thing to do is to take inventory:

    3 - 4" T-bolt clamps
    1 - 3.5" T-bolt clamp
    1 - S&B Filter
    1 - 4" straight silicon coupler
    1 - 3.5" - 4" 90* silicon reducer
    1 - 4" worm clamp
    1 - 18" IAT extension harness (black plugs 05-10 non-vvt / grey for 10 - up vvt motors)
    1 - Oil breather filter
    1 - LMI Decal
    1 - 4" CF tube with 90* bend (upper tube)
    1 - 4" CF tube with 45* bend (lower tube)
    2 - black zip ties
    1 - black plastic edging material





    Next step is to begin removal of OEM air box:

    Standard 5.7 OEM air box set up (6.1 does not have plastic engine cover but air box is similar in design and removal)



    Remove plastic engine cover by simply pulling up on both sides (this step not required for 6.1 cars without cover)




    Remove 10mm bolt holding OEM box to radiator support:





    Remove single clamp at throttle body:





    Unplug throttle body by sliding red clip back on plug then pressing tab in while pulling plug off:





    Unplug IAT sensor in the same fashion as the throttle body:
    NOTE: LEAVE IAT SENSOR IN THE OEM TUBE AT THIS TIME!!!!





    Remove entire OEM air box as one complete unit:




    OEM air box removed. This is the time to place the OEM air box on the bench and remove the IAT sensor by carefully pulling on the sensor while giving it a slight counter-clockwise twist. Be VERY careful not to break the tip of the sensor. Once removed, put the IAT sensor aside in a safe place for installation in later steps.





    Next step is making the modifications to the air inlet opening:

    Early Gen I cars (2005-2010)

    This is the hole you'll need to enlarge. Use a 4.25" hole saw that you can pick up at any hardware store and a piece of plywood bolted under the hole to help keep the saw from wandering. You'll want a drill with some power. Use a few drops of oil from time to time and let the saw do the work. A magnet can be used to clean up the heaviest of the metal filings. It's a little messy, and it is recommended to drape a big damp towel around the area to catch the filings and make clean up a much easier. A dremel tool works great for cleaning up the sharp edge. The use of some clear spray paint will add protection to the freshly cut metal to discourage any future metal issue. Install the plastic edging material supplied as shown below.





    Later Gen II & III vehicles (2011 - present)

    Mark air inlet hole





    Cut notch in air inlet. (This can be done in many ways. Whatever is at your disposal that will make a clean/symetrical cut)





    Be sure to notch the lower plastic baffle that is attached just under the area to be notched. It is held in place with standard fenderwell push pins.





    Install supplied edging material (this step will be the most frustrating step and requires a little heat to soften the material and activate the adhesive inside the material. a little patience goes a long way!)





    Next - Jack the front of the vehicle up to gain access to the front portion of the lower belly pan:

    Remove lower fascia belly pan to access fender well area.



    Note: It can be advantageous for some to remove the drivers side wheel and pull back the inner plastic fender liner to gain even better access to the area where the filter will reside on the intial install. The view would be as seen below




    Next step is the assembly/installation of LMI True V2 CAI:

    Begin by assembling the lower tube into the filter on the bench. Then install this piece in from the bottom of the modified air inlet opening.







    Once the tube is installed, put the 4" worm clamp supplied around the tube to temporarily hold it in place. You can also install the supplied 4" straight silicon coupler at this time.





    Next, install (2) of the (3) 4" T-bolt clamps that are supplied in the kit, around the silicon coupler. Leave clamps loose at this time for later adjustments.





    Next, install the 90* 3.5" - 4" silicon elbow onto the throttlebody. Leave clamps lose for later adjustments.





    Next, install top 90* carbon tube to connect the silicon elbow and the down tube previously installed.





    Make necessary adjustments with the tubes in order to get the upper tube to sit level with the radiator support and tighten clamps. The 4" worm clamp used initially to hold the lower tube in place will continue to be utilized as a means to level the upper tube and to keep the lower tube from migrating downward DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CLAMPS ON THE CF TUBES. THINK "SNUG". OVER TIGHTENING CLAMPS CAN RESULT IN DEFORMATION OF TUBES OVER TIME.







    Next install IAT sensor into grommet as shown below and install the IAT extension harness that is supplied in the kit. Use the supplied black zip ties to secure the IAT extension harness to the clamp at the throttle body and the other zip tie will go through the plastic ring attached to the underside of the tube. (note the placement of the 4" worm clamp. This is the manner described in the previous step)



    Finally, install the breather filter to the fitting coming off the oil fill neck. There are multiple ways to do this and you can use your creativity. I recommend with early Gen I cars (2005 - 2010) to install the breather directly onto the filler neck fitting



    For later Gen II & III cars (2011 - present) install by trimming off a 1.5" peice of the OEM breather tube and using it as a "coupler" to attach the breather filter in a similar manner as shown below. You will have to remove the small worm clamp on the breather filters when connectiong in this manner.



    Double check all clamps and fitting. Reinstall the lower belly pan and/or the inner fender well liner if removed. Place front end of car back onto the ground. Reinstall plastic engine cover (if equipped) and go for a drive!!!!!
    Last edited by legmaker; 12-03-2016 at 09:56 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Nov 2014
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    I have this intake on my 12 RT and was wondering if you had a part number for the filter?

  3. #3
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    I stock them. They are made to my specs. Filter runs 65 shipped.

  4. #4
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    Sep 2013
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    I put mine on my wifes 12' Charger RT. Overall its a sweet product. The IAT extension could use another inch and the breather filter is really not a perk since it doesn't fit these intakes,pretty sure that filter can be gotten with a 1" inlet. I wanted to show the blockoff I made to make the install look "cleaner". Love the looks and the growl! The blockoff is just some black circle track side skirting that is sandwiched between the sheetmetal and lower plastic using the original push pins.

    Thanks agoristmike thanked for this post
    Likes agoristmike liked this post

  5. #5
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    Can someone enlighten me on one little bit. I recall reading that an intake that was farther away from the TB could actually hurt performance, due to the extended intake tube distance and the time it takes for the car to respond. So wouldn't a more "run of the mill" setup be more beneficial? I know that the heat that builds up above the motor can harm intake performance, but doesn't the distance from the True CAI do the same?

    Thanks!

    Oldest: 2006 Daytona R/T #2040 w/ goodies
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  6. #6
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    that only comes into play if the tubing utilized is too small. it would be like trying to drink your soda with a small coffee straw vs. a regular straw. there is a reason why my systems are made from 4" tubing. The kits utilizing 3" or 3.5" tubing are restrictive.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the reply! I'm trying to debating between the hammer and this one. Maryland speed has a sweet deal with the hammer which includes the inTune. Which one is better?

  8. #8
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    If the car is a daily driver and you want something that is easy to install and service the filter, the Hammer is a very good choice. The sound alone from the Hammer is worth the cost.

  9. #9
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    What happened to the Pictures ? im getting ready to install an LMI V2 and i was going to refer to this page and the pictures are gone...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by My Hemi View Post
    What happened to the Pictures ? im getting ready to install an LMI V2 and i was going to refer to this page and the pictures are gone...
    Photobucket faces backlash for deleting images and introducing 'ransom' fee
    Charger Scat Pack


  11. #11
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    I have photbucket whats this mean?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by My Hemi View Post
    I have photbucket whats this mean?
    Read the link


    Sent from my iPhone using Scat Pack Forums

  13. #13
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    means if you you used photobucket to post pictures you are screwed unless you pay up , i "think" someone posted that it was $399 a year, F that. You can get your pictures back from them to download.

    See below where a picture of my car used to be.

    PB ET 14.02 at CamaroFest 5 totally stock
    PB RT Sportsman tree .003 at Challengerfest 3, PB RT pro tree .019 at MSHS VMP 5/16
    PB 0-60 3.24 MIR Raceway Drag Radials 6/18

    PB 0-60 4.40 Street Tires on the street Calabash 10/14

    PB 60' 1.472 @ CF9 4/18
    PB ET 1/8 6.911 @ CF9 4/18
    PB MPH 1/8 100.17 @ Atco 11/18
    PB ET 10.857 @ CF9 4/18

    PB MPH 127.29 @ Atco 11/18
    Likes My Hemi liked this post

  14. #14
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    yep...... i have to redo all of my install guides because Photobucket got greedy and will not let a 3rd party host pictures. Photobucket can go to hell...... Bad enough their site has been gotten slower and slower over the past couple years with advertising, now they want to charge you to post pictures anywhere. Sad....

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by legmaker View Post
    yep...... i have to redo all of my install guides because Photobucket got greedy and will not let a 3rd party host pictures. Photobucket can go to hell...... Bad enough their site has been gotten slower and slower over the past couple years with advertising, now they want to charge you to post pictures anywhere. Sad....
    Never knew this...hopefully you can get the pictures back so you can post them.

    Sent from my SM-G950U using Scat Pack Forums mobile app
    2006 BB 300 SRT8.,LMI CAI,BT catch can, dc sport top carbon steel strut tower bar, challanger motor mounts,alpine touch screen, Custom magnaflow resonators with 4 inch tips,Blue Tops,91 CAI tune, 09 RT axles,17x9 cobras with MT drag radials, nitrous outlet plate,nitrous outlet solenoids, 100 shot DTP tuned, 11.31 at 120 mph,AJ hemituner TCM, just installed Paramount 3200 stall, 3.06 Getrag, DSS 2 piece driveshaft.drag set up.

    89 iroc, 06 MSRT8
    91 Z28
    98 GMC suburban,04 Trailblazer,03 Ford Excursion
    2006 MSRT-8 ...GONE....

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